Candy timeline (U.S.) About sugar & sweeteners early American candy (Colonial-Civil War eras) modern American candy (Post Civil War-1920s) Candy packaging |
almonds brittle Buckeye candy candy canes candy corn chocolate & white chocolate chocolate truffles conversation hearts cotton candy divinity dolly mixtures Easter chocolate fondant fudge halva icing & frosting |
jelly beans liquorice lollipops marmalade marshmallows marzipan mints opera fudge & creams Pop Rocks pralines salt water taffy sugar plums & comfits sweetmeats toffee, taffy, butterscotch & caramels toffee apples (aka taffy apples, caramel apples) Valentine's Day candies | Have questions? Ask! |
About candy
While we Americans tend to think of candy in terms of supermarket and convenience stores displays, this sweet culinary family
offers a much broader and complicated lineage. Food historians propose the first sweets were consumed as a sort of
medical treatment for digestive troubles. Today's cough drops and peppermint sticks descend from this tradition. As time and technology progressed,
so did the art of confectionery. The English word "candy" derives from Arabic "qandi," meaning something made with sugar.
Indeed, the first candies were sugar coated nuts, seeds and fruits. Conserves and preserves (fruit preserved in sugar) eventually
became it's own type of food.
"All of the peoples of antiquity made sweetmeats of honey before they had sugar: the Chinese, the
Indians, the people of the Middle East, the Egyptians and then the Greeks and Romas used it coat
fruits, flowers, and the seeds or stems of plants, to preserve them for use as an ingredient in the
kind of confectionery still made in those countries today. Confectioner and preserves featured in
the most sumptuous of Athenian banquets, and were an ornament to Roman feasts at the time of
the Satyricon, but it seems that after that the barbarian invasions Europe forgot them for a while,
except at certain wealthy courts were Eastern products were eaten...At the height of the Middle
Ages sweetmeats reappeared, on the tables of the wealthy at first...In fact the confectionery of the
time began as a marriage of spices and sugar, and was intended to have a therapeutic or at least
preventative function, as an aid to digestive troubles due to the excessive intake of food which
was neither very fresh nor very well balanced...guests were in the habit of carrying these
sweetmeats to their rooms to be taken at night. They were contained in little comfit-boxes or
drageoirs...."
"Candy...The ancient Egyptians preserved nuts and fruits with honey, and by the Middle Ages
physicians had learned how to mask the bad taste of their medicines with sweetness, a practice
still widespread. Boiled "sugar plums were
known in the seventeenth-century England and soon were to appear in the American colonies
where maple-syrup candy was popular in the North and benne-seed [sesame seed] confections
were just as tempting in the South. In New Amersterdam one could enjoy "marchpane," or
"marzipan," which is very old decorative candy made from almonds ground into a sweet paste.
While the British called such confections, "sweetmeats," Americans came to call "candy," from
the Arabic qandi, "made of sugar," although one finds "candy" in English as early as the fifteenth
century...Caramels were known in the early eighteenth century and lollipops by the 1780s..."Hard candies" made from lemon or peppermint
flavors were popular in the early nineteenth century...A significant moment in candy history occured
at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, where "French-style" candies with rich cream centers
were first displayed...But it was the discovery of milk chocolate in Switzerland in 1875 that made
the American candy bar such a phenomenon of the late nineteenth century."
Recommended reading
Why are confections sometimes called "sweetmeats" in England? Laura Mason, British
confectionery history expert, explains:
"The anamolies in our own language are due to the origin of sweets or sweeties...as diminutives
of sweetmeat. This word, still not entirely obsolete, was in common use for over 400 years to the
end of the nineteenth century. The suffix-meat has an archaic meaning of food in the widest sense
(surviving in the phrase 'meat and drink'), so sweetmeat simply means a sweet food...To the
inhabitants of Tudor and Stuart England, sweetmeats were sugary foods in general, including
pieces of flavoured candy and sugar-covered nuts and spices, products of medieval theories on the
medicinal value of sugar, as well as dishes which used sugar as one ingredient amongst many, for
structure, sweetness and an air of the exotic...Medieval feasts had provided several roles for
sweetmeats."
The Art of Confectionery, Ivan Day
"Containers are essential; they help maintain low humidity, hold sweets together, and protect them during transport. Before the nineteenth century, options were
limited. Fruit in syrup was mostly stored in earthenware gallipots, and small sugar confections and pastes in oblong or round boxes made of thin sheets of
matchwood...'Jar glasses' (small, cylindrical glass containers) were in use by the seventeeenth century but they are rarely mentioned. They were expensive,
limited to wealthy households or enterprises. Glass jars probably did not become common until the late eighteenth century when, though used as storage containers,
their emphasis had switched to a means of display. They include straight jars presumably for conserves or jams, small, stemmed glasses for jellies and larger ones
with lids for sweets and comfits. Tall straight-sided and later ones with lids are also shown. Glass was used more and more to show off the bright colours and
clarity of newly fashionable, transparent acid and fruit drops to brilliant advantage in the 1830s and '40s...Another imporant innovation, from the 1850s onwards,
was the airtight tin--especially for toffee. Functional yet decorative, these became coveted in their own right. Commemorative versions were produced for national
events, or the patterns designed so that a set of tins with themed pictures was avaialble. Transparent wrapping is a product of our own age. Cellophane was
introduced in the 1920s and plastics followed later."
"Wrappers, although treated as so much waste paper, account for much of the colour perceived in confectionery by the modern observer. This is a phenonemnon of
the last hundred years. Before, a scrap of paper wrapped round a sugar stick or twisted into a cone (the origin of the triangular paper bag) was the most one could
expect when buying sweets in the street. These wrappers were themselves waste paper. Henry Mayhew recorded how one street-seller of sweet stuff bought
paper from stationers or secondhand book shops, including the Acts of Parliament, 'a pile of these a foot or more deep, lay on the shelf. They are used to wrap
rock &c. sold.' Smarter confectioners used paper wrappers with cut or fringed ends twisted around sweets. A French custom of making these up as packets of
bonbons for presents at New Year is metioned by Jarrin. The London confectionery Tom Smith is said to have commercialized the idea in Britain. His bonbons
consisted of several sweets wrapped together in tissue paper, with mottoes enclosed. They were first introduced as a Christmas novelty in the late 1840s. Shortly
afterwards, Smith added a 'bang', evolving the modern Christmas Cracker. The theory is that the idea was provided by a spark leaping out of the fire one night.
However, exploding 'cracker bonbons' were apparently known some years earlier."
"Initially, chocolate was packed as unwrapped bars in wooden boxes with paper labels, displayed on the shop counter. Individual paper wrappers developed soon
afterwards. Gold printing and metal foils repeated this luxury message which gold leaf had given to sweets in earlier centuries. Designs used the latest images, and
graphics publicized the desirability of chocolate. Even more status was attached to special boxes, decroated with pcitures, lined with tissue and paper lace. As the
package, not the contents, occupied more and more of the foreground, so advertising has shifted almost entirely from the taste of confectioenry towards style by
association."
"Most companies concentrated on indivudally wrapped toffees as opposed to bulk tray toffee sold by weight. They were popular, kept well, and sold at a lower
price than chocolate while maintaining a luxurious image. This was done partly by advertising and packaging. Robert Opie examined the role of packaging,
especially tins, in marketing confectionery, and commented on toffee: 'splendid and glamorous tins abounded with bright colours and decorative patterns. The use of
a tin also enhanced the status of the toffees, making them a more acceptable gift in comparison with the prestigious box of chocolates'."
"...the Chinese claim to have been the first to make cane sugar, among their many other
inventions. The craft may have been practised from very ancient times in the region of
Ku-ouang-tong (Canton), but it seems more likely and more logical that they learned it from the
Indians. In
fact there is a clear statement to that effect in the Natural History of Su-king, of the
seventh century AD...Sugar cane, a giant grass, is native to India and in particular the Ganges
delta...Indian tradition--and tradition often bears out scientific theories--places the origin of sugar
cane a very long way back. According to legend, the ancestors of Buddha came from the land of
sugar, or Gur, a name then given to Bengal. The Sanskrit epic of Ramanyana (c. 1200BC)
describes a banquet with tables laid with sweet things, syrup, canes to chew'...Seven centuries
later, when Darius made his foray in to the valley of the Indus, the Persians in their turn
discovered a reed that gives honey without the aid of bees' and brought it home with
them...Eventually invasions, conquests and trading caravans, most notably those of the Assyrians,
spread sugar cane all through the Middle East, from the Indus to the Black Sea, from the Sahara
to the Persian Gulf...It syrup, considered a spice even rarer and more expensive than any other,
was used in medicine by the Egyptians and Phoenicians even before the Greeks and Romans; it is
this pharmaceutical use that gives sugar cane its species name "officinarum."...Until modern
times...sugar was an expensive medicine to Europeans, or a luxury reserved for the rich and
powerful, a fabulous food brought from beyond the deserts by caravans than ended their journeys
in the ports of the eastern Mediterranean...The Arabs installed the first industrial' sugar refinery
on the island of Candia or Crete--its Arabic name, Quandi, meant crystalized sugar'--around the
year 1000."
"In medieval times the growing of sugar had gradually spread westwards. By the year 1000 it had
reached the Middle East and the coast of east Africa. Around 1500, sugar plantations were begin
in the new colonies, notably in the Canaries and the West Indies. Thus, from the sixteenth century
onwards, we can read first-hand descriptions by Europeans of how to grow the cane and how to
refine the sugar cane...Investment in the planting and manufacture of sugar continued unchecked
until, in the seventeenth century, the world market collapsed. The price of sugar dropped like a
stone. In the West Indies, around 1700, there were far too many sugar plantations and far foo
much sugar being produced...This low price was a good reason to experiment with sugar
confectionery, which had already become complicated, varied, multi-flavoured and much loved in
seventeenth-century Europe. The making of rum was another use for sugar, or rather for the
refuse and by-products of the sugar industry."
"...it would not be Columbus of the Spanish but rather the British who would succeed in realizing this [establishing sugar cane
in the New World] goal, and in spectacular fasion. British colonies established on Barbados in 1627 and on Jamaica in 1655 came to be
devoted almost exclusively to sugar production, with the requisite labor provided by slaves imported from Africa. For centuries sugar
had been made by pressing short lengths of sugarcane stalks through a roller mechanism until syrup was exuded. The syrup was then
evaporated by boiling--one, two, or several times depending on the degree of refinement desired--and pourd into loaf-shaped vessels
to cool and harden. During the cooling stage, 'the emerging 'raw sugar' [would leave] behind it molasses, or treacle, which
[could not] be crystallized further by conventional methods," but which could be consumed. Proving to be a great deal cheaper
than crystallized sugar, molasses was in fact consumed in vast quantities...In New England sugar appears in the records from
an early date...In the eighteenth century sugar was regularly advertised in Boston newspapers, and it was on sale in other
communities as diverse as coastal and mercantile Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and interior and agricultural Deerfield, Massachusetts...
Seventeenth-century immigrants to the colonies "were advised to defer their sugar purchases" until reaching their
destinations, because sugar would be cheaper there than it had been at home."
RECOMMENDED READING
SUGAR CONES & LOAVES
"Sugar finally came to the sixteenth- and seventeeth-century consumer in blocks or cones, in
varying degrees of refinement. This accounts for the elaborate directions for clarifying sugar, and
the reiterated instructions to searce (sift) or powder it. (Powdered sugar was only finely sifted
sugar, not confectioners' sugar). Block sugar also accounts for the strewing of scraped sugar that
made for a charming textural and taste contrast that we have all but forgotten.The presence of
sugar in so many of our meat recipes, almost in conjunction with fruits and spices...is part of our
heritage from medieval cooking, which, in turn, had come from the Arabs. It is virtually
impossible to give precise amounts of sugar It is virtually impossible to give precise amounts of
sugar required..."
"Large and prosperous households bought their white sugar in tall, conical loaves, from which
pieces were broken off with special iron sugar-cutters. Shaped something like very large heavy
pliers with sharp blades attached to the cutting sides, these cutters had to be strong and tough,
because the loaves were large, about 14 inches in diameter at the base, and 3 feet high [15th
century]...In those days, sugar was used with great care, and one loaf lasted a long time. The
weight would probably have been about 30 lb. Later, the weight of a loaf varied from 5 lb to 35
lb, according to the moulds used by any one refinery. A common size was 14 lb, but the finest
sugar from Madeira came in small loaves of only 3 or 4 lb in weight...Up till late Victorian times
household sugar remained very little changed and sugar loaves were still common and continued
so until well into the twentieth century..."
"Conical molded cakes of granualted sugar, wrapped in blue paper & tied, as customary for
maybe centuries in Europe, & in US in 18th - early 19th C. This one is from Belgium, but form is
the same. About 10"H x 4 3/4"diam...The blue paper wrapped around sugar loafs was re-used to
dye small linens a medium indigo blue...Sugar nippers were necessary because sugar came in hard
molded cones, with a heavy string or cord up through the long axis like a wick, but there so that
the sugar should be conveniently hung up, always wrapped in blue paper...Conical sugar molds of
pottery or wood were used by pouring hot sugar syrup into them and cooling them until solid.
They range from about 8' high to 16" high. These molds are very rare, especially those with some
intaglio decoration inside to make a pattern on the cone...Loaf or broken sugar-A bill of sale form
Daniel E. Baily, a grocer of Lynchberg, VA, dated 1839, lists two types of sugar sold to John G.
Merme (?). "Loaf sugar" and "Broken sugar," the latter cost half as much...Loaf was 20 cents a
pound, and broken it was only eleven cents a pound. For cooking, the broken would have been
more convenient by far...Perhaps the fear of adulturation...made people want the Loaf."
"Various kinds of sugar were available in the 18th century, with names indicating either the extent
of the processing which they had undergone or the manner of presentation for sale. It normally
came in a loaf', of a conical shape...Some of these terms are self-expalnatory, while others are
readily understood in the light of early methods of refining sugar. There were succinctly described
by the great Swedish naturalist Linnaeus [1741]...Here the coarse and unrefined raw sugar was
pulverized and boiled in water, diluted with lime-water, mixed with ox blood or egg white,
skimmed and poured into inverted cone-shaped moulds, perforated at the tip; from these a syrup
trickled down into a bottle; this was repeated, and then the mould was covered with a white,
dough-like French clay in Sweden, but it has to be imported.' What Linnaeus witnessed was sugar
refining...Lump sugar was just lumps broken off the loaf, whereas powdered sugar had been
grated from the loaf'"
"Colonial cooks used many grades and kinds of sweetening, both solid and liquid. Virtually all
were derived from sugarcane...At earliest settlement in America, sugar was used both medicinally
and to season dishes lightly. By the beginning of the nineteenth cnetury, it was called for in a
substantial number of recipes for baked goods, puddings, and pies...To supply this increasing
demand for sugar, the Caribbean islands and the American South became ever more involved in
growing canesugar and refinings its juice for export. A labor-intensive crop and process, the
production of sugar consumed the lives of many African slaves without whose unpaid work it
would not have been so profitable. The primary forms in which sugar was sold during the Colonial
period were white refined sugar in loaves; soft, brown sugar; and molasses. All sugar was boiled
out of the juice extracted from the crushed sugarcane. The juice was cooked until granules of
sugar began to appear in the thick molasses, whereupon it was packed in barrels. Molasses was
allowed to drain out, and the barrels were sent to the refiners or sold as raw, or muscavado,
sugar. Refining was another complicated process, and there were several refining methods used in
the Colonial era."
"...it would be useful to review the various grades of whole-sale sugar as they were designated in
Pennsylvania during the nineteenth century. The following list is taken from Hope's
Philadelphia Price-Current for October 5, 1807:
GRANULATED SUGAR
General overview of 19th century manufacturing processes:
"Granulated sugar. This very popular and strictly American style of sugar was first made and introduced about thirty years ago at the Boston Sugar Refinery. Although
extremely popular in the United States since its origin, it has become popular in England only withn a few years past. The apparatus at first consisted of a steam table
fifteen or twenty feet long and three to five feet wide, on which the moist sugar was, by an ingenious process or movement of wooden rakes, gradually worked the length of
the table, becoming thoroughly dried in so doing. Afterward it was separated by sieves of different grades or mesh, into coarse and fine, and barreled and sold accordingly.
This apparatus was superceded ten or twelve years since by a large cylinder of wood or iron, some four feet in diameter and fifteen to eighteen feet long, slightly
depressed at one end. The inner surface carries small projecting buckets, by which, as the cylinder revolves, the sugar, entering at the upper end, is lifted and poured
through the heated interior. The heat is supplied by a small steam cylinder running through the length and center of the large one, and the position of the buckets is such
as gradually to work the sugar throught the length of the cylinder, during which it becomes thoroughly dried. An arrangement of sieves, as before, completes the operation.
The upper one has the coarsest mesh, to retain the largest grains, which are run directly from it into barrels and branded "extra granulated." The sugar which falls throught
his first sieve drops into the next below, which has a mesh just fine enough to retain the grains next in size to those before mentioned, which are run into barrels and
designated as "medium granulated." The remaining sugar, too fine to be retained by either sieve, is packed in barrels under the name of "fine granulated." Powered sugar
is mostly manufactured from the coarsest granulated sugar, after it has been thoroughly cooled. The powdered articles, are mostly manufactured in smaller
establishments as a specialty. Other grades of sugar are obtained from the liquor or syrup which is thrown out by the centrifugul, in the process of separating the
crystallized sugar from the "mother liquid.""
MOLASSES
"Molasses...as sweetener made from refined sugar, including cane sugar, sugar beets, and even
sweet potatoes. The word is from the Portuguese 'melaco', derived from the Latin 'mel' for honey.
The first use of the word was in Nicholas Lichefield's 1582 translation of Lopez de Castanheda's
First Booke of the Histoire of the Discoverie and Conquest of the East Indias,
which described 'Melasus' as a 'certine kind of Sugar made of Palmes of Date trees'. Molasses
became the most common American sweetener in the eighteenth century because it was much
cheaper than sugar and was part of the triangular trade route that brought molasses to New
England to be made into rum, which was then shipped to West Africa to be traded for slaves, who
were in turn traded for molasses in the West Indies...By the end of the [19th] century
molasses vied with maple syrup and sugar as the sweetener of choice, but when sugar prices
dropped after World War I, both molasses and maple fell in popularity, so that today both are
used as sweeteners in confections only when their specific taste is desirable, as in Boston baked
beans."
"Molasses first came to America from the Caribbean. The British started sugarcane cultivation in
Barbados in 1646, and by the late 1670s there was a flourishing two-way sea trade between
Barbados and the American colony at Rhode Island. The colonists shiped agricultural and forest
products, such as pork, beef, butter, cider, barrel staves, and shingles, to the West Indies, and the
ships returned with cargoes of cotton wool, rum, molasses, and sugar. The large volume of sugar
and molasses going to Rhode Island could not be used there, so much of this cargo was resold in
Boston. The New England colonists used molasses not only as the primary sweetener in cooking
and baking but also as an ingredient in brewing birch beer and molasses beer and in distilling rum.
In the early 1700s rum made in New England became an essential element in a highly profitable
triangular trade across the Atlantic. The colonists exported rum to West Africa in trade for slaves;
the ships brought the slaves from Africa to the French West Indies, tranding them for more
molasses and sugar; these products were then shipped to New England to make more rum.
Because imporation of molasses to New England from the French West Indies seriously harmed
British farmers in the Caribbean, the British government passed the Molasses Act in 1733. This
law imposed a duty on "foreign" molasses or syrup imported into the American colonies or
plantations...The Molasses Act of 1733 and the Sugar Act of 1764 caused the price of moasses to
rise, leading to the use of less expensive maple sugar as a sweetener. When the cost of refined
sugar dropped at the end of the nineteenth cnetury...molsses lost its role as an important
sweetener in the American diet."
"Molasses, from the Latin word melaceres, meaning honey-like, is a thick dark syrup that is a
byproduct of sugar refining. It results wen sugar is crystallized out of sugar cane or sugar beet
juice. Molasses is sold for both human consumption, to be used in baking, and in the brewing of
ale and distilling of rum, and as an ingredient in animal feed. The pressing of cane to produce cane
juice and then boiling the juice until it crystallized was developed in India as early as 500B.C.
However, it was slow to move to the rest of the world. In the Middle Ages, Arab invaders
brought the process to Spain. A century or so later, Christopher Columbus brought sugar cane to
the West Indies."
"When cane sugar began to reach the colonists from the West Indies, it was for a long time far
too expensive for general use. Hence there was instead wide use of its cheaper by-product,
molasses. The abundance of cheap molasses created the profitable New England rum
industry."
Recommended reading:
Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History/Sidney W. Mintz
See also: treacle.
TREACLE
"The word treacle originally had nothing whatsoever to do with 'syrup'. Until as late as the nineteenth cnetury, it was used
with reference to antidotes for poison...It comes originally from the Greek phrase theriake antidotos, literally 'antidote to a wild
or venomous animal'. The adjective theriake came to be used on its own as a noun, and passed via latin and Old French (where it
acquired its l) into fourteenth-century English. its ingredients varied from apothecary to apothecary, but usually included,
presumable on homoeopathic grounds, a touch of viper's venom. Bt the sixteenth century, the word was becoming generalized
to mean any 'soverign remedy', and often had rather negative connotations...The modern application of treacle to sugar syryup
(common in British English, relatively rare in American) seems to date from the seventeenth century, and probably arose
literally from the sugaring of the pill: the mixing of medicines with sugar syrup to make them more palatable. The
practice continued well into the nineteenth century, particularly in the administration of brimstone [sulphur] and
treacle to anyone with the least symptom of anything...In technical usage, treacle now refers to a cane sugar syrup
which has been boiled to remove some of the sucrose (it has less removed than molasses, which is therefore darker but less
sweet). The famous treacle well in Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland, at the bottom of which, according to the
Dormouse, the three little sisters Elsie, Lacie, and Tillie lived, had its origins in the medicinal sense of treacle. Treacle
wells really existed--they got their name from the supposed curative properties of their water--and there was apparently
one at Binsey near Oxford with which Carroll may have been familiar."
"Treacle, a term in Britain may be correctly applied to various sugar syrups including golden syrup obtained during the
process of sugar-refining, ranging in colour from just about black to pale golden, is in practice used mainly of the
darker syrups, brown or black, which are called molasses elsewhere. Treacle tart is a favourite dessert in England."
"When the production of molasses in Britain's refineries outstripped the needs of both apothecaries and distillers, it was
sold off in its natual unmedicated state as a cheap sweetener, Its name of molasses was taken by the early settlers to
America. But in Britain in the later seventeenth century the alternative term 'common treacle' came into circulation,
and thereafter it was known simply as treacle. One of the first usus to which it was put was the making of gingerbread. Medieval
gingerbread has been coloured red with sanders. In Tudor times dark gingergread was made with powdered licorice. When the
licorice was replaced by black treacle, it became possible to omit the honey which had sweetened the old gingerbread, and to add
a much smaller mount of sugar instead. Treacle gingerbread, said to have been made for Charles II, had as ingredients three
pounds of treacle, half a pound each of candied orange peel, candied lemon peel and green citron, two ounces of powdered
coriander seed, and flour to make it into a paste. But ordinary folk made do with no more than two ounces candied peel and
one ounce ginger and new spice to three pounds of flour and two of treacle. By the later eighteenth century treacle
consumption was much higher in northern England than in the south; for the diet of the poorer classes now differed
considerably between the two regions. In the north a spoonful of treacle was often added to a bowl of oatmeal porridge, a
dish almost unknown in the south...Treacle went into parkin (the northern form of gingerbread, containing oatmeal), and
into oatmeal biscuits of various kinds. it was still a thick, dark brown syrup...The increasing use of sugar and treacle
meant a gradual decline in beekeeping."
See also: molasses.
BROWN SUGAR
"Brown sugar...Less refined than white sugar, brown sugar consists of sugar crystals contained in
molasses syrup with natural color and flavor. It may also be made by adding syrup to white sugar
and blending."
How is brown sugar produced?
Types of brown sugar & their uses:
"Turbinado sugar:
This sugar is raw sugar which has been partially processed, where only the surface molasses has been washed off. It has a
blond color and mild brown sugar flavor, and is often used in tea and other beverages.
How available was brown sugar in 19th century America?
The recipe below confirms brown sugar (no description, though) was available in the Midwest (Wisconsin) during the 1840s. We did not find any period/place
specific advertisements for brown sugar. We cannot tell if this item was commonly available or the provenance of wealthy families who could afford to purchase
expensive goods from larger markets. Neither can we tell what is meant here by "ordinary."
"Ordinary brown sugar may be used, a larger portion of which is retained in the syrup."
CONFECTIONERS' SUGAR
"Powdered Finely-ground granulated sugar to which a small amount (3%) corn starch has
been added to prevent caking. The fineness to which the granulated sugar is ground determines
the familiar "X" factor: 14X is finer than 12X, and so on down through 10X, 8X, 6X (the most
commonly used) and 4X, the coarsest powdered sugar."
---Sweetener glossary
Food historians tell us powdered sugars were used by European confectioners as early as the 18th
century. Technological advances in the 19th century made them available to a wider audience. It
is no coincidence that cake icing appeared during this time:
Sorghum
"Sorghum...There are several varieties of this Old World grass (Sorghum vulgare) that are cultivated for grain, for forage,
and as a source of syrup. Sorghum is native to East Africa,w ehre it was being cultivated around 5,000 to
6,000 years ago. Sometime in the distant past (at least 2,000 years ago), the grain crossed the Indian Ocean to India and
subsequently made its way to China. More recently, various sorghums reached the New World via the slave trade. Today, grain sorghums
are grown extensively in Africa and Asia for use as human food and in the Americas as animals. Some sorghums in North
America--like "Johnson grass" and "Mississippi chicken corn"-- probably arrived as the as the seeds of important cultivars, only
to escape from cultivation and become annoying weeds. The juices of sorghums have provided humas with syrup for sweetening and in
Asia and Africa for the plant supplies malt, mash, and flavoring for alcoholic beverages, especially beers. Sorghum grains are
made into flour (for unleavened breads) and into porridges, and they are also prepared and consumed much like rice."
"Sorghum...a cereal related and simlar to and sometimes confused with millet, is an important staple food of the upland, drier,
parts of Africa and India. In other parts of the world it is chiefly grown as animal fodder. It is native to Africa, and was probably
first cultivated in Ethiopia between 4000 and 3000 BC. It spread thence to W. Africa, the Near east, India, and China, and later to the
New World...In the USA, in the 19th and early 20th centuries, sorghum syrup was popular as a cheap alternative to maple
syrup. Production, mainly in the southerns tates, was as much as 20 million gallons or more annually."
"Historical records trace the sorghum plant...to Africa. Benjamin Franklin was thought to have introduced sorghum to the United
States in the late 1700s...Syrup-making techniques came into prominence in the United States around the mid-1800s. Because of the
scarcity of sugar during wartime, sorghum syrup was the principal sweetener in many parts of the county."
"In earlier days, no kitchen table in the mountains was complete without its glass cruet of
sorghum. Many poured sorghum on badly cooked meats and vegetables to give them a sweet
kick.. And when the cow went dry, fold would make a butter substitute by micking sorghum and
pork drippings. Sorghum came into its own in colonial America as a substitute for sugar. When
sugar became available in the 1700s, it was very expensive, being sold in cones and sliced off as
needed. Sorghum also was relied upon as a sweetener during the Civil War when Union
blockades halted sugar shipments to Southern ports. Syrup made form sweet sorghum is
primarily a hill country sweetener with a light amber color. Darker-colored "molasses"--made of
sugar cane--is mostly a Deep South product coming from Louisiana and surrounding states.
Applachian people call their sorghum sweetener "molasses," the precise term is sorghum or
sweet sorghum or sorghum syrup. Sorghum was a key ingredient in moonshine in earlier days...It
was during the Prohibition era (1920-33) when whiskey-making progressed to the point where
moonshiners, to meet increased demand, turned to sugar to speed up fermentation of what
formerly had been pure corn whiskey. The smoother-tasting "sugar whiskey"--corn combined
with sugar--zoomed. During the years leading up to World War II, sugar supplied dropped
sharply, forcing moonshiners to turn to sorghum for their mash barrels. The syrup, in shiny tin
cans, would arrive at distilleries by the truckload...There are mountain folk yet today who love
to sweeten their coffee with sweet sorghum."
More on sorghum.
Corn syrup
Corn syrup was an accidental discovery based on past experiences with other vegetables, most notably potatoes and
sugar beets. High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS) is a more refined and sweeter version. Invented in 1967, HFCS is widely used in today's
processed foods.
CORN SYRUP CHEMISTRY & VARIATIONS
ORIGINS & EVOLUTION
EARLY 20TH CENTURY DESCRIPTIONS
[1911]
[1916]
ABOUT KARO BRAND CORN SYRUP
"Corn syrup. A sweet, thick liquid derived from cornstarch treated with acids or enzymes and used
to sweeten and thicken candy, syrups, and snack foods. By far the most popular and best-known
corn syrup is Karo, introduced in 1902 by Corn Products Company of Edgewater, New Jersey.
The name "karo" may have been in honor of the inventor's wife, Caroline, or, some say, derivative
of an earlier trademark for table syrup, "Karomel." So common is the use of Karo in making pecan
pie that the confection is often called "Karo pie" in the South."
HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP
"...the premium is high-fructose corn syrup, first commercialized in 1967 by the Clinton Corn Processing Co. of Clinton,
Iowa, which patented Isomerose (named for the enzyme xylose isomerase, which converts glucose to fructose). By 1872, the company had
increased the sweetness from 14 to 42 percent fructose, to make it equivalent to ordinary sugar. As sugar prices rose, food and
beverage industrialists began to replace more and more sucrose with "Isosweet." Within four years, production of the supersweet
syrup jumped from two hundred thousand to two and a half billion pounds a year, and within the decade it had become a major
component of all major soft drinks. Today, HFCS can be made 25 percent sweeter than sugar...and in crystalline form is an important
rival to saccharin in the sugar-substitute industry."
What exactly is HFCS?
A more technical definition:
"High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS)—A corn sweetener derived from the wet milling of corn. Cornstarch is converted to a syrup that is nearly all dextrose. Enzymes isomerize the dextrose to produce a 42 percent fructose syrup called HFCS-42. By passing HFCS-42 through an ion-exchange column that retains fructose, corn refiners draw off 90 percent HFCS and blend it with HFCS-42 to make a third syrup, HFCS-55. HFCS is found in numerous foods and beverages on the grocery store shelves. HFCS-90 is used in natural and "light" foods in which very little is needed to provide sweetness. (ERS, USDA). Total fiber is the sum of dietary fiber and functional fiber.
WEB SITES
RECOMMENDED READING
ABOUT WHITE CHOCOLATE
Recipes for "vanilla tablets" appear in cookbooks published by chocolate manufacturers.
Vanilla tablets/Walter Baker & Company [1913]
A cheap vanilla chocolate (wholesale)
So what exactly IS white chocolate? U.S. Food and Drug Administration recently defined this
product and set forth standards for its
manufacture. They can be found in 21 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Section
163.124:
"Sec. 163.124 White chocolate. (a) Description. (1) White chocolate is the solid or semiplastic
food prepared by intimately mixing and grinding cacao fat with one or more of the optional dairy
ingredients specified in paragraph (b)(2) of this section and one or more optional nutritive
carbohydrate sweeteners and may contain one or more of the other optional ingredients specified
in paragraph (b) of this section. White chocolate shall be free of coloring material. (2) White
chocolate contains not less than 20 percent by weight of cacao fat as calculated by subtracting
from the weight of the total fat the weight of the milkfat, dividing the result by the weight of the
finished white chocolate, [[Page 62178]] and multiplying the quotient by 100. The finished white
chocolate contains not less than 3.5 percent by weight of milkfat and not less than 14 percent by
weight of total milk solids, calculated by using only those dairy ingredients specified in paragraph
(b)(2) of this section, and not more than 55 percent by weight nutritive carbohydrate sweetener.
(b) Optional ingredients. The following safe and suitable ingredients may be used: (1) Nutritive
carbohydrate sweeteners; (2) Dairy ingredients: (i) Cream, milkfat, butter; (ii) Milk, dry whole
milk, concentrated milk, evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk; (iii) Skim milk,
concentrated skim milk, evaporated skim milk, sweetened condensed skim milk, nonfat dry milk;
(iv) Concentrated buttermilk, dried buttermilk; and (v) Malted milk; (3) Emulsifying agents, used
singly or in combination, the total amount of which does not exceed 1.5 percent by weight; (4)
Spices, natural and artificial flavorings, ground whole nut meats, ground coffee, dried malted
cereal extract, salt, and other seasonings that do not either singly or in combination impart a
flavor that imitates the flavor of chocolate, milk, or butter; (5) Antioxidants; and (6) Whey or
whey products, the total amount of which does not exceed 5 percent by weight. (c)
Nomenclature. The name of the food is ``white chocolate'' or ``white chocolate coating.'' When
one or more of the spices, flavorings, or seasonings specified in paragraph (b)(4) of this section
are used, the label shall bear an appropriate statement, e.g., ``Spice added'', ``Flavored with ------
'', or ``With ------ added'', the blank being filled in with the common or usual name of the spice,
flavoring, or seasoning used, in accordance with Sec. 101.22 of this chapter. (d) Label
declaration. Each of the ingredients used in the food shall be declared on the label as required by
the applicable sections of parts 101 and 130 of this chapter. Dated: September 27, 2002. Margaret
M. Dotzel, Associate Commissioner for Policy. [FR Doc. 02-25252 Filed 10-3-02; 8:45 am]"
About white chocolate & the 1980s:
"So called "white chocolate" is made out to cacao butter only, but in the United States it must be
called "White confectionery coating," since it contains no cacao solids and therefore does not fit
the legal requirements for "chocolate." It has the disadvantage of a relatively short shelf-life and a
tendency to pick up foreign flavors."
---The True History of Chocolate, Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe [Thames and
Hudson:New
York] 1996 (p. 29)
Related food? White chocolate mousse
Brittle-type recipes were quite possibly the first candies. These simple combinations
composed of honey and sesame seeds were favorites of ancient middle eastern cooks.
Like many foods, brittle evolved over time due to regional culinary preferences,
ingredient availability (refined sugar, molasses; almonds, peanuts), and technological
advances. According to the food historians peanut brittle, as we know it today, is
probably a 19th century American invention.
A survey of old cookbooks confirms recipes for peanut brittle (as we know it today)
appear in 19th century. They are called by different names. Peanuts were orginally called
groundnuts. One
must examine these recipes carefully with regards to ingredients and method to
determine the finished product. Skuse's Complete Confectioner (late 19th
century British professional confectionery text) does not contain such a recipe. It does,
however, contain recipes for comfits, a related item.
"The ancient Egyptians preserved nuts and fruits with honey."
"Brittle is a simple and ancient sweet, and has been made for centuries in many
countries. It is very similar to some types of nougat made with honey and nuts only (no
egg white). Two examples are the Provencal 'croquant' made with sugar, honey, and
almonds; and Italian 'croccante' with sugar, sometimes a little butter (which makes it
less hard), and almonds. Similar confections of nuts, especially pistachios, almonds,
and cashews, or sesame seeds, are popular in parts of the Arabic speaking world.
Versions of nut and sesame seed brittle are to be found in many parts of Asia...peanut
brittle is a popular sweet in North America."
"In the late 1850s...people were talking about peanut candy, peanut and molasses
candy, or peanut brittle (though the last term didn't become truly popular until about
1900)..."
EARLY PEANUT BRITTLE RECIPES
[1847]
[1908]
"Peanut candy.
[1919]
"Peanut brittle.
[1925]
George Washington Carver's Peanut
recipes
Early American candy
Sugar candy (including molasses and maple), candied fruits & flowers (a Renaissance-era
favorite), sugar coated nuts (comfits), marzipan (almond paste), brittles, and toffee were all
enjoyed by Americans in 17th and 18th centuries. Period cooking texts typically group candy with
"sweet meats" or confectionery. Sweet meats also included preserves, jams, jellies, syrups, small
cakes/cookies, ice cream and sherbet. Some of the candies we Americans enjoy today (liquorice,
marshmallows, hard candies, peppermint) were originally used for medicinal purposes. "Recipes"
for these items were often included in medical texts as well as cookbooks. A wide variety of
different types of sugar were used to make these candies.
What kinds of candy did the first Americans eat? Native Americans in the northern regions were
adept at tapping maple trees for syrup.
European settlers introduced the foods they enjoyed in the Old World. The following confections
were known in Medieval and Renaissance Europe:
"Confectionery was another art practiced by efficient housewives. It took several forms. Whole fruits or berries cooked and stored in syrup were called preserves.
Mashed, they became marmalade, conserve, or jam. "Dried" (that is, candied like modern crystallized fruit) they were confections or sweetmeats. When their juices
were mixed with syrup and reduced sufficiently to form hard candies, they were chips; when mashed pulp was used in the same way, they were called pastes.
Strained juices were also used to make jelly, as in modern practice, and there were fruit and berry syrups. Brandied fruits were prepared by adding brandy to the
syrup in which whole fruits were stored. Mrs. Randolph's selection of recipes, reflecting Virginia tastes at the end of the [18th] century, emphasized preserves--
peaches, pears, quinces, cherries, strawberries, gooseberries, raspberries, and sweet tomato marmalade. Her preserving kettle was made of bell metal, "flat at the
bottom, very large in diameter, but not deep," with a tight-fitting cover and "handles at the sides of the pan, for taking it off with ease wthen the syrup boils too fast."
Other desirable equipment included a large chafing dish with long legs "for the convenience of moving it to any part of the room," a ladle "the size of a saucer,
pierced and having a long handle" for "taking up the fruit without syrup," small glasses or pots of a maximum two-pound capacity, and "letter paper wet with brandy"
to cover the containers...Mrs. Custis' "Book of Sweetmeats" reflected the elegance and artificiality of tastes in Queen Anne's court. In addition to the conventional
preserves, she included the more elaborate confectionery that usued flowers and herbs, roots and nuts as well as fruits and berries in a variety of crystallized
preparations and hard candies to decorate dessert tables...Walnuts and almonds, eryngo and ginger roots, angelica stalks and roots, and marjoram and mint leaves
were sometimes crystallized. Mrs. Custis also chopped or mashed them and stirred them into a manus Christi syrup, which was dripped into "rock candies" or
"cakes" about the size of a sixpence. Fruit juices carefully strained produced clear drops and cakes. The pulp of fruits and berries, treated like almond paste in
marchpane, made pastes in a great variety of flavors and colors: apricots, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, pippins, raspberries, gooseberries, barberries, cherries,
oranges, lemons. Even more decorative was Paste Royall, printed in molds and then gilded."
A survey of candy recipes published in cookbooks used by early American cooks
[1753]
[1749-1799]
[1792]
[1847]
Need to make something for class? Selected modernized recipes:
"Candied Peel
"Apricot Leather
"Hoarhound Candy
"Molasses Candy
"Benne (Sesame) Brittle
"Hickory Nut Creams
"Spiced Walnuts
"Pralines
"Apricot Sweetmeats
The Industrial Revolution made possible many new candies. Advances in food technology,
scientific knowledge, and cooking apparatus made possible items such as jelly beans and chocolate. Most 19th century American
cookbooks do not include recipes for making chocolate candy because it was primarily made by
professional confectioners. "Penny candies" were a direct result of cheaper ingredients and mass
production.
Primary sources/historic cookbooks
[1864]
These popular American brands were introduced to the American public between the late 1800s
and 1929:
Wrigley's gum (Spearmint, Juicy Fruit)
Chocolate is a "New World" food originating in South America. It
was first
consumed in liquid form by the Ancient Mayans and Aztecs. Spanish explorers introduced
chocolate to
Europe, where it was likewise appreciated and esteemed. Chocolate candy made its debut in the
middle of
the 19th century (Cadbury). At that time, it was very expensive and out of the reach of most
people. The
Industrial Revolution enabled the chocolate industry to grow and flourish. By the end of the 19th
century
chocolate was enjoyed by "the masses" (Hershey). Cream candies ultimately trace their roots to
Medieval
and Renaissance soft cream fillings used to compose trifle and fill pastries. Later developments
included
creme brulee and caramel cream. Chocolate-coated
cream candies of all kinds were extremely
popular in
the late 19th/early 20th centuries.
According to the food historians, chocolate truffles were named thusly because the finished
product
resembles the naturally occuring, expensive fungus of the same name. About fungus truffles. Alan Davidson's
Oxford Companion
to Food states this candy became popular in the 1920s.
"Many who have never encountered vegetable truffles have tucked into confectioners' truffles,
sweets the
colour and shape of black truffles, made from a mixture of chocolate, sugar, and cream (and often
rum)
and covered with a dusting of cocoa powder or tiny chocolate strands. These are, of course, a
much more
recent phenomenon; they made their first appearance in an Army and Navy Stores catalogue for
1926-7."
While references to early 19th century chocolate truffles can be found in some books on American food history, it is unlikely
the confection, as we know it today, existed that early. Possibly these authors are referring to chocolate creams, a related confection.
The earliest authentic/historic recipe we have for chocolate truffles dates to the 1920s:
Most people think the origin of cotton candy (also known as spun sugar" "fairy floss" or "candy
floss") is a simple documented fact. It's not. There are several stories recounting the invention of
cotton candy. All are interesting. None are definitive. Most accounts credit the invention of cotton
candy to enterprising American businessmen at the turn of the 20th century. The 1904 Louisiana
Exposition in St. Louis is often cited as the place where cotton candy was introduction to the
American people.
The truth? Spun sugar was known long before this time. Mid-18th century master confectioners in
Europe and America hand crafted spun sugar nests as Easter decorations and webs of silver and
gold spun sugar for elaborate dessert presentations. At that time, spun sugar was an expensive,
labor-intensive endeavor and was not
generally available to the average person. How was spun sugar made before the invention of
modern machines?
[1864]
[1894]
Cotton candy, as fair food, began when W.J. Morrison and J.C. Wharton (Nashville, TN)
patented the first electric machine for spinning sugar into edible threads in 1897. This machine
produced cotton candy quickly in mass quantities. The machine was portable, the process was
novel, the appeal was universal. Perfect fair food. Notes from the original patent:
In the dawning years of the 20th century cotton candy was also sold in sweet shops and
department
store candy counters. A Wanamaker's advertisement announcing the acquisition of "A
Wonderful Candy Machine" ran in the New York Times February 11, 1905 (p.4). Price of
their
cotton candy? 5-10 cents, probably depending upon size.
Bruce Feiler's notes debunking the popular history of cotton candy:
"The Dictionary of American Food and Drink reports that the item [cotton candy]
originated in 1900 at the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Baily Circus, when snack vendor Thomas
Patton began experimenting with the long common process of boiling sugar to a caramelized
state, then forming long threads of it with a fork. Patton's genious, according to the entry, was to
heat the sugar on a gas-fired rotating plate, creating a cottony floss. The truth may be less
romantic, but it is no less appealing. In 1897 William Morrison and John
C. Wharton, candy makers in Nashville, invented the world's first electric machine that allowed
crystallized sugar to be poured onto a heated spinning plate, then pushed by centrifugal force
through a series of tiny holes. In 1904, at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, commonly known as
the St. Louis World's Fair, Morrison and Wharton sold the product, then known as "fairy floss,"
in chipped-wood [cardboard] boxes for 25 cents a serving. Though the price was half the
admission of the fair itself, they sold 68,655 boxes..."
About the
science of sugar.
Cotton candy: notes from the
National Confectioners Association (includes how cotton candy is made today. If you need more
details about the manufacturing process ask your librarian to help you find this book:
How Products are Made, Jacqueline L. Longe, editor, Volume 4 [Gale:Detroit] 1999 (p.
157-161).
Although recipes for various nougat and sweet meringue-type confections (with and without nuts
and fruit) can be traced to ancient Turkish and 17th century European and roots, food historians
generally agree that Divinity (aka Divinity fudge, Divinity candy) is an early 20th century
American invention. Why? One of the primary ingedients in early Divinity recipes is corn syrup, a
product actively marketed to (& embraced by) American consumers as a sugar substitute at that
time. Corn syrup was affordable (economical), practical (shelf-stable), and adapted well to most
traditional recipes. Karo brand corn
syrup, introduced by the Corn Products Refining Company in
1902, was/is perhaps the most famous. It is no coincidence that early Karo cooking brochures
contain recipes for Divinity.
Food historians have yet to determine the first person to call this delicious confection "Divinity. "
The general concensus about the name? The finished product tasted "divine." A survey of
American cookbooks confirms recipes for Divinity (candy, fudge, rolls) were "standard items"
from the 1930s to present. Some people connect Divinity with southern roots. This is not
confirmed by our cooking texts which are published all over the country. Perhaps Divinity with
pecans is a Southern twist on a national favorite?
This is what the food experts have to say:
"Divinity. An American confection related to nougat and marshmallow. It is made by cooking a
sugar syrup to the firm or hard-ball stage...and then beating it into whisked egg whites."
"Divinity...also divinity fudge [Prob with ref to its "divine" flavor] esp. west of Appalachians.
Homemade candy made by pouring hot sugar syrup into beaten egg whites. 1913 E.H. Glover
Dame Curtsey's Book of Candy Making (p. 34) Divinity Fudge. Three and one-half cups
of granulated sugar, one-half cup of 90 per cent corn syrup, two thirds cup water [etc.]"
"White divinity fudge wasn't heard of until around 1910."
Why does Divinity sometimes choose not to set?
[1907]
[1910]
[1915]
[1917]
[1926]
Why won't divinity set in certain types of weather?
Related foods? Meringue and fudge.
Dolly mixtures are a uniquely British treat. They seem to be related to liquorice allsorts,
popular colorful candies of different shapes and sizes that are about 100 years old. About liquorice.
"...it is probably in confectionery that liquorice has found its most extensive and attractive culinary
use. For this purpose, the extract from the roots is combined with sugar, water, gelatin, and flour
to give a malleable black or brown paste, which is tough and chewy. These attribute are used to
gread effect by manufactureres who mould it into pipes, cables, and long strips or 'bootlaces'; or
combine it with brighly coloured soft sugar paste to make liquorice allsorts. These sweets, very
popular in Britain, are of divers and striking appearance, mostly made of layers of black refined
liquorice combined in various ways with brightly coloured paste imitating marzipan. Some lumps
of liquorice rolled in coloured sugar vermicelli. Thanks to the liquorice in them, the flavour of
these sweets is more interesting than that of most cheap confectionery."
Where did the name "Dolly Mixture" come from? The food historians are still looking for a
definative answer. There are several theories:
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, a dolly mixture is a "mixture of tiny coloured
sweets of various shapes." The earliest citation to print references using this term dates back
only to 1957. One of these books, Lore and Language of Schoolchildren, Iona Opie, states
"Other current sweet-shop favourites appear to be the same as thirty years ago, in fact bull's
eyes, jelly babies, and dolly mixture have entered schoolchild language as descriptive nouns."
(page 166). This dates the term dolly mixtures, as they relate to candy, back at least to the late
1920s.
Just below this entry is another definition for the word dolly: "Anglo-Indian [ad.Hindi
Dali]...A complimentary offering of fruit, flowers, vegetables, sweetmeats and the like
presented usually on one or more trays..." Perhaps this term, as it relates to candy, was
borrowed from traditions begun in British India?
Another argument supporting the possible connection to India is the word dal, or dahl. These
pulses (beans, peas, legumes) are one of the principal foods in the Indian subcontinent. Dal is
often composed of items of various sizes and colors, thus the possible connection (in looks
only) to the popular candy mix. You can find more information on Dal in the Oxford
Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 241) and
A
Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, K.Y. Achaya [Oxford University Press:Delhi] 1998 (p.
60).
Laura Mason, British confectionery history expert, says the connection between Indian dahl and
dolly mixtures is unlikely.
"Soft Bright Jellies for Dolly Mixtures
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the term Fondant (in print) dates to 1877:
"Fondants are sweets made from a paste produced by boiling sugar syrup and then kneading it until it is soft, creamy, and smooth. The same sort of paste is also
used as the basis for icing for cakes (fondant icing). The term comes from the present participle of French fondre, 'melt', and is probably an allusion to fondant
'melting in the mouth'."
"Fondant...is a relative recent development in confectionery. It appears to have originated in the middle of the 19th century, probably in France, although the
historian Mary Isin...suggests that it might first have come from Ottoman Turkey. A variety of fondant which had cream amongst its ingredients was popular in the
late 19th and early 20th centuries under the name of 'Opera Caramels'. Today, fondant has been reduced to a supporting role in confectionery, largely as a filling
for chocolates. When used in this way, it is often referred to as creme, or cream filling; this is a statement about the texture, rather than a reference to the
ingredients. A popular way of consuming fondant in the late 20th century is a mint-flavoured, chocolate-coated form intended to be eaten after dinner. Rolled
fondant is a type of sugar paste icing...and is used for covering cakes."
"Fondant is relatively simple to make, and lends itself to many variations in colour and flavour. In the 1890s, various handbooks suggested it as a dainty suitable for
making by ladies wishing to earn a little income, both in Britain and North America...Presenting confectionery as a creative pastime which allowed the practitioner to
show off expertise and good taste echoed the seventeenth-century ideals fo gentlewomen who could make banqueting conceits. Fondant is now rarely seen without
a coating of chocolate, and is no longer considered an exciting novelty...Exploitation of fondant and starch-moulding led to a fin-de-siecle flourish of pastel
confectionery in myriad shapes and colours. About 1900, Skuse commented on 'Fondant Cream Work' that, 'this department has developed more rapidly and
more extensively than perhaps any other in the business, if we except chocolate, and even then, fondant cream has been of great assistance to the coca bean.
' Ironically, it was fondant which acted as a midwife to chocolate--now the dominating confection. Since 1866, the Bristol company of Joseph Fry and Sons had
been selling their Chocolate Cream Bar, filled with fondant. This was an enormous success."
Fondant icing
"Fondant is a very popular kind of icing. It is a form of boiled icing which subsequently is worked to a creamy consistency. The
formula and method for making fondant are stated later. A mixture of granulated sugar, glucose, and water is first boiled to a temperature
of 240 degress F. In some formulas a small amount of cream of tartar or citric acid is used in the mix, often replacing the
glucose. The sides of the kettle or receptacle in which the boiling is done should be washed down occasionally by means of a brush
wet with water. Care chould be taken not to boil the syrup above the specified temperature. At this point is should be poured out
on a stone slab, usually marble, which has just been previously mostined with cold water. The sugary mass is allowed to cool down
to about 110 degrees F. and is then thoroughly worke back and forth, either by hand or machine, until a smooth, creamy mass is
obtained. This treatment results in the formation of very fine crystals of sugar which account for the smoothness and glossy survace
of the fondant. A large batch of fondant may be made up at a time and kept in good condition by storing in a clean receptacle and
covering with a damp cloth. When it is desired to use this icing, the portion required is removed, and thinned down by warming, while
stirring, over a hot water bath. The temrpartue of the fondant during this process should not go over 100 degrees F. otherwise it
may lose its gloss and creaminess. The desired flavoring is then added to the fondant and it is ready to apply on the cake. On
cooling, it will set nicely. Properly handled, it will not bcome hard and will retain its gloss. APPLICATION. Many of the smaller
pieces can be dipped. For this work, a fondant icing is very good. The fondant, being very heavy and almost all sugar, is
soemtimes too sweet an icing. This may be toned down a bit by the addition of marshmallow, or beaten icing, which also
lightness the fondant and makes it more fluff. Fondant sould be applied very thick and should always be used warm. Cakes as large
as four inches in diameter may be dipped quickly. Where a number of small pieces are made, dipping is a very good method. The use of
fondant is more general on these small pieces; small squares, oblongs, or fancy shapes cut from various cake bases, form the
foundation for a great variety of holiday cakes."
Plastic icing?
"In Australia, despite its varied immigrant population, the British cake remained dominant but not in any static and unchanging
form. The major change which has been noted in the British trade in the 1890s had its roots in an Australian enthusiasm for
sugarcraft and cake-decoration which began in the 1950s...The provided competition classes for decorated cakes and in this way
promoted experimentation. A distinctive new style developed. This was based on a change of material. Royal icing was demoted
from its pre-eminence as the standard material for covering and decorating all the more important cakes to a mere auxiliary
for piping. Two other substances to be used in conjuction with it became essential. For covering there was 'plastic icing,' a cold-mixed
alternative to cooked fondant icing, made with glucose, gelatine, glycerine and flavouring, in addition to icing sugar and water.
For modelling it was aversion of the ancient sugarpaste...I The Australian Book of Cake Decorating (1973), Bernice
Vercoe, one of the leaders of the movement from the 1950s onwards, wrote: 'We do not recommend royal icing for coverings as this
mixture is hard and brittle when dry and tends to crack and separate from the cake whe cut', but 'the English still use it'.
'In Australia royal icing is used for pipework only.' Plastic icing, on the other hand, 'remains soft to the bite for long and
indefinite periods'...It is also easier to use, being rolled out and draped and conformed to almost any shape; it does not have to
be smoothed on moist and allowed to set. The very considerable skill needed to achieve a fine, smooth surface even on regular
shapes with royal icing becomes redundant."
More from Ms. Vercoe:
"The [Wilton] school teaches the American, Lambeth and Australian styles of cake decorating. Classes also are given in chocolate artistry, pulled sugar, figure piping and cakes for catering.
The two-week basic cake-decorating course costs $500, while other courses range from three to five days and cost $150 to $300.
The American method--the decorating style first taught by Wilton --emphasizes buttercream, shell borders, swags and piped icing flowers. Australian techniques include rolled fondant coatings,
lace work and royal icing flowers, while the Lambeth, or continental, method uses ornate layers of piped-on icing for its rococo effects."
"Last week's listing of summer cooking courses in the city inadvertently omitted Rose Levy Beranbaum at Cordon Rose, 110 Bleecker Street, Apartment 7D, New
York 10012. 475-8856. Dessert Baking and Cake Decorating 11 begins June 8. The cost for six sessions is $270. Miss Beranbaum studied at Ecole LeNotre in
France. Her course includes several LeNotre desserts, such as Gateau a la Brioche, Genoise, Dacquoise, rolled fondant, marzipan roses, royal icing flowers and ice
cream."
Australian recipe & instructions, circa 1956
To Cover Cake With Fondant Icing
You can make your own rolled fondant or purchase it from a cake supply store.
Related foods? Opera creams & icing.
Food historians puzzle over fudge. Why?
Linguistics [the study of word evolution]... many recipes predate their popular names: before
there was fudge, there were chocolate creams.
While the history of sweet compact confections (with or without nuts) is ancient, the fudge we
Americans enjoy today (especially of the chocolate variety) is a relative newcomer.
American confectioners introduced modern fudge to resort-area vacationers in the 1880s.
Mackinac Island (Michigan) is particularly known for this confection. Early recipes for
home-made fudge are more closely related to early 20th century cake icing than other
confections. One of the primary differences between professional and amateur fudge is the
equipment. Professionals employed huge marble tables to work their confections into the right
consistency. Home cooks (& Ivy League co-eds) simply poured their mixed indredients directly
into baking pans and let them cool.
This is what the food historians say on the topic:
"Fudge. A semisoft candy made from butter, sugar, and various flavorings, them most usual being
chocolate, vanilla, and maple. The candy was first made in New England women's colleges. The
origins of the term are obscure. The Oxford English Dictionary suggests it may be a
variant of an
older word, "fadge," meaning "to fit pieces together." "Fudge" had been used to mean a hoax or
cheat since about 1833, and by midcentury "Oh, fudge!" was a fairly innocuous expletive. It has
long been speculated that American college women, using candymaking as an excuse to stay up
late at night, applied the then-current meaning to the new candy...The word "fudge as a candy
first showed up in print in 1896, and by 1908 was commonly
associated with women's colleges, as in "Wellesley Fudge,"..."Divinity fudge" with egg whites
and often, candied cherries, came along about 1910 and was especially popular during the
holidays. The name probably referred to its "divine" flavor."
"The addition of dairy products [to Scottish tablet] was a development which contributing more
than must flavour...This is exploited by fudge, a confection which relies on similar ingredients
and principles to tablet, but is richer, softer and requires a slightly lower temperature. On
first tasting, the similarities seem overwhelming, both in flavour...and general textures. It is easy
to assume that they share a common origin; but the derivation of the name fudge and the origins
of the sweet are both obscure. Fudge as now understood seems to have travelled east to Britain
from North America. Anecdotal evidence links it to women's colleges in the laste nineteenth
century, and most early recipes include chocolate. It is possible that Scottish migrants took the
idea of milk-based tablet to North America. Whether these were influenced by fudge-like
mixtures of brown sugar and nuts from Creole cuisine of the southern states is unclear. Fudge
appears to have been taken up by confectioners and large companies some years later.
Skuse, who actively collected formulae, including North American ones, did not give one for
fudge in the early editions of his Confectoners Handbook, but recipes first appear in
British books in the first decade of this century."
"Fudge, which denotes a sort of soft, somewhat toffee-like sweet made by boiling together sugar,
butter, and milk, is a mystery word. It first appeared, in the USA, at the end of the nineteenth
century, when it was used for a kind of chocolate bonbon', and by 1902 the journal The
Queen was recording tat the greatest "stunt" among college students is mo make
Fudge;. It is generally assumed to have been an adaptation of the verb fudge, in the
sendse make inexpertly, botch. But this merely begs the question, as the origin ofo the verb, too,
is uncertain."
It is quite likely enterprising co-eds found "alternative" ways to melt store-bought
chocolate/cocoa (Baker's, Hershey's), adding whatever ingredients they had on hand, to
approximate the semi-soft, delicious confections they tasted on family holiday. Their concoctions
probably tasted pretty good. Where there's a will, there's a way.
Most recipes are not invented, they evolve. Compare this recipe for "chocolate carmel"
with those below for "fudge":
Two of the earliest recipes we have for [homemade] fudge are these:
[1903] Fudge
The Candy Cook Book, Alice Bradley [Little Brown:Boston] 1929 has an entire chapter
devoted to fudges. The introduction reads:
Opera fudge
Opera fudge is one of many delicious culinary specialties connected with Lebanon, PA. This
fondant candy is a seasonal treat, traditionally made from Thanksgiving to Easter (it melts in the
hotter months). In other parts of the country these candies are called opera drops [Boston], french creams, and opera
caramels. Cincinnati's famous Opera Creams are a chocolate-coated fondant.
Why "opera?"
"Rueppel isn't sure why it's called opera fudge but doesn't think it has anything to do with fat
ladies, at least not the singing kind. ''I think it's because it's a real rich fudge,'' Rueppel said. ''The
opera is something rich - at the top - like opera fudge.''
"Opera drops were chocolates with vanilla cream filling, kind of conical, haystack shaped. You
would by them at intermission at the opera. There was a British brand called Between the Acts
that you could buy at Bailey's in Boston."
"Fondant...A variety of fondant which had cream amongst its ingredients was popular in the late
19th and early 20th centuries under the name of 'Opera Caramels'."
The name "opera" seems indeed to be a 20th century invention, evidenced by the fact that
Skuse's Complete Confectioner [an important industry text, London: 1898?] makes no
reference to them. Skuse's also does not use the word "fudge."
Opera creams, Cincinnati style
"Alex C. Papas, former owner of Chris A. Papas & Son Co. - the company that makes those popular chocolate-covered opera cream Easter eggs - died Monday of cancer
at St. Elizabeth Medical Center South in Edgewood. The Crestview Hills resident was 84...Mr. Papas' father, also named Chris, was a Greek who emigrated to the United
States from Macedonia in 1909. When he was 11, the junior Papas helped his father support the family by cleaning furnaces and delivering coal when they decided to
experiment with candy recipes in the basement. "They were just fooling around with the candy," Mr. Papas' son said. "They were trying to make a dollar any way that
they could." They came up with a candy that they liked and began selling it on street corners. "When business got kind of slow in the warm months, they started making
ice cream," his son said. "That's when they opened the ice cream parlor and soda shop." In 1935 - the midst of the Great Depression - they set up a retail shop named
Lily's Candies after Mr. Papas' mother. Mr. Papas left school after the eighth grade to help his father make the candy by hand, full-time. Before he was inducted into the
Army in 1942, he met Ann Zappa and asked her to "come work with me." She was making chocolates and he was stationed in West Virginia during the summer of 1943,
when she traveled there to marry him before he was shipped out to Europe to fight in World War II. Mr. Papas was in the Battle of the Bulge. After the war, he returned to
Covington and to the growing candy business. He designed machines to make candy in order to keep up with demand. Today Papas opera creams are popular from
Washington, D.C., to Arizona. The factory makes as many as 100,000 eggs in an eight-hour day during peak season - the three months before Easter.Mr. Papas bought
the production side of the business and renamed it Chris A. Papas & Son when his father retired in 1957. His sister Katherine Papas Hartmann purchased Lily's Candies
and operated it until she sold it to her brother in 1987."
[1924]
[1929]
[1931]
Food historians tell us halva (halvah, hulwa) is an ancient confection originating in the Middle
East.
"Halvah...A confection of mashed sesame seeds and honey. Halvah is of Turkish origin and was
first sold in America at the turn of the century by Turkish, Syrian, and Armenian street
vendors...The candy soon became a favorite of the Jewish immigrants in New York, and today
halvah is still associated with Jewish delicatessens, even though one of the most popular
commercial brands still depicts a turbaned Turk on its wrapper. The word was first printed in
1840."
One of the primary ingredients of halva is sesame seed. These seeds were known to ancient cooks
and incorporated into many recipes.
"Sesame...one of the first oil-yielding plants to be taken into cultivation, in Egypt or the Near
East. Wild species with one exception, are African; but there is a secondary source of diversity'
in India, where sesame was introduced in very early times. The name sesame is one of the few
words to have passed into modern languages from ancient Egyptian, in which it was sesmt."
MEDIEVAL RECIPES
"Halwa Yabisa.
Hulwa recipe with modern
instructions, Cariodoc's Miscellany:
Jelly beans belong to the culinary family of fruit jellies. These sweet confections have long been enjoyed as jams, jellies,
conserves, and preserves. Fruit gums, leathers and decorative chewy slices are natural iterations along this culinary theme.
Food historians generally agree jelly beans, as we know them today, descended from Turkish Delight, a fruit-gum confection
originating in the Middle East. These were very popular from the mid-19th century forwards. Laura Mason, British confectionery expert,
credits the USA for developing jelly beans. To date, we find no particular person, place or company claiming to have invented the first
"jelly bean." Notes here:
"[in the 16th century]The majority of these fruit sweetmeats were available in two guises. They could be wet, swimming in rich syrup, stored in jars
and eaten with a spoon or (later) fork. Or they could be dry, in lumps or little chips, coated in sugar and kept in boxes between
thick sheets of paper...There were other fruit sweets devised in the medieval period, the ancestors of multi-coloured modern
fruit jellies. The names for these sweets make them sound more like breakfast or teatime delicacies, but it is necessary to
forget the modern meanings of these words for a moment. Take marmalade. Today, this is a jam-like condiment made of oranges and
sugar, semi liquid and flecked with strips fo peel...But the name is derived from the medieval Portuguese marmelada, a stiff
paste that was cut in slices rather than spread. The word derives from the Portuguese marmelo, or quince, since this fragrant
yet knobbly item was originally the favoured fruit for preserving, and it became the term used by the mid sixteenth century
to describe all kinds of fruits preserves, not glutinous and syrupy as they are today, but stiff enought to be made into
individual sweets if so desired...It is possible that the technique of naking thse marmalades and other conserves, by boiling up
equal amounts of fruit pulp and sugar in water, was inherited from the Levant, where confectioners were skilled at melding fruit with
sugar largely because of the ubiquity of sherbet...The main ingredients of sherbet were sugar syrup or sugar candy--in Turkey
a dark pink substance called gul sekeri--and any one of scores of fruit juices and pulots...However, a seventeethn-century visitor
to Turkey described this base sherbet flavour not as a liquid but as a type of fruit paste. And Francis Bacon, writing in 1626,
notes: "They have in Turkey and the East certaine Confections, which they call Servets [sherbets], which are like to Candied
Conserves and...these they dissolve in Water, and therof make their Drinke...'...Stiff fruit fruit jellies, coated in sugar, as well
as wobbly ones for the pudding table, were greatly in favour during the eighteenth century, when the thickening agent used was
sometimes isinglass...Another type of conserved fruit sweetmeat persists as the unappetisingly named 'leather', thin layers of
fruit paste, made of fruit and sugar in equal parts...This leather is known as armadine in the Middle East..."
"Jelly beans are a combination of the Middle Eastern fruit-gum candy Turkish Delight and the
seventeenth-century method of coating Jordan almonds. The production of jelly beans has
changed little since the candy was first developed in the late nineteenth century...The date of the
introduction of the jelly bean is in dispute, but the earliest known published mention of the candy
was October 2, 1898, in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle. By the turn of the century, jelly beans were
popular, selling for nine to twelve cents per pound, and by the 1930s they had become associated
with Easter."
"As with many other sweets, mass-production and cheapness banished the magic. They have become slicker, from techniques for glazing
the surface with edible waxes. They have become more yielding, as 'soft panning' evolved, using glucose syrup in place of sugar
syrup required for old-fashioned hard comfits, and relying as much on air currents as on heating to dry the sweets. Jelly beans are
the best example: developed in the USA, these spread eastwards to Europe, together with chewing gum (the varieties of this which have
crisp little sugar shells are also panned)."
About Turkish Delight
This article confirms the popularity of Turkish confectionery in Europe:
A KING'S CONFECTIONER IN THE ORIENT, Priscilla Mary Isin/Petits propos culinaires,
Feburary 2002 [includes selected historic recipes]
Jelly Belly (formerly Goelitz, maker of fruit jelly confections in the early 20th century) launched in 1976.
Like marshmallows, liquorice (North Americans prefer licorice')
is an ancient remedy that survives today as candy. Up until the 19th century both items were
based plant extracts. Today they are mass produced with synthetic ingredients and no longer
contain the original healing ingredient.
"Licorice. The Greek word glykyrrhiza, meaning "sweet root," gave rise to the Latin name...for
licorice, which is the condensed juice from the roots of this Old World plant. A native of the
Middle east, licorice was employed by the ancient Egyptians in medicinal preparations. Today, it
is used in candy, to flavor liquors, and in the manufacture of tobacco. It addition, there is
American licorice, G. Lepidota, a wild licorice of North America with roots that were cooked by
Native Americans, who also nibbled on the raw roots as a treat."
"Liquorice, aromatic root native to southern Russia and central Asia. Liquorice was familiar in the
classical Mediterranean and had medicinal uses. In particular, sweet protropos wine, whether
Scybelite or Theran, formed the basis of a medicinal wine in which liquorice was an ingredient,
according to Galen. It was also an ingredient in a compound which was used for doctoring young
wine to give it age: Damegeron supplies a recipe. By late Roman times liquorice was grown
plentifully in northern Anatolia."
"Liquorice (or licorice), Glycyrrhiza glabra, a small leguminous plant whose thick roots, up to
about 1 m (40") long, and inderground runners contain a very sweet compound called
glycyrrhizin. In its pure form this is 50 times sweeter than ordinary sugar; but the plant also
contains bitter substances which partly mask the sweet taste. The name liquorice' is a corruption
of the original Greek name glycorrhiza, meaning sweet root', which is also an old English
name.The plant, in one form or another, grows wild in parts of Asia and southern
Europe...Cultivation in western Europe seems to have begun on a significant scale in the 16th
century...Liquorice was used as a flavouring and colouring in a number of sweet foods including
gingerbread; in stout and other dark beers. However, it is probably in confectionery that liquoirce
has found its most extensive and attractive culinary use....[a] traditional British liquorice
confections goes by the name of Pontefract cakes, or Yorkshire pennies, little shiny black
liquorice sweets...made in Pontefract, in Yorkshire, which has been the centre of
liquorice-growing in England for many centuries. The origins of liquorice growing in Pontefract,
popularly
attributed to the monks of a local monastery, are unknown. However, liquorice was being grown
there on a large scale by the mid-17th century..."
"Liquorice...is the pungent root of a small European plant of the pea family. It was used as a
flavouring in ancient times...and has been known in Britain since at least the early thirteenth
century, introduced via Spain from the Arabs. In medieval times and up until the seventeenth
century it was commonly used, either whole or ground up, for flavouring cakes, puddings, drinks,
etc...Nowadays, however, it is far more familiar in the form of a black sweet, made from the
evaporated juice of the liquoice root. Earliest examples of this include the pontefract cake, a
small disc-shaped pastille of liquorice, but over the past 60 or 70 years a far more varied
repertoire of liquorice sweets has emerged, including the liquorice bootlace...[and] liquorice
allsorts."
ABOUT LIQUORICE IN THE 19TH CENTURY:
"Liquorice and Liquorice Root. Liquorice is a long and creeping root, procured from a plant of
the pod-bearing tribe. It is cultivated in England, but is a native chiefly of Spain and of Southern
Europe. The extract of the root is known as "black sugar," "stick liquorice," "Spanish juice," or
"hard extract of liquorice." It forms the basis of several kinds of lozenges, and is added generally
to soothing drinks. It is employed, as every one knows, as a demulcent remedy in coughs and
other complaints. Even when used in considerable quantitiy it does not disorder the stomach, or
even create thirst like common sugar."
"Liquorice. The black mass which comes on the market in rolls is the boiled juice of the liquorice
plant which grows in all parts of the world. It is most commonly done up in sticks, is dry and
brittle, and to be soluble in water it should be pure. It is adulterated to such and extent that the
pure article is scarce. A mixture of a little of the juice with the poorest kind of gum arabic, starch
and flour, is what is generally put on the market for liquorice. Its principal use is in medicine, and
it is extensively used in the manufacture of tobacco and liquors, especially to give color and flavor
to porter and brown stout."
The 1911 edition of this book makes only a passing mention of licorice as
candy.
Recipes for making
syrup of
licorice & licorice
paste, 1864
Medicinal aspects of
Liquorice
Recommended reading:
Related foods? Late 19th century Dolly mixtures/licorice allsorts & Good & Plenty.
Food historians tell us the art of boiling sugar into hard candy is an ancient practice.
Such concoctions have always been flavored, colored, and shaped according to
popular taste. They have also been used for medicinal purposes (like the cough drops
we know today). The word lollipop makes its way into English print in the last quarter of
the 18th century, though the meaning is somewhat different from the product we know
today. It is interested to note that the insertion of sticks into hard candy is traced only to
the beginning of the 20th century. One possible explanation? Modern machinery.
"Sugar candy...both the etymology of the term sugar candy and the methods given in early
recipes for making it indicate an ancient origin. Sugar candycan be traced back through Persian
quand to Sanskrit khanda, maning sugar in pieces. The fact that the word has such an ancient
derivation shows just what a desirable and uncommon item sugar candy was as it travelled from
culture to culture."
"When sugar first became known in Europe it was a rare and costly commodity, valued mainly for
its supposed medicinal qualities and finding its place in the pharmacopoeia of the medieval
apothecary...Sugar gradually became more widely available in Europe during the Middle Ages. In
Britain it was considered to be an excellent remedy for winter colds. It might be eaten in the form
of candy crystals...or it might be made into little twisted sticks which were called in Latin penida,
later Anglicized to pennets. The tradition of penida survives most clearly in American stick candy
which is similarly twisted and flavoured with essences supposed to be effective against colds, such
as oil of wintergreen."
"Lollipop. The word lollipop is first recorded in 1784, in a January issue of the
London Chronicle...At this stage...lollipops were simply sweets (a meaning the
abbreviated lolly retains in Australia and New Zealand), and it does not seem to have
been until the early twentieth century that they gained their now quintessential
characteristic, the stick...As for the origin of lollipop itself, that is not altogether clear;
the explanation usually given is that it was based on lolly an obsolete northern
[English] term for the tongue (so called because it lolls' out.)"
"Lollipop...The term lolly is an 18th century-century one for mouth, so a lollipop was
something that one popped into one's mouth. It did not necessarily mean a sweet with a
stick, as became usual later. A few old-fashioned boiled sweets sold by British
confectioners are still called lollies though they are stickless....In the USA the other
end of the word (pop) has been used as the bais for the...term popsicle."
"Lollipop. A hard candy attached to a stick usually made of rolled paper (1785). It is a
favorite children's snack and has been so since it was introduced in England in the
1780s. The name comes from an English dialect word, "lolly," "tongue," and the "pop" is
probably associated with the sound made when the candy is withdrawn from the
mouth."
Instructions for making these sweets are included in professional confectioners' texts.
There were special machines for achieving perfect shapes and inserting the sticks.
Skuse's Complete Confectioner [London:1890s] has several recipes for boiled
sugar [hard] candies. Most of these were shaped as sticks, drops, rocks, and balls.
They came in a variety of flavors and colors. There is no mention of inserting sticks into
any of these creations. There is also a small section devoted to "boiled sugar toys."
These candies were shaped with molds. According to Skuse, animal shapes were very
popular. There is also instruction for making three-dimensional [hollow] candy whistles.
The earliest "recipe" for lollipops [with a stick] we have is from 1918/1919:
"Lolly Pops.
The history of marmalade, jams, jellies, conserves and preserves is fascinating, connected, and complicated. Marmalade, as we know it today, is generally made with oranges. Food historians confirm this was not always the case. You will find our notes (with selected historic recipes) here:
"Marmalade, in Britain, refers to a jam-like preserve made from the bitter, or Seville, orange. The inclusion of the orange peel, cut into thin 'chips' or shreds, is
characteristic of this preserve. 'Marmalades' based on other citrus fruits, such as lime or lemon, are made as is ginger marmalade. However, orange marmalade is
perceived as the archtype (although not the prototype), and orange marmalade, with toast, is part of the 20th-century concept of the traditional English breakfast.
The evolution of marmalade is a complicated story...Marmelada was the Portuguese name for a sweet, solid, quince paste...This luxury good was imported to
Britain by the laste 15th cnetuy, to be used as a medicine or a sweetmeat. Clear versions were known as cotignac (France) or quiddony (England). Recipes for
quiddonies and thick quince marmalades of this sort are frequent in 16th- and 17th-century English cookery books. Lemons and bitter oranges had also been
imported to medieval and Tudor England. These...were pulped into stiff 'conserves' and were called, by analogy with the Portuguese product, 'marmalades'. They
were set in wooden boxes, or moulded in fancy shapes, to form part of the dessert or banquet course. Other fruits, such as camsons, apples, pears, and peaches
were also made into marmalades. All these marmalades were relatively solid confections, to be cut into slices and eaten from the fingers, not at all like moderrn
marmalade. The 18th century saw a new developement; finely cut peel, the precursor of the modern product. There is a strong traditional belief that Sctoland was
responsible for the creation of the new jellied orange marmalade. If some of the tales told in support of this belief tax credibility, never mind, it 'feels' right. At this
time marmalade was still percieved as a suitable item for dessert in England; but Scottish recipes for the mid-18th century used a higher proportion of water, giving
a 'spreadable' consistency. In fact marmalade does appear to have been used as a breakfast spread at a much earlier date in Scotalnd than in England. Meanwhile
, and well into the 19th century, thick quice marmalades continued to appear in recipe books, so at this time the term 'marmamalde' was used in a wider range of
senses than it is now...It was during the latter part of the 19th century that jams...became the subject of a rapidly growing industry, mainly because sugar became
much cheaper. Bread and jam became a cheap source of noursihment for the working classes. And marmalade recieved a boost, since the jam factories could
produce orange marmalade in winter at not much greater cost than that of jams made with home-grown fruits during the summer. Marmalade...had more of a luxury
image than jam, and was exported to be used on breadfast tables throughout the British Empire...The range of differnt marmalades now being made in Britain,
including some based on combinations of several citrus fruits, dark and light ones, chunky ones, and some with just slivers of peel in a clear jelly...is vast..."
"The word marmalade originally signified 'quince jam.' It comes via French from Portuguese marmelada, a derivative of marmelo, 'quince'. This in turn goes
ultimately to melimelon, a Greek term, meaning literally 'honey-apple', which was applied to the fruit of an apple gree grafted on to a quince...In the fifteenth and
early sixteenth centuries such quince preserve was known in English as chare de quince or chardecoynes...but in 1524 we find the first referernce to marmalade, in
an account of the presentation of 'one box of marmalade' to the king by a certain 'Hull of Exeter'. Throughout the sixteenth century its main ingredient appears to
have remained quince, but the seventeenth century saw a sudden diversity, with fruits such as plums, damsons, and even straweberries and dates being used for
marmalade (at this time citrus fruits preserved in sugar was still generally called succade...In 1767, Hannah Glasse gave a recipe for 'marmalade of cherries', and as
late as 1845 Eliza Acton in her Modern Cookery for Private Families was giving directions on how to make a 'marmamade'. As this last phase implies, marmalade
was from earliest times not the soft spreadable confection of today, but a firm sweetmeat that could be cut with a knife, and was eated as part of the dessert course
of a meal. The use of citrus fruits for marmalade seems to have begun in the seventeenth cnetury, and in the middle of that century we find the first references to the
addition of sliced peel. But it is not really until the middle of the nineteeth century that this ingredient had so ousted all others that it became safe to assume that
marmalade meant, essentially, 'orange marmalade'...In other European languages, such as French and German, the word still means generally 'jam' or 'preserve'...
but the notion of 'citrus preserve' has become so firmly ensconced in English that in 1981 and EC edict declared that the term marmalade could not be applied to
a product made other than with oranges, lemons, or grapefruit."
Recomemnded reading: The Book of Marmalade/C. Anne Wilson
A SURVEY OF SELECTED RECIPES
[1829]
[1845]
[1861]
The history of the marshmallow quite interesting. Did you know this confection (albeit in a very
different form) dates back to Ancient times? The very first "marsh mallows" were plants [Althaea
officinalis] indigenous to Europe and Asia. The flowers were favored by the Ancient Greeks and
Romans because they were considered to be healthful. Platina in his De Honesta
Voluptuate et Valetudine [On Right Pleasure and Good Health] (an Italian cookery text
published in the late 15th Century)
devotes Book IV, Section 8 to "On the Seasoning of Mallow," in which he outlines the botanical
history and healing properties of this particular plant. Marshmallows, progenitor of the fluffy
white confection we eat today [which, by the way contains NO marsh mallow], originated in
France sometime during the middle of the nineteenth century.
"Marshmallows or Guimauves are a form of sweetmeat for which the confectioner is indebted to
the pharmacist. The original Pate de Guimauve was a pectoral remedy. It was made, as the name
implies, from a decoction of marshmallow root, with gum to bind the ingredients together, beaten
egg white to give lightness and to act as a drying agent, while sugar was incorporated to make the
whole palatable. Marshmallow has come down to us basically unchanged except that it no longer
contains extract of marshmallow. The marjority of marshmallows are made with egg albumen and
gelatin, some are made with all of one and none of the other..."
"Marshmallows are one of the earliest confections know to humankind. Today's marshmallows
come in many forms, from solid...to semi-liquid---to the creme-like or as an ice cream topping.
Originally...marshmallows were made from the rood sap of the marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis)
plant. It is a genus of herb that is native to parts of Europe, north Africa, and Asia. Marsh
mallows grow in marshes and other damp areas...The first marshmallows were made by boiling
pieces of the marsh mallow root pulp with sugar until it thickened. After is had thickened, the
mixture was strained and cooled. As far back as 2000BC, Egyptians combined the marsh
mallow root with honey. The candy was reserved for gods and royalty.
Modern marshmallow confections were first made in France around 1850. This first method of
manufacture was expensive and slow because it involved the casting and molding of each
marshmallow. French candy makers used the mallow root sap as a binding agent for the egg
whites, corn syrup, and water. The fluffy mixture was heated and poured into the corn starch in
small molds, forming the marshmallows. At this time, marshmallows were still not mass
manufactured. Instead, they were made by confectioners in small stores or candy companies.
By 1900, marshmallows were available for mass consumption, and they were sold in tins as penny
candy. Mass production of marshmallows became possible with the invention of the starch mogul
system of manufacture in the late 19th century...
In 1955, there were nearly 35 manufacturers of marshmallows in the United States. About this
time, Alex Doumak, of Doumak, Inc., patented a new manufacturing method called the extrusion
process. This invention changed the history of marshmallow production and is still used today. It
now only takes 60 minutes to produce a marshmallow. Today, there are only three manufacturers
of marshmallows in the United States, Favorite Brands International (Kraft marshmallows),
Doumak, Inc. and Kidded & Company."
A sidebar to the information contained in this books (written by Donna R. Bearden) adds:
"In the early 20th century, marshmallows were considered a child's confection, dispensed as penny
candy at general stores along with licorice whips and peppermint drops. But through a fortuitous
connection with other popular foods and some clever marketing, marshmallows would soon
become a staple ingredient at pot-luck dinners, family get-togethers, and even elegant parties....A
perusal through twentieth-century cookbooks and recipe booklets reveals that marshmallows
usually served as an ingredient in cakes, candies, and desserts....Perhaps the greatest distinction
for marshmallows occurred as a result of their advantageous connection with gelatin salads and
desserts, which rose in popularity during the 1920s and 1930s. Recipe booklets for Jell-O and
Knox Gelatin from that time include recipes that called for marshmallows on almost every
page--recipes like banana fluff, lime mallow sponge, cocoa tutti frutti, and paradise pudding."
ABOUT MALLOWS/MARSH MALLOWS
"Mallow, a common wild plant of Europe, Mallow was a potherb in Greece and Rome, more
useful as such to the poor than to the rich, and particularly useful because it allevieated hunger.
An aside by Lucian suggests that it was used, like lettuce nowadays, as a garnish on trays of food
at banquets. It also had medicinal uses...Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis), Greek althaia, Latin
hibiscus, a plant resembling mallow, was used to treat wounds, and was an ingredient in medicinal
wine taken for coughs."
"Marshmallow. The name of both a plant an confection. The former...[is] a common plant of
Europe and Asia, is related to the common mallow but looks more like the hollyhock. Although
its leaves are edible, the chief use of the plant lies in its roots, which yield a mucilaginous
substance which is the traditional basis for the sweet confections known as marshmallow but has
now been almost entirely replaced by gum arabic."
More on the medicinal
properties of marshmallows, A Modern Herbal, Mrs. M. Grieve [1931].
RECIPES
[1864] Complete Confectioner, Eleanor Parkinson
[1875]
"Marshmallow water. A concoction of marshmallow is effacacious in the cure of severe coughs,
catarrhs, &c. Cut the roots into thin slices, and pour over them boiling water (about a pint to an
ounce of the root), cleansing and peeling off the outer skin before infusion. The water may be
flavoured with the squeezed juice and grated rind of an orange, and sweetened with honey or
brown sugar-candy. Marshmallow leaves are eaten dressed like lettuce, as a salad. Time, two
hours to infuse."
[1908]
[1923]
[1935]
Syrup of
Marshmallows, The Complete Confectioner, Eleanor Parkinson
[Lippincott:Philadelphia] 1864 (p. 23)
Pate de Guimauve
Marshmallow cream/creme Prior to that
marshmallow creme-type products were made by cooks at home. Many late 19th century
marshmallow paste recipes produced solid foods. The first spreadable marshmallow creme recipes
we find in American used store-bought marshmallows. This substance was used for cake filling.
The earliest mention we find of marshmallow creme in an American cookbook is from Fannie
Farmer's Boston School Cook Book, 1896:
Related foods? Scooter pies, Moon pies
& Mallomars, Rice Krispies treats, Nabisco Marshmallow Sandwiches, & s'mores.
Food historians tell us marzipan, a paste composed of ground almonds
and sugar, probably originated in the Middle East and introduced to
Europe in the late Middle Ages. There is much scholarly debate regarding the etymology of this
word. Hense, the true origins are obscure. Marzipan is well documented from the Renaissance to
present. One of the special features of this particular confection through time is its ability to be
sculpted into fantastic shapes.
According to the British food historians, marzipan can be placed in England at the end of the 15th
century. This conclusion is drawn from documented print evidence. Certainly, words (as foods)
enter a culture before they are recorded in print. If you are interested in a detailed discussion on
the complicated history of the word "marzipan" ask your librarian to help you find "Venice and
the Spice Trade," Medieval Arab Cookery, Maxime Rodinson, A.J. Arberry & Charles
Perry [Prospect Books:Devon] 2001 (p. 211-3)
"Marzipan, a paste made from ground almonds, was orignally called marchpane in English--or
martspane, or mazapane, or marchpan. These were the best efforts English-speakers could make
at the word when it was borrowed, either via early modern French "marcepain" or from its
source, Italian "marzapane," at the end of the fifteenth century."
"Marchpane, or marzipan was a discovery of the later Middle Ages, dependent as it was upon the
union of ground almonds with sugar...One of the earliest uses for the paste was in
subtleties.
These were figures of men, animals, trees, castles and so forth made from sugar paste and jelly,
and placed before an admiring audience at the end of each course of a great medieval feast. Often
the figures had an allegorical meaning, and bore written mottoes appropriate to the occasion. The
subtleties varied from simple depictions of a gilded eagle, or a swan upon a green stork, carrying
mottoes in their bills, to such complexities as a portrayal of the Trinity in the sun of gold with a
crucifix in His hand attended by saints and the kneeling figure of the new Archbishop of
Canterbury, for whose enthronement feast the subtelty had been made. When they had been
sufficiently applauded they were dismantled and eaten.
In the fifteenth century a marchpane began to emerge as an object in its own right. And by
Elizabeth I's reign, when the subtlety was becoming archiaic, a marchpane was regularly
produced as the chief showpiece at the banquet or dessert course served to guests at the end of a
meal.
It was made of ground almonds and sugar on a base of wafer biscuits, and was formed into a
round (a hoop of green hazelwood somethimes helped shape it). Ye may while it is moist, strike
it full of comfits of sundry colours, in a comely order...The frosting of the marchpane with sugar
and rosewater to make it shine like ice was an important part of the preparation; and so was the
gilding with decorative shapes in gold leaf..."
RECIPES
[1660]
[1753]
"To make March-pane unboiled.
Take a pound of almonds, blanch them and beat them in rose-water; when they are finely beaten,
put to them a half pound of sugar, beat and searched, and work it to a paste; spread some on
wafers, and dry it in an oven; when it is cold, have ready the white of an egg beaten with
rose-water, and double refined sugar. Let it be as thick as butter, then draw your march-pane
thro'it,
and put it in the oven: it will ice in a little time, then keep them for use. If you have a mind to have
your march-pane large, cut it when it is rolled out by a pewter-plate, and edge it about the top like
a tart, and bottom with wafer-paper, and set it in the oven, and ice it as aforesaid: when the icing
rises, take it out, and strew coloured comfits on it, or serve sweetmeats on it."
[1753]
[1749-1799]
ABOUT ALMONDS
"Almond, kernel of the fruit of the Prunus dulcis. The fruit resembles a meagre peach, but
is inedible. The kernel is used, sliced or ground, in cooking. Some trees produce bitter almonds;
these have to be roasted before eating to eliminate their poisonous prussic acid. Almonds were
being collected from the wild by the inhabitants of Franchthi Cave by 10,000 BC, and in Turkey,
Syria and Palestine by that time or soon afterwards. Cultivation was probably under way by the
third millenium BC: earliest evidence comes from Jordan. The almond was among the earliest of
the domesticated fruit trees of the eastern Mediterranean, since, unlike some of the others, it can
be propagated from seed...At Greek banquets they they were frequent constitutent of dessert...in
Roman cuisine they sometimes served as a flavouring...Bitter almonds were placed in sacci,
bouquets, and to impart their flavour and medicinal properties to wine as it was served. These
properties were widely reputed to include the prefention of drunkenness...Sweet almonds produce
a mild-flavoued oil...Both kinds of almonds, and their oils, were important medicinally."
"Almonds are the fruit seeds of Prunus dulcis...a tree closely related to the peach and the plum,
and are said to be native to the Mediterranean region and western Asia, wehre (like many other
nuts) they doubtless helped to sustain our hunting-and-gathering forebears. Perhaps the oldest, as
well as the most widely known, of the world's nut crops, almonds were first cultivated in Europe
by the Greeks, are mentioned frequently in the Old Testament, and were a favorite of the Romans,
whose sugared almonds may have been among the first sweetmeats in history. Recipes
incorporating almond "flour" date from the Middle Ages in Europe, a period when almond "milk"
was also used--as a liquid substitute for milk and eggs on days of fasting. The Spaniards brought
the almond to the New World, where it is now grown extensively in California...There are two
types of almonds: sweet and bitter. Nuts of the latter type contain prussic acid and thus are toxic
when raw; these must be blanched and roasted before being processed into an oil, a paste, or an
extract that is sued to flavor liqueurs and some confections. Sweet almonds...are eaten whole, as
well as blanched, slivered, chopped, diced, and ground for pastries...Almond paste is the soul of
macaroons and marzipan."
"The oldest mention of almond cultivation is in the Bible. Aaron's rod, which miraculously
bore flowers and fruit, was of almond wood (Numbers 17:8). The ancient Greeks cultivated
almonds, and their name for the nut, amygdalon, had become, via Latin, the botanical name of the
species and, in corrupted form, is the name in modern European languages...In classical times
Phoenician traders introduced its cultivation into Spain; and it was being grown in the south of
France...as early as the 8th century...Uses of almonds are in many instances of great antiquity.
They were of early importance in early Arabic and medieval European cookery, partly as a source
of the almond milk which was used in early versions of blancmange...since then, the main
importance of the nut has been to the confectionery industry. Such products as marzipan and
nougat and macaroon all depend on it. The Spanish range of almond-flavored cakes, biscuits, etc.
is probably the most extensive in the world."
About almonds in china
"Nuts play a minor part in Chinese food...Most important are the kernels of apricots...Special varieties with uninteresting fruit are grown soley for their large, sweet,
nontoxic seeds, which are used as almonds are used in the West. True almonds are barely known and not normally used."
"Chinese Almond. Domestication of the almond, Prunus amygdalus, is usually placed in an area stretching from the eastern Mediterranean to Central Asia, where it
is found in the wild. Likely it was domesticated by the third millennium B.C. or earlier...The early Chinese knew of the tree and its kernels in Persia and other lands
to the west. They also imported almond kernels, as among the tribute sent from Turkestan to China in T'ang times. The tree itself was reported by the Arab
merchant Soleiman to be cultivated in China in the mid-ninth century...and Li Shi-chen late in the sixteenth-century wrote of it as growing everywhere 'east of the
Pass' (that is, in Kansu and Shensi)...Though the above would seem to leave little doubt that almonds had been cultivated at least somewhere in China or its
margins, there has nevertheless been controversy among Western scholars as to whether, at least in traditional times, almonds were actually grown there and
whether the kernels that foreigners in China often called 'almonds' were almonds or apricot kernels. Adding to the confusion were the similarities in appearance,
taste, and use between apricot and almond kernels, which sometimes led the Chinese, on their part, to call the almond kernel by the name 'apricot kernel.'...
Laufer...who has provided the most detailed analysis of the historical evidence, was convinced that the almond had been cultivated in China in the past. He also
presented evidence from the Chinese literature suggesting that it was still cultivated there in the nineteenth century, but allowed the possibility that almond cultivation
'is now extinct in China.' Other authorities, among them naturalists and botanists with extensive field experience in traditional China, are more firm in their conclusion
that almonds were not cultivated there. To this writer, it seems reasonable to believe that the almond could not have been widely cultivated in China and been
missed by so many widely-traveled, careful observers. Yet the evidence presented by Laufer seems to leave the possibility open that the almond continued to be
cultivated in some places, especially in the far northwest."
Almonds in Chinese cuisine
"It would, however, have been of quite minor importance overall, with the overwhelming share of the kernels known to foreigners as 'almonds' being in fact apricot
kernels. This fits with H.L. Li's statement on the matter...that real almonds are scarcely known; and with Meyer's conclusion...that the 'almond cake' commonly
served foreigners in traditional China was in fact made with kernels of the apricot...There are...several varieties of P. armenaica grown primarily for their seed in
China. The fruit of the best variety contains a large stone with a fairly-soft shell and sweet kernel, and may be served as a snack, sometimes sugared, along with
raisins and other kinds of nuts, or ground into almond flour which is made into almond cakes or cookies or into a thin porridge. On occasion, such kernels may be
salted, and in appearance and flavor are just like real almond. Another variety, P. armeniaca has a bitter-tasting kernel that contains prussic acid and must be used
in small amounts, as for flavoring sweets, or in making 'almond soup' or 'almond tea,' a drink commonly sold along the streets...As for the preparation of such
almond soup, Meyer noted that first rice was boiled until soft, then pounded and mixed with water until it had the consistency of milk. Then a few bitter almonds
were ground up and blended in along with sugar, and the soup served hot. The soup, which was tasty and stimulating, was commonly consumed by the Chinese
just before going to bed. Such 'almond soup' or 'almond tea' was well-liked as a snack not only among the people of North China but in the Ch'ing court, was also
believed effective against sore throat...There was also a popular dish, found among those of Ch'ing court, called 'Almond Curd,' a cold gelatin dessert made of
water, agar-agar, ground almonds, and sugar...Such almond soup and almond curd (also called almond float, almond lake, or almond junket), as made today in
China, may include almond or vanilla extract, milk, and/or fruit of one sort or another...Prepared in a different, somewhat more elaborate way is the Cantonese
dessert 'Fried Almond Custard'...Chinese almonds are also commonly used in other ays, as in candies, cakes, and cookies, and in a broad range of main dishes,
such as Cantonese 'Red and White Chicken with Almonds' and the Szechwanese 'Almond Duck'."
What are "Jordan Almonds?"
"The well-known varieties include Jordan (nothing to
do with the country of that name, but a corruption of the Spanish "jardin", meaning garden.)"
"There are essentially two types of almond: bitter almonds, which contain prussic acid by can be used in very sparing quantities as
a flavoring, and ordinary eating almonds. Of the latter, Jordan almonds hare probably the most highly regarded variety. Their long thin
shape may have inspired the comparison of oriental women's eyes to almonds. They have no connection whatsoever with Jordan (they are
mainly grown in Spain, in fact); their name is an alteration of Middle English jaren ('garden') almond."
"Of the important Shelled Almonds, the best known are the Jordan and Valencia, chiefly from Malaga, Spain. Jordan Almonds are
long and plump and pointed at one end...They are highly esteemed both as a dessert item and for confectionery purposes."
When were Jordan Almond trees introduced to the USA?
"The Department of Agriculture has at last succeeded in securing some Jordan Almond trees, in the exportation of which has been
rigorously prohibited by Spain for some years. The Government will now experiment with the trees to determine the best localities
for growing them. This species of almond is regarded by the agricultural authorities as the finest in the world, but only its
fruit has heretofore reached this country, the trees having been jealously guarded in Spain. The bush has been forwarded here
by the Agricultural Department's agent, who is seaching in Spain for rare plants."
Why are sugar coated almonds traditional wedding favors?
"The portability of comfits led to a gentler custom of handing them out as gifts. In 1702, Massailot mentioned placing on the
banquet table little baskets of dry sweetmeats decorated with ribbons: one for each guest, to be taken home and shared with the
family. it is echoed by the gift of 'favours', little bags of sugared almonds, to wedding guests in southern Europe. Not just wedding
guests: different colours of almond indicate different celebrations, a christening, an engagement, and anniversary (although some--
for instance graduations--may be inspired by modern marketing rather than long tradition)."
"...sugared almonds, one of the oldest sweetmeats in history, do perhaps come from ancient Rome. Metz, Nancy, Paris, Verdun
and Toulouse are among the cities and towns of France famous for their sugared almonds. Earlier still, however, the Romans of classical
times distributed them at public and private ceremonies. Sugared almonds are mentioned amnong the gifts given to great men in accounts
of receptions...In fifteenth-century Cambrai, Marguerite of Burgundy, at her wedding to Guillaume IV of Hainault, wished to have
sugared almonds given 'to the common people by her comfit-maker Pierre Host...'"
"Mr. Salvatore Ferrara came to America from Nola, Italy, in 1900 and founded Ferrara Pan Candy Company in 1908. At the time of
his immigration from Italy, Mr. Ferrara was a confectioner, skilled in the art of making...sugar coated candy almonds. Sugar
coated candy almonds are otherwise knwon as "confetti" in Italy and other parts of Europe. These candy-coated almonds were also called
Jordan Almonds or almond dragees, and they continue to be a tradition at many weddings and celebrations. Early on,
then they were covered with white sugar, they were a candy that symbolized purity and fertility...From 1908 to 1919, the sugar
coated almond business grew. Mr. Ferrara was soon shipping his classic, always fresh and in-demad product all over the
Midwest."
Almond symbolism
"The almond tree originated in the Middle East and western Asia, and since prehistory people
considrered it a symbol of sweetness and fragility. In the spring, the tree was one of the first to
bloom, and late frosts could easily destroy its delicate buds. If the almond tree survived the frosts,
it soon became a bestower of a wealth of gifts. In addition to providing nuts, oil, and shells for
fuel, the almond tree was aesthetically pleasing, with lovely flowers and beautiful leaves. So the
almond tree inspired worship....The identification of the almond as father or as mother reflected
the fact that almond blossoms herald the spring and thus the birth of vegetation. Because the
almond tree blossoms suddenly, the Hebrews considered it a symbol of haste, and because the
almond tree that survives the frosts bestows gifts of nuts and oil, they considrered it a symbol of
vigilance...People revered the almond tree as a provider--of life, of love, and of happiness."
Related foods? Marzipan, brittle, pralines & Mexican
wedding cakes.
Ancient Greeks and Romans valued
mint for several medical reasons. Two of these were aiding digestion and freshining one's breath.
Throughout time, mint was used to flavor many differenty types of foods. Mint candies, as we know them
today, date back to Renaissance times (when sugar was readily available). Mint-flavored chocolate candies
date back to the second half of the 19th century (when solid chocolate was manufactured as candy.)The practice of pairing
lamb with mint capitalizes on mint's soothing digestive properties.
"Mint. The common name of most plants of the genus Mentha. There are two dozen species, and many
hundreds of varieties...The superstitions and beliefs associated with mint are often of ancient origin and vary
with different cultures...In Rome, Pliny recommended that a wreath of mint was a good thing for students to
wear since it was thought to 'exhilarate their minds'...Mints, usually spearmint, are used, fresh or dried, to
make jams, jellies, and sauces, to accompany meat, fish, or vegetable dishes...In England mint sauce is
served with roast lamb. Gerard (1633) wrote that 'the smell of mint does stir up the minde and the taste to a
greedy desire of meat'. Certainly the mint flavor is sweet and refreshing; and mint has digestive properties,
so the habit of taking an 'after-dinner mint' has some foundation."
"Mint, aromatic plant of Europe and elsewhere. Mint was well known in classical Greece and in Roman
Italy, where, according to Pliny, it was a scent familiar at coutnry feasts. In Greece, however, mint is
seldome mentioned in the context of food and dining."
"Mints. A colloquial English term from any small sugar confectionery item flavoured with mint, especially
boiled sugar sweets...Mint has a long therapeutic history as an aide to digestion and a breath
freshener."
"Sugar was considered to have health benefits; it was also useful for preserving decoctions of herbs and
other physic such as flowers and roots. It made bitter herbs more palatable and, formed into candy, allowed
the slow release of soothing essences for sore throats and coughs. Recipes of this kind were probably the
ancestors of several sweets which have survived as regional specialties: cough candy, Kendal Mint Cake,
and Scottish tablet...It has a long precedent, and is a survivor of many other candied medicaments, most of
which have vanished. Cures for other ailments were sometimes administered in candy, as a recipe from A
Queens Delight shows: Sugar of Wormwood, Mint, Anniseed, or any other of that kinde. Take double
refined sugar; and do but wet it in fair water, or Rose-water and boil it to a candy, when it is almost boiled
takeit off and stir till it be cold; the drop in three or four drops of the Oyles of whatsoever you will make, and
stir it well, then drop it on a board, being before fitted with sugar.'...The qualities of mint as a digestive, and
the alternatives...suggest the recipe was intended to comfort the digestion. The recipe is an early published
example of the use of mint in sweetmeats in Britain. This flavour, not a distinctive feature of Polos, mint
imperials, spearmint gum, Glacier Mints and many others, appears to have become popular in the middle
of the last century. A factor may have been ready availability of good-quality mit oil from Mitcham in Surrey,
at a time when sugar confectionery was rapidly commercializing. Mint oil was reliable, probably relatively
cheap, and a strong flavour which was easy to handle, by small-as well as large-scale confectioners.
Candied peppermint was one of several simple mint-flavored confections given in a small, provincial book
in the1820s. Mint-flavored candy is still being made by a similar process to the seventeeth-century recipe
given above (but without the rosewater) and sold under the name of Kendal Mint Cake. Why this confection
should survive as a specialty of a small town in north-west England is not clear. The first record of an
association between product and town occurs in the mid-nineteeth century."
Why do we serve mint (sauce, jelly) with lamb?
"Mint was grown and pickled in vinegar by the Romans, who introduced the plant into England.
Throughout the Middle Ages, the herb was commonly grown in convent and monestary gardens
and used extensively in cooking and medicine. Mints, usually spearmint, are used, fresh or dried,
to make jams, jellies, and sauces, to accompany meat, fish, or vegetable dishes. The leaves are
also used to make teas, an Arab custom especially noticeable in North Africa...In England mint
sauce is served with roast lamb. Gerard (1633) wrote that the smell of mint does stir up the
minde and the taste a greedy desire of meat'. Certainly the mint flavour is sweet and refreshing
and mint has digestive properties, so the habit of taking an after-dinner mint' has some
foundation."
"Mint is an aromatic herb that people have used since ancient times both as a condiment and as a
medicinal. It was highly valued by the ancient Hebrews, the Greeks, and the Romans, all of
whom used mint much more frequnetly than people do today. Mint was alluring, but at the same
time satisfying. The ancients considered it an aphrodesiac, yet also believed that it made women
sterile and men impotent."
"Lamb is a fatty meat, and most cuisines recognize the need for some kind of acid ingredient or
sauce to 'cut' this. In England, mint sauce, composed of chopped fresh mint, sugar, and vinegar,
has been the accepted accompaniement for roast lamb since the mid-19th century...Around the
North Mediterranean, including Spain, the Balkans and Greece, sauces for lamb are thickened
with egg yolks beaten up with lemon juice."
Americans continued the English tradition of pairing of lamb with mint jelly.
Food historians credit General Foods chemist William A. Mitchell for this unique confection. His 1956 patent "Gelatin Derivates and Their Preparation." [number: 2834771], a method for combining carbon dioxide with hard candy, made Pop Rocks possible.
It took General Foods nearly 20 years to figure out how to market Mitchell's carbonated consumable. Enter Pop Rocks, first test marketed in Arizona, February 1976. The candies were soon bootlegged and eventually sank into the realm of urban legend. When rumors warned consumers mixing this product with soda made people's stomaches explode sales plumetted. GF dropped Pop Rocks, divesting the loss leader to another company. But you can't keep an explosive idea under wraps. Especially if it's tasty, sweet, and cheap. The new trademark owner successfully reintroduced the candy a few years later. Today, Pop Rocks are alive and well, thriving in both current and nostalgia lines. They celebrated their 40th anniversary in 2006.
According to the records of the US Patent & Trademark Office, Pop Rocks were registered by General Foods Corporation June 15, 1976:
The earliest print reference we find for test marketing is this:
" One of the great challenges of modern industry has been the problem of soda pop. Most of it is water, which means that most of the money spent to transport the
stuff from bottling joint to store has been spent to transport water. How much nicer if the pop and its bubbles could be powdered. General Foods' efforts to solve
the problem of powdered pop have led to the already legendary Pop Rocks and Space Dust candies, wich are still being test marketed, and black-marketed by
kids where they aren't available. The candies fizz, releasing carbonation in the mouth or in the hand when they come in contact with moisture. While General Foods
wrestles with the problem, Eugene Dana, president of Nellson Candies, is testing his solution, Advertising Age reported. His Carb-O-Nated powdered mix cones
come in cherry, lemon-lime, grape, and orange. It is being tested in Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. Six packets, each of which makes a 10-ounce drink, retail
for 99 cents, one cent an ounce chaper than buying a name brand six pack of canned soda pop in Chicago. No cola yet, but give them time."
"With nothing but word-of-mouth advertising behind them, General Foods' Space Dust and Pop Rocks carbonated candies are outselling most--if not all--major
candy brands 'in any makret where they are introduced,' according to a GF exec. But the unusual candies, which cause a bursting, tinlging sensation in the mouth,
can be marketed only for 13-week periods at a time in order to prevent the carbonation from dissapating and spoioing the moment for kids. They are also sensitive
to heat, so GF has a policy of not introducing them in markets where the average temperature exceeds 85 degrees. GF is attempting to educate the trade about the
prdoucts because of instances where they have been 'bootlegged' into other markets. In one case, a heat in a truck carrying the prudcuts was accidentally turned
on. The gas released from several hundred Pop Rocks cases eventually blew the truck doors open. 'When that happens, you're left with just hard candy,' the exec
said. The carbon dioxide in Pop Rocks is one-tenth of the amount contained in a can of soft drink...Now that temperatures are beginning to climb across the
nation, GF has stopped selling them. When fall arrives, however, Pop Rocks and Space Dust willl reappear in much wider distribution, perhaps as many as 37
states. During a 13-week introduction, a reatailer is permitted a single order and receives one shipment. According to the GF exec, a retailer can expect to sell half
his supply within four weeks and 90% by the tenth week. The candies have been subject of much free publicity in newspapers and on network tv talk shows,
including Johnny Carson's monolog on the 'Tonight Show' April 12. Although there has been no advertising to date, Benton & Bowles has done some concept
work on the products. Pop Rocks was first tested in Flagstaff and Yuma, Ariz, in 1976. It was followed by Space Dust, whose initial test markets were in
Colorado and Arizona. Both sell for 15 cents. In February of last year, the phrase 'explore the far reaches of your mind.' was removed from packages of Space
Dust after GF received complaints that the reference seemed based on drug use. At the time, the company expressed shock that anyone would misinterpret the
phrase. The company earlier denied rumors that the patented technique used to produce Pop Rocks and Space Dust would be applied in development of a
carbonated powdered drink mix."
"General Foods has a hit with Pop Rocks and Space Dust, two forms of the hard candy with locked-in carbonation that makes an audible appearance when it his
the mouth. But despite their success, both 15-cent candies have not left test-market status, regardless of how many kids bootleg them across the country. The
problem is the manufacturer can't introduce them "in markets where the average temperature exceeds 85 degress," Advertising Age reported. Not only are kids
bootlegging them, but eager merchants are, too. And one hapless fellow lost his whole shipment wehnt he truck carrying it accidentally had its heat turned on. The
Pop Rock cargo released its carbonation and blew the truck doors open. Next fall, though, General [Foods] plans to market the candies temporarily in 37 safely
cool states, making the candies perhaps the only processed snack available soley in season."
"""It's like raining on the roof of your mouth," says a middle-aged person who tried it...""It" is Pop Rocks, a new carbonated hard candy that sizzles, snaps, pops
and tingles in your mouth, and brings grimaces, faint smiles and startled reactions from first-time tasters. "Explore the far reaches of your mind," says the package.
Since it has no apparent purpose or social significance--two key fad criteria--Pop Rocks promises to win a place in the pantheon of freaky gimmicks that infect
America from time to time. All of which brings more smiles than grimaces to General Foods, maker of Pop Rocks, which has sold "hundreds of millions" of the
packets...In fact, in true fad fashion Pop Rocks seem to be something of a hot underground item. They're being bootlegged to New York and sold on the street and
in a few stores for three and four times the normal price. Rumors about their existence and even a few samples of the 20-cent packages have reached Washington,
but exactly when the product will be on sale here, the manufacturer isn't saying. Meanwhile reports like a recent on in Advertising Age (confirmed by General
Foods) that a overheated load of Pop Rocks blew the doors open on a delivery truck have raised questions about the product's safety. Speculation that Pop Rocks
might harm the esophogus or the taste buds led NBC consumer reporter Betty Furness to take to the air recently to calm parents' fears. The secret ingredient of
General Foods' smach seller is carbon dioxide, about one-tenth the amount that's put into soft drinks to make them fizz. While a Pop Rock left on the tip of the
tongue with one's mouth open will "explode," ingredients for the product were okayed by the Food and Drug Administration before General Foods started to
test market it in 1976. Meanwhile, the company's hot product has its own unique sales difficulties. The company says Pop Rocks can't be sold in areas where the
average temperature is over 85 degreses. And sales are being suspended over the summer for the same reason. The shelf-life is also limited because the
carbonation dissapates over a period of time and then you're left with "just another hard candy." But wherever they appear, says the company, they are being
hoarded. It's not unusal to see people walk out of a store, carrying a large shopping bag filled with nothing but Pop Rocks or Star Dust (the former are large
rock-like pieces; the latter, dust-like bits.) Which explains why the candy is outselling most, if not all major candy bars "in any market where they are introduced."
General Foods says."
"The giant semi raced through the night across America from California to Brooklyn. Inside was a precious cargo whos street value in New York would be double
its West Coast price. Thousands of packs were unloaded at one distributor's warehouse, then channeled stealthily to selected candy and variety shops. Candy
shops? Yes, the cargo was destined to feed the latest kid candy craze: Pop Rocks. Says the Brooklyn distributor: "The kids sare like junkies--hungry for the stuff.
It's the fastest-moving new candy I've ever seen." The candy, so goes a Wall Street analyst's version, was born when a General Foods Corp. chemist mixed a little
"Kool Aid technology" with cargon dioxide...Crystalline in shape and so far available in three flavors (cherry, orange, grape), Pop Rocks are made of sugar, corn
syrup, milk derivative and artificial coloring and flavoring. When the small crystals of candy are placed in the mouth, tiny chambers of trapped CO2 are activated by
moisture. The result: a popping and crackling that delights kids. Pop Rocks are hard to get in most places, which only adds to their appear. General Foods markets
the candy mainly in California, although there have been other test sales around the country in the past three years. GF tries to confine sales of the candy to its test
markets, where a one-fifth-ounce package sells for 20 cents retail, but entrepreneurs have managed to obtain supplies and spirit them elsewhere, at prices up to
50c cents a package. Despite the potential demand, GF is moving cautiously before going national. Reason: although the food makes more than 400 food products,
it has never before sold a candy."
"General Foods has expanded its carbonated confection technology to a bubble gum and is testing Increda Bubble gum in a small market in the Northwest. The
company hopes the bubble gum will become more of a year-round entry than its carbonated Pop Rocks and Space Dust candies, the latter which is due to be
reintroduced under the name Cosmic Candy. GF has been marketing the candies on a cyclical basis because of their fad nature...According to sources close to the
company, GF chose a very small Northwest market to aviod bootlegging--as serious problem that has occurred with the [Pop Rock] candies. In contrast to the
more usual concern of concealing a test market because of competition, GF's worry is taht cand and gum wholesalers/distributors will buy up truckloads of the
gum to ship East. In the New York area, the candies have sold for more than triple their suggested list oruice of 15 cents. In a card shop near Advertising Age's
midtown New York office, Pop Rocks go for 50 cents a packet. Candy and gum distributors advertise in the New York Times to sell their supplies of Pop Rocks
and Space Dust to retailers. One classified ad reads, "Pop Rock. Hottest candy in the U.S. Fast turnaround--large profit, available whoesale." It's the large profit
and "consumer ripoff" that GF is hoping to avioid by concealing its test market. GF is worried taht in addition to making the test market impossible to read properly,
hijacking and subsequent high retail prices will hurt GF's image and the product's sales potential when it is offically introduced in the East. Pop Rocks was first
tested in Flagstaff and Yuma, Ariz. in 1976. It was followed by Space Dust in Colorado and Arizona. It has since been marketed sporadically in a number of
western markets, but none has been sold since the spring because GF is accumulating enough candy for a major fall introduction in as many as 37 states...The
package fods marketer recognized the fad aspect of the carbonated candies from the start. That is one reason it produces and wharehouses the candies until there
is a 13 week supply. Usually either pop Rocks or Space Dust--not both--is introduced to a market area. Nine months later, long after the firest candies have
dissappeared from the retail shelves, GF moves into the same market with the other item, and the fad begins anew...Prime targes are children under 15, who buy
the candies not so much for themselves but to watch their friends try them. After three or four packets, the effect of the carbonation on one person has reached a
saturation point, noted one source. The candies are expected to be introudced in a broad area this fall. Space Dust has been repackaged and renamed Cosmic
Candy because of compliant about its association with the drug Angel Dust. Earlier, the phrase "explore the far reaches of your mind," was removed from packages
of Space Dust after GF received compliants that the refernece seemed based on drug use. Network affiliated tv stations also expressed soem apprehension about
tv commercials. The two candies are similar, although Pop Rocks is a somewhat larger particle."
"What kind of mind thinks up products like exploding candy? "I'm basically a farmer type. I like to work with fruits and vegetables," says 67-year-old William A. Mitchell, a
silver-haired father of Pop Rocks, a crackling confection so popular that black markets have appeared in schools all over the country. Pop Rocks, a General Foods
product, is sold in most parts of the country for 20 cents a pack. That's 20 cents a pack in the store. "What's happened is that school kids would buy the packets and
then sell them to their friends with quite a surcharge," Mitchell said in a interview. "They were profiteering." The tremendous demand for Pop Rocks led General Fods to
build another manufacturing plant and Mitchell is now touring the country to introduce another sizzling sweet called Cosmic candy. Along the way, he's doing his best to
quash rumors about Pop Rocks. The incendiary effects fo Pop Rocks, a carbonated combination of sugar, flavoring and coloirng, apparently inspired stories of exploding
stomachs and other maladies among enthusiasts. All false, says Mitchell. "The amount of gas in a pack of Pop Rocks is less than one-tenth of what's in a can of soda
pop," says Mitchell, noting that Pop Rocks have U.U. Food & Drug Administration approval. "The worst thing they can do is make you burp." Because of the peculiar
nature of Pop Rocks, the product languished for more than 20 years after Mitchell first created them in 1956. General Foods simply wasn't sure what to do with them.
"I always thought it should be candy, but most of our people thought it should be in some other product--cereal or soemthing," Mitchell said. Finally, a Canadian division
started selling Pop Rocks in packets and General Foods decided to market them nationally."
"In 1976, General Foods Corp. began marketing a new candy called Pop Rocks--carbonated crystals that fizz and crackle in the mouth. Pop Rocks became what
one distributor called "the fastest-moving new candy I've ever seen." Three years later, General Foods is planning to adapt the carbonated-candy idea to other
products. Pop Rocks have posed some unusual marketing problems, however. Earlier this year, a false but widespread rumor that Mikey, the boy on the Life
cereal commercial, had died from popping too many rocks prompted General Foods to take out ads in 45 newspapers assuring parents that the ingredients in Pop
Rocks have FDA approval. Also, the company has to take the unsold candy off the shelves when the daily temperature averages more than 85 degrees. In high
heat, Pop Rocks can start crackling ouside the mouth--and a shipment once blew open the doors on an overheated delivery truck. The company has so far sold
more than 500 million packages of Pop Rocks and Cosmic Candy...Bill Mitchell, who invented Pop Rocks, believes that carbonated candy is only the
beginning--that eventually such crystals will be an ingredient in everything from breakfast cereals to medication. General Foods has already begun test-marketing a
product known as Increda Bubble--carbonated gum."
"The bubble gum market is continuing to explode with new entries--American Chicle's Crackups, Life Savers' sugarless Bubble Yum and General Foods' especially
appriate Increda Bubble gum with bursting candy particles...Although GF researchers have experimented with carbonation for years, it wasn't until recent years that
the company came up with a viable product--carbonated candies. As that business expanded via some incredible successes on the West Coast for Pop Rocks and
Cosmic Candy, GF began to work on a gum and carbonated candy concoction. Increda Bubble went into test in a small northwestern market a year ago. GF took
great pains to maintain secrecy in order to avoid the bootlegging that occured with its carbonated candies. The unauthorized shipping of the candies, which crack
and pop in the mouth, has been cited as a factor in the sales failure in the east. Just as Increda Bubble is rolling out, GF is mulling over the fate of the candies. After
making what once source descried as a "mint of money" with the candies on the West Coast, GF lost all but a couple of million dollars wtih the disaster in the East.
The exposure of the candies in eastern markets before they officially debuted eliminating the surprise factor so important in a fad product's success,GF also was
faced with combating all sorts of rumors about kids suffering illness or death after tyring the candies. One of the most bizarre and unfounded rumors centered
around the youth who played "Mikey" in Life cereal commercials. It was rumored he ate the candy with a soda chaser, his tomach exploded and he died. The final
blow was the unfortuante introduction of the carbonated candies in the Midwest last winter when markets such as Chicago where hit by as series of winter storms
that dumped record levels of snow and forced people to remain homebound for days. Despite these setbacks, GF has not given up on carbonated technology. A
spokesman said Pop Rocks are still sold in some western markets, anthough it won't be there for long. She said no decisions had been made on the candy's
future...GF has also filed for trademark registration on the name Freeze-In for a freezable carbonated soda concentrate...The company also is looking at novelty
items, possibly for Halloween, and and ice cream novelty on a stick that would contain the carbonated candy inside. These items are all byproducts of the
company's search for the so far elusive carbonated drink mix that would expand its franchise in the drink mix field."
"Pop Rocks, the popular carbonated candy that General Foods Corp. quit making after less than three years and many rumors of exploding tummies and choking
children, is back in stores. The crackling, mouth-tingling treat is being test marketed in New England and the Dakotas by Carbonated Candy Ventures of Buffalo,
N.Y. False rumors once claimed the candy killed little ``Mikey,`` the young character featured in cereal commercials a decade ago, by making his tummy explode,
and that it made other children gag and choke. While Carbonated Candy said it hasn't seen a resurgence of the rumors, it's not taking any chances. It had a
laboratory in Connecticut retest the product, which the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) earlier found safe. Wholesalers were instructed to contact the FDA
about any new rumors."
"Despite bad publicity and several health-food crazes, Pop Rocks soldier on. For 50 years, in fact. To celebrate the anniversary, Pop Rocks Inc. has released a
limited edition line of Cherry Pop Rocks in their original 1970s packaging. They were developed by General Foods chemist William A. Mitchell in 1956 while
trying to create an instant soft drink (he holds a patent on Tang). For their first two decades, though, no one quite knew what to with this odd concoction. In 1975,
they were given suitably garish packaging and christened Pop Rocks. They took off immediately. A hard candy like no other - little fragments containing hidden
pockets of carbonation - they explode in the mouth, fizzling and darting about. Soon, there was even a Pop Rock mythology. Rumors emerged that Mikey ("Give it
to Mikey - he'll eat anything!") from the Life cereal commercial died after ingesting an ill-advised combination of pop rocks and soda. The rumors were so
pervasive that General Foods executives took out ads in major publications and sent out up to 50,000 letters to school administrators extolling Pop Rocks'
virtues. Inventor Mitchell even hit the road and spoke to audiences about his product. Pop Rocks, he told crowds, were safe, good and right; Mikey was alive and
well. But rumors die hard. Pop Rocks were briefly discontinued in the mid-1980s."
EVEN though Pop Rocks' 30th anniversary officially fizzled out this Jan. 1, Spanish company Zeta Especial will continue to exploit its "explosive" retro candy
brand with promotions and licensing. Later this month, Pop Rocks will leverage the sixth season of American Idol with the launch of its I Want to Be a Pop
Rocks Star promo, in which kids write a song about their love of the popping candy and mail it in with two proofs of purchase. (Entrants don't have to show the
songwriting skills of Elvis Costello—winners will be chosen through a drawing.) Running through October and dangling special-edition Pop Rocks gear, the
sweeps will be marketed via print in kids mags such as Disney Adventures, radio promos, sampling, pr and ads on Web sites including Americanidol.com.
Freestanding store displays sporting an Idol-reminiscent blue oval will communicate the sweeps. The Steven Style Group, New York, is Pop Rocks' full-service
agency. Popping candy was an afterthought when a General Foods scientist attempted to invent instant soda with carbonized crystals that melt in water. That idea
never panned out, but his crystals became Pop Rocks, a candy that proved so popular in the '70s that kids were selling 15-cent packs for $1 or more on the candy
black market. The brand is still reeling from an urban legend in which Life cereal spokeskid Little Mikey's stomach purportedly exploded after he washed down
Pop Rocks with a Coke. (Mikey, aka John Gilchrist, is doing fine, thank you.). Originally sold in a cherry flavor, Pop Rocks is planning gourmet flavors like
pumpkin and candy cane, and cotton candy this year. The popping candy has been embedded in fruit rollups, sprinkled on Kellogg's cereals and served as subjects
for science experiments in a Klutz activity book. Additionally, the brand expects to launch a full licensing program in 2007 with apparel and other lifestyle
products."
The history of pralines is full of interesting stories. While sugar-coated nuts were known in the
middle ages
(Jordan almonds & dragees), food historians generally attribute the
"invention" of the praline to
Lassagne,
officer of the table to Marechal du Plessis, duke of Choiseul-Praslin. The first pralines were made
in the
17th century. Presumably, these confections were transported to Lousiana by French settlers.
"Sugar almonds. Almonds coated with a layer of fine sugar, as for dragees...Sugar almonds play
an
important role in rites of passage, particularly christenings and weddings, at which they are
offered as
symbols of good fortune. This custom is strong in France, Greece, Italy, other Mediterranean
countries, and
as far east as Iran and Afghanistan where they are known as noql...As a New Year offering they
are
supposed to ensure that the mouths and lives of the recipients will remain sweet for the whole of
the
coming year. Less sophisticated versions of almond dragees are sometimes made at home by
cooking
almonds, or other nuts, such as hazel, in sugar syrup and then stirring the mixture till it grains.'
The
almonds, with some of the sugar clinging to them, are separated and dried. Many 17th- and
18th-century
praline recipes are of this type."
"Praline. A combination of almonds and boiled sugar, is a popular confection with a long history.
The name
is originally French, and the Dictionnarie de l'epicerie (1898) gives this definition"
Praline.--Bonbon forme
d'une amande rissole dans du sucre dont ell form ensuite le noyeay, et parfue it colore de diverse
manieres.' The important points in this definition are that it refers to almonds which are whole and
separate,
each covered with boiled, grained sugar. This remains the primary meaning of the word in modern
French.
According to the often-repeated but unverifiable legend dating back to the end of the 18th century
at least,
the name praline' is derived from the Duke of Plessis-Praslin (1589-1675). His cook is supposed
to have
invented a method for coating whole almonds in grained caramelized sugar, and later to have
retired to the
to produce the sweets commerically. Whatever the truth, pralines were well known, outside as
well as
inside France, but the 18th century, when recipes for Prawlins', or for Almonds Crisped'
appeared in
English cookery books. Borella (1770) observed that ;praline' is French Anglicized, as there is no
English
word to express the real idea of the French in this sort of preserving almonds.' Eventually,
however, praline,
like many other French culinary terms, became an adopted word in the English language. As an
English
word, praline now has the main meaning of a powdered nut-and-sugar confection, the nuts
commonly (but
not exclusively) used being almonds...In North America pralines are a specialty of several
southern states.
In Louisiana, especially New Orleans, the name applies to candies made with pecans in a coating
of brown
sugar which used to be sold by Creole women known as pralinieres."
"Praline...The praline is a specialty of Montargis, where its inventor, Lassagne, who was chef de
bouche
(master of the household) to the Compte du Plessis-Praslin, came to retire. Legend has it that his
creation
came about this way: seeing a kitchen boy nibbling at leftovers of caramel and almonds, Lassagne
had the
idea of cooking whole almonds in sugar. The sweetmeat that resulted had a bread successs and
even, it is
said, contributed to certain diplomatic triumphs, for which the Compte du Plessis-Praslin, minister
to Louis
XIII and Louis XIV, took all the credit (he also gave his name to the sweets). Lassagne finally
retired to
Montargis in 1630 and there founded the Maison de la Praline, which exists to this day."
"We owe it [praline] to Lassagne...One day, in the servants' quarters of his residence at
Montargis,
Lassagne found his children caramelizing almonds almonds stolen from the kitchens. The
wonderful odour
emanating from the spot where the little cooks were at work gave away their guilty secret and its
delicious
results. His mouth watering, Lassagne promsed to keep quiet in exchange for some of the
sweetmeats. He
perfected the recipe and took it to the court of Louis XIII, where the confection became known
as prasline,
not that the duke himself had anything to do with inventing it. Another sotry holds that the reicpe
was the
result of clumsiness on the part of an apprentice, who dropped some almonds into caramel made
with
Gatinais honey. Whatever the truth of the matter was, Lassagne retired to Montargis and opened
a
confectioner's shop there, the Maison de la prasline, which still exits and is as good as a museum.
Praline is
made and sold at modern fairs in France, but the cheap sort contains peanuts instead of authentic
almonds."
"Praline. A Confection made from almonds or pecans and caramel. It is a great favorite of the
South,
especially in New Orleans, and derives from the French preparation of praline, caramelized
almonds or
hazelnuts and sugar pounded into a fine, crumblike texture, Both terms come from the name of
French
diplomat Cesar du Plessis-Praslin, later duc de Choisuel (1598-1675), whose cook suggested that
almonds
and sugar aided digestion. The American Creoles substituted pecans for the almonds. The
confection is
first mentioned in print in 1715, and part of Louisiana food culture as early as 1762. The term had
various
meaning by 1809, when one chronicler told of pralines made from corn and sugar."
"Pralines. The word "Praline" is entirely associated in New Orleans with the delcious pink and
white sugar
cakes, made of cocoanut and sugar, or the brown ones, made of pecans and sugar, which are sold
by the
old Creole negro women of New Orleans. The "Pralinieres," as they are called, may always be
found in
Canal street, near Boubon or Royal, or about the entrance of Jackson Square, in the dim cathedral
alley, or
going about the streets of the Old French Quarter, selling their wares of an evening, when the
little Creole
children are taking an airing with their faithful old mammies. These little one always have a
"Picayune," or
five-cent peice, with which to buy a praline or a "La Colle," or a stick of "Candi Tire a la
Melasse."
Louisiana
praline
recipe, 1904
Suggestions for further study: Related food? Pecan pie & brittle.
The history of taffy (and its British counterpart, toffee), and butterscotch are intertwined. When were these
confections invented? No one quite knows for certain. Food historians generally agree that
taffy/toffee first became popular in the 1800s. The first recipes were somewhat different from the
product we know today, in that they did not involved "pulling."
The basic ingredients for taffy/ toffee were readily available to European cooks during the Roman
occupation. Treacle (a uncrystalized syrup produced dring sugar refining) was routinely employed
to make cakes and gingerbread during the Middle Ages. Karen Hess notes treacle was considered
to have medicinal value, which explains why it became the sweetener of choice during these times.
(Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [p. 200-1]). C. Anne
Wilson
confirms "Molasses was rather slow in coming into general use as a sweetener, due perhaps to the
influence of the apothecaries and treaclemongers." (Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone
Age to the 19th Century [p.304]). Northern European cooks typically used butter [rather than
oil]
for cooking because it was readily available.
ABOUT TAFFY
"Taffy. A confection made from sugar, butter, and flavorings that has a chewy texture obtained by
twisting and pulling the cooked ingredients into elasticity. The British term for such candy is
toffee or toffy, possibly from tafia, a cheap West Indian rum made from molasses and used
originally to flavor candy. The Oxford English Dictionary notes that taffy...seems to refer
to an
older form of the candy. By the 1870s taffy bakes and taffy pulls, at which young people would
gather to stretch the candy between them, had become social occasions."
"In the 1840s...candy pulls became popular, being called taffy pulls by the late 1870s, when taffy
also came to be a slang word for flattery. Taffy (British toffee) was simple to make, from
molasses or brown sugar and butter, and the taffy pulls entertained young and old alike and were
a suitable face-to-face pastime for courting couples. Salt water taffy became associated with the
Atlantic City Boardwalk by the 1880s, and the box of neatly wrapped pastel rows of taffy became
its typical souvenir."
"taffy...flattery, 'sweet talk' (from the candy), 1879."
About salt water taffy
"Mr. Fralinger retired from business several years ago. Though he was widely known as the 'Salt Water Taffy King,' the claim that he
was the originator of the taffy has been disputed. He was one of the first to manufacture it however, and probably did more than
anybody else to popularize it."
"Fralingers,'s Inc., the oldest original business on the Boardwalk, has been making and selling saltwater taffy since 1885 at the
same location, Tennessee Avenue and the Boardwalk, where Joseph Fralinger set up his stand a century ago. Mr. Fralinger did not create
saltwater taffy, but he was, by all accounts, its most successful merchandiser...According to Arthur H. Gager 3d...the founder of the family business
first took note of taffy in a letter to a relative, written in 1883 in which the candy was referred to as 'Ocean Wave,' 'Sea Foam,'
and 'Salt Water Taffy.' How it got the name saltwater taffy is a pleasant Atlantic City fable. It is said that a Mr. Cassidy and
a Mr. Bradley--nobody knows for sure--had a taffy stand and that one night a northeaster hit the Boardwalk, overturning
everything and washing the sea over his stock. The next day a girl came by, tasted a piece of the candy and asked, 'Is this
saltwater taffy?'...Mr. Gager says is that the name was coined 'simply because of the proximity of the water to the Atlantic
City beach and the Boardwalk.'"
Who were the other contenders & what was the outcome of the legal battle?
"About sixty years ago a man had a small candy store on the Atlantic City waterfront--which, in those remote days, had no grand
Boardwalk, as it now has, raised many inches above the sea. One morning when he opened up for business he found that a recent hight
tide had flooded his stock during the night. 'As he stood tearing his hair, a little girl came in with some pennies in her nahd.
'Please, sir, half a pound of taffy,' she said. 'Here's some salt water taffy,' groaned the storekeeper, handing her a package of
sea-soaked candy. Munching delightedly, she returned to her parents on the beach. 'It's salt water taffy,' she said: the man told
me so.' They started munching also, with a delight equal to hers. 'The candy merchant's mother happened to witness the scene. At
once an idea sprang, full-fledged, into her brain. She rushed to her son's flooded shop. 'When you make your next batch of candy,
mix it with salt water!' she told him.'He did. Others did..."
"John Ross Edmiston Sr.,...claimed to have originated 'saltwater taffy,'...Mr. Edmiston, born at Tyroe, Pa., was graduated from
Lebanon (Pa.) Business College and had been a penmanship teacher. He used the name of salt water taffy shortly after he
opened a confectionery store in Atlantic City in 1884. Mr. Edmiston first opened his shore store at the ocean end of the boardwalk
at South Carolina Avenue. He had been making the candy for some time when his customers insisted that he give it a name. One day,
the sea splashed into his stand, wetting a quantity of the candy which was cooling on a slab. Fearful lest the salt water had ruined
his batch, Mr. Edmiston found that the water had not penetrated into the candy and the thought struck him to call it 'salt water
taffy.'"
"With millions at stake in royalties and the future of their industry in jeopardy, about 500 candy manufacturers in this country,
chiefly along the Atlantic seaboard, have won the right, after months of litigation, to continue using the trademark 'salt
water taffy.' The decision was given by the United States Supreme Court. The right to exclusive use of the trademark was
claimed by John R. Edmiston of Wildwood, N.J. in 1923. He contended he was the originator and the only one to manufacture
'salt water taffy' for ten years prior to 1905. His petition for registration of the trade-mark was granted by the United States
Patent Office officials. Edmiston then notified all other manufacturers of the confection to cease using the trade-mark and served
notice that he would collect royalties on all taffy made since 1895. These royalties would have run into millions. The fisght for the
confectioners was made by James Brothers of this city, beginning in August, 1924, resulting in a decision that the term 'salt water taffy'
cannot be registered."
"Candy interest are following with close attention a temporary victory for manufacturers who contend that John R. Edmiston of Wildwood,
N.J., has not the exclusive right to use the trademark 'Salt Water Taffy.' The examiner for interferences of the Patent Office
has ruled that Mr. Edmiston is not entitled to sole use of this trade name. When Mr. Edmiston filed application for his trade mark some
years ago, the Patent Office decided that the name was 'descriptive' and therefore he would have to apply under a proviso that for
ten years previous to 1905 he had, to the best of his knowledge and belief, been entitled to the trade name. Under such an
application thirty days are left open for any one to file an opposition, but this was not done. Under a proviso, however, contendants
may at any time apply for a cancellation of the registration, and this application has been made by James Brothers of Atlantic
City, representing a large number of candy manufacturers. The examiner for interferences now has ruled against Mr. Edmiston. The
latter has until April 15 to appeal from this decision to the Commissioner of Patents...The Edmiston appeal has not yet been
filed."
We also found this tasty Prohibition-era tidbit:
"Ocean City's fifth candyless Snday since the enforcement of Lord's Day rgulations, was ameliorated today by the free distribution
of 1,000 boxes of salt water taffy to convertionery-hungry excursionists. John C. Funk, manager of the Arcadia restaurant, staged
the candy barbecue. The situaion was further relieved when Willian F. Shriver and J. Frank Shellenhberger...dispensed ice
cream and soda water for the first time on Sunday since the blue ordinance was enforced. Since that time they had kept their
places closed on Sunday."
Does salt water taffy really contain salt? Sometimes. Recipes here:
"Salt Water Taffy
[1970]
ABOUT TOFFEE
"Toffee...the modern British name for a sweet formerly called 'taffy.' The older name survives in
the USA, but British toffee and American taffy are not quite the same....Welsh forms of toffee
(variously called taffi, ffani, or cyflaith) are much more like American taffy. In particular, they are
usually pulled, as is most American taffy. The agreeable custom of taffy-pulling parties has
survived up to modern times in parts of Wales, while it is probably extinct in England. "
"Toffee became popular around 1800, a time when sugar and treacle (a sugar syrup like molasses)
had become cheap. Early references to toffee all come from the north of England and often
mention friends getting together to boil treacle with flour to make a sticky treat. Improvements to
the basic mixture included adding cream a speciality of Devonshire or butter to make a richly
flavoured confection. Buttery toffee is often called butterscotch, which suggests it was invented in
Scotland. But the word was first recorded in the Yorkshire town of Doncaster, where Samuel
Parkinson began making it in 1817. Possibly the "scotch" part of its name derives from "scorch"
rather than from Scotland. As for the word "toffee," an early spelling is "toughy" or "tuffy,"
probably a reference to the confection's teeth-sticking toughness."
Recommended reading:
Taffy/toffee recipes
A recipe from 1861:
Three pounds of sugar dissolved in a pint of water, in which half a teaspoon of citric acid has been
dissolved; remove the scum as fast as it rises. Boil until it will crack when dropped in cold water;
remove from the fire, and add the juice of three lemons or four oranges. Mix it well and boil very
gently, until it is as hard as before the lemon was added; pour it in square buttered pans. It should
be about an eighth of an inch thick when cold. Before it hardens mark it off neatly in small blocks
that it may break regularly.
[1936:London]
ABOUT BUTTERSCOTCH
"Buttery toffee is often called butterscotch, which suggests it was invented in
Scotland. But the word was first recorded in the Yorkshire town of Doncaster, where Samuel
Parkinson began making it in 1817. Possibly the "scotch" part of its name derives from "scorch"
rather than from Scotland."
"Butterscotch, a toffee-like confection of sugar and butter, is first heard of in the mid-nineteenth
century. It presumably got its name from being originally manufactured in Scotland, although its
history is uncertain. The first known reference to it comes in F.K. Robinson's Glossary of
Yorkshire Words (1855), where it is called butterscot."
"Butterscotch. A confection made from butter, brown sugar, and lemon juice. The association
with Scotland has never been satisfactorily explained. Butterscotch sauce, or butterscotch
topping, is an American dessert sauce with the flavor of butterscotch candy and is served over ice
cream..., on pound cake, and on other sweets. The word was first printed in 1855, earlier as
"butterscot."
"Doncaster butterscotch. In Britain, according to an old cookbook, "candy-making is a regular
adjunct to courting...It draws together all the lads and lasses...and the fun and the daffing that go
on during the boiling, pulling, clipping, cooling, are...worth the money." Visitors to the annual fair
in Doncaster, a coal town in Yorkshire, could treat themselves to this chewy butterscotch
specialty."
The butterscotch recipes we know today are different from those of times past. Although the
lemon flavoring is constant, the types of sugar, ingredient proportions, and cooking instructions
are the result of an evolving process.
Butterscotch recipes through time:
[1877]
[1890s]
Process.--Melt the sugar in the water by an occasional stir when the pan is on the fire, then add
the cream of tartar and boil up to 300; lift the pan on to the side of the furnace and add butter in
small pieces broken off by the hand; slip the pan on the fire again adding the lemon falvor; let it
boil through, so that all the butter is boiled in, then pour into frames; when partly cold, mark the
cutter into small squares; when cold, divide the squares; wrap each in wax paper, then tinfoil; sold
generally in 1/2 d, 1 d, and 3d packets, the latter containing 6 halfpenny pieces. N.B.--There is
good butter scotch and better butter scotch, but no bad butter scotch; this quality may be
imporved by the addition of a larger proportion of butter..."
[1918]
Boil first five ingredients until, when tried in cold water mixture will become brittle. When
nearly done, add butter, and just before turning into pan, vanilla. Cool, and mark in squares."
[1929]
Put sugar, corn syrup, and water in a saucepan, stir until is dissolved, bring to boiling point, and
boil to 280 degrees F., or until it cracks in cold water. Add butter and salt, and boil to 290
degrees F., or until it reaches the hard crack when tried in cold water. Remove from fire, flavor
with oil of lemon, and pour out between bars on slightly moistened slab, mark the squares, and
bread up when cold."
The term "caramel" has two meanings: the highest stage of heated sugar (also
caramelized/caramelization) and a confection (candy). According to the food historians,
caramelization was practiced in France in the 17th century. Pralines are
an example of a caramelized confection. Caramel candies, as we think of them today, surfaced in
the 18th century. The are related to toffee. In addition to candy, caramel
has several other applications. These include: flavoring (caramel custard), sauce (popular with ice
cream), and coating (caramel corn).
"Caramel is sugar which has been cooked until it turns brown. The word caramel is a
comparatively late introduction into English: it is first recorded in 1725. It came via French from
Spanish caramelo, but its previous history is speculative; its most likely source is perhaps late
Latin calamellus, a diminutive form of Latin calamus, reed, cane' (the implied reference being to
sugarcane'). The sweets caramels, a soft form of toffee, are made with sugar and milk, butter, or
cream."
"The five terms--lisse or smooth, pearl, blow, feather, and casse or break--remained
standard [confectionery terms] during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. They were split
into lower' and higher', which then became regarded as degrees in their own right. The term
caramel was added. Confusingly for the modern reader, this indicated the degree just
before the sugar begins to colour. It is now regarded as the hard crack stage. Such attention to
detail implies that confectionery became very accomplished during the eighteenth century, but,
despite this, written instructions were often inconsistent and blase...Confectioners remained
circumspect about boiling sugar higher than feather...Higher degrees came into use gradually. In
the sixteenth century, only apothecaries were confident with them. In the next, Rose translated
one recipe which required sugar boiled to casse or break. In the eighteenth, sugar boiled to the
highest degree, grand casse, or caramel, had a limited use. Massailot said that
caramel was proper for Barley-sugar and certain small Sugar-works call'd by that name.' His
compatriot J. Gilliers, writing in 1751, described caramel as sugar boiled to casse. It was
coloured, and used for figures to decorate the table. Other confectioners used caramel for
decorative purposes and do not seem to have made many boiled-sugar sweets of the type now
familiar. Only at the beginning of the next century did Jarrin make it clear that he included
browned sugar in the term caramel."
"Toffee recieved a boost in the 1880s when caramels, a North American innovation, were
introduced. Caramels relied
on slowly boiled sugar and milk to give a delicious flavour. Skuse wrote that these sweets were
sold very freely on the
lowest and poorest quarters of London, at two-pence per ounce; in the West End the same goods
fetch double that price.'
They were also suitable for mass production. Coconut oil substitutes were developed to replace
the dairy products, and
automatic stirrers replaced human endeavour at the boiling pan. Confectioners began experiments.
In 1890 John
Mackintosh opened a shop in Halifax. Shortly afterwards, he created Mackintosh's Celebrated
Toffee, drawing both on
English toffee and American caramel formulae."
What did British confectioners think of American caramels at the turn of the 20th
century?
A SELECTED SURVEY OF CARAMEL RECIPES THROUGH TIME
[1864]
[1884]
[1896]
[1911]
Some popular snack foods are coated with caramel: Related foods? Pralines and toffee
apples.
Toffee apples
The practice of coating fruit in sugar syrup dates to ancient times. Honey and sugar were used as
preserving agents. Food historians generally agree that toffee apples (aka taffy apples, caramel
candied apples, candy apples, lollipop apples) probably date to the late 19th century, although difficult to prove in print. Both
toffee and caramel are traced to the early decades of the 18th century.
Inexpensive toffee/caramels became available by the end of the 19th century. Culinary evidence
confirms a variety of recipes, from hard colored sugar to soft chewy caramel coating.
What is "candied fruit?"
"The use of cane sugar slowly spread outward from Bengal. In the seventh century
A.D., the Chinese emporer Tai-Hung sent workmen to Gur to learn the art of
sugar refining, and by the tenth century camel caravans were carrying "sand sugar"
north through the empty deserts to Europe. This newsly arrived cane sugar was
initially regarded as a spice, and in medieval Europe was used principally as a
medicine. It was enormously expensive and was therefore only available to the
wealthiest households. Nevertheless, sugar gradually began to be more widely
appreciated for its appetizing sweetness in sweetmeats, confectionery, and
desserts, while it was increasingly valued also as a preserving agent for fresh fruits.
Sweetmeats had appeared on the menu of the most sumptuous feasts and banquets
of the Romans, the Athenians, and in Byzantium, and the most wealthy and noble
households of the European Middle Ages adopted these delicacies for their own
tables. These sweetmeats were considered a digestive to clear the palate...Good
hosts weven placed little decorated comfit boxes filled with sugared almonds,
pralines, nougats, candied spiced preserves and lemon peel, marzipan made with
ground almond paste, egg whites, and sugar, and crystallized fruits, flowers, and
angelica for the delectation of their guests in the privacy of their chambers. It was
believed that sugar helped their digestion...Candying, probably developed in the
Middle East, is a very slow process of replacing the natural juices of the fruit with
the sugar solution or syrup. As in some fruit-drying processes, citrus peel and
some hard fruits are first soaked in strong brine or acid solution to draw out some
of the liquid before boiling and to encourage the fruit to absorb more sugar. Once
candied, the fruits can be "crystallized" by painting them with egg white and
dusting liberally with sugar...Once sugared, the fruit or flower is the left to dry out
in a warm,well ventilated place."
Of the THE best books on the history of confectionery (of all kinds) is Laura Mason's
Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004
ISBN 1903018285. This source traces the origins of candy evolving from honey and
refined sugar. Candying, Ms. Mason notes, was a method employed in ancient times for
fruit preservation. Candied fruit could be dried or stored with syrup in airtight containers.
While the book does not specifically address candied apples it does contain a passage which is on point:
"Preserved fruit had been a status symbol for centuries. Before canning, freezing and air
freight, sugar was the only medium of conservation available...Originally, the technique
was used for more than merely keeping the fruit from rotting. Fresh fruit was regarded as
suspect by physicians, who thought it mostly 'cold' in humoral terms. In the seventeeth
century, Tobias Venner thought quinces, peaches, and apricots cold and dry, apples and
pears cold and moist with a 'crude and windie moisture'...Preserving with sugar (which
was moderately hot) made delicious sweetmeats that tempered the coldness of the
fruit...Fruit sweetmeats, including a few using honey, can be traced back to the earliest
collections of recipes. The confectioner faced with a glut of fruit had three options:
preserve it whole (in syrup or candied); cook to a homogenous paste; extract the fruit and
boil it with sugar to make a jelly. In skilful hands all three were exploited for decorative,
beautifully coloured and flavoured sweetmeats. Preserving whole involved a serious
attempt to conserve the integrity of fruits to that they appeared as natural as possible. All
recipes for preserves or "suckets' begain by cooking fruit gently, and then steeping in
syrup over several days. The syrup was concentrated by boiling a little more each
day...Finallly, fruit and syrup were transferred to gallipots or glasses and sealed with
bladder or paper until needed. Drained, the preserves could be sprinkled with fine sugar,
or candied by dipping them in sugar boiled to candy eight so encasing each peice in a
sugar shell. This method uses syrups boiled to relatively low temperatures. Candied fruits
are still made with varying degrees of skill in France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and their
former colonies. The quantities of sugar required, as well as the time and expertize, make
these expensive and luxurious sweetmeats even now." (p. 109-111)
About toffee apples
"Toffee apple. A popular confection on Britian, especially in the autumn, when they used
to be
prominent, with their vivid red color, at autumn fairs. A whole, fresh apple, on a thin stick,
is
dipped in a high-boiled sugar syrup which has been colored red; and allowed to set before
wrapping in cellophane. The Oxford English Dictionary gives on quotations
relating to
toffee apples earlier than the beginning of the 20th century. However, the use of the term
as a
soldier's slang for a type of bomb used in the first World War suggests that they were
already well
known, and probably have a longer history than the quotations allow. In the phrase toffee
apple'
the word 'toffee' means simple boiled sugar, not the mixture of sugar and dairy produce
which is
what the word usually refers to. This may be another indication of an older origin of the
toffee
apple...There is some similarity between toffee apples and the Chinese dessert items which
consist
of pieces of banana or apple fried in batter and then coated in a caramelized syrup.
Whether there
is any historical connection is not clear."
"Toffee-apples seem to be an early twentieth-century invention; they are first mentioned in
the
Christmas 1917 issue of the BEF Times."
Mrs. D.A. Lincoln's Boston Cooking School Cook Book [1884] provides instructions for
"Candied or
Crystallized Fruit of Nuts" which approximates the formula described by Mr.
Davidson. It
does not, however, mention the use of apples
The oldest recipe we have for toffee apples is this:
"Apples on a stick.
[1924]
Glace
Valentine's Day candies
The tradition of proferring offerings of love on St. Valentine's Day is well documented. The role
of exchanging confections on this day is not. Some folks believe chocolate is the confection of choice because of its aphrodesiac properties. Others reason the Valentine candy
phenomenon a just a clever scheme developed by confectioners to promote products in the seasonal lull between Christmas
and Easter. No matter what the reason, the end result is lovely and delicious!
Conversation hearts
"Kissing comfits , as detailed by Robert May in 1685, were sugar paste containg musk, civet, ambergris, and orris powder. These were printed in moulds or rolled
into little pellets and then squeezed flat with a seal...The combination of sugar and mottoes continued, Hannah Glasse gave instructions 'to make little things of sugar,
with devices in them. These were made from the pieces of sugar paste, tinted whatever colour was preferred, 'in what shapes you like...in the middle of them have
little pieces of paper, with some pretty smart sentences wrote on them; they will in company make much mirth.' But the writing migrated from paper to the sweet
itself with the Victorian fashion for 'conversation lozenges'. Those who were tongue-tied could always offer their companion a little piece of sugar paste printed
with some suitable inscription. 'How do you flirt?' "Can you polka?' and 'Love me' were amongst those available from Terry's in York; for those wanting to make a
really positive response, a large medallion moulded with a heart and the words 'I will' was available. Another novelty was reminiscent of Hannah Glasse's little
things with devices in them. As advertised by the firm of Thomas Handisyde in the East End of London, these were 'Handisydes Secret Charms suck carefully and
the secret message will appear'. Handisyde produced various shapes and sizes of conversation lozenges, the larger ones cut in hearts, circles, and elegant oblongs
with ogee edges. The temperance movement used the idea of motto lozenges to promote their message. 'Drink is the ruin of man'...The inscriptions were added to
the sweets by printing the tops with stamps dipped in dyes."
The earliest reference we find in American print to fancy packaged Valentine's Day confections is from the 1890s:
"Among the sweetest valentines seen were those designed by the confectioners. Some shown in beautiful glass-covered boxes were
heart shape, the foudation being a layer of pale pink cream confectionery, half an inch thick, edged all around with candied
rose leaves in clusters to represent tiny roses. inclused in this flowery frame was a smaller heart formed of a solid mass of the
rose leaves, and surrounding it were the words, in raised letters, covered with gold leaf, "For my valentine." The box, into which the
lovely confection exactly fitted, was of pink satin, the rim around the glass top being covered with a narrow row of finely-plaited
pink silk net. In this dainty casket the valentine can be preserved for generations, if so desired, or, if consumed, the case will
serve as a charming receptable for jewels. Others, similary designed, were of candied violets, in violet satin boxes. An exquisitely
delicate one, that shows the confectioner's art in its hightes development, resembled a delicate bisque piece in coloring and finish.
In the centre of a square of lemon-colored cream, bordered with ale green primroses, were two figures, one of a bewitching
little girl in a Greenaway gown and a huge hat loaded with white ostrich tips, and the other a boy in a picturesuqe Continental suit,
standing before her, cocked hat in hand, in the act of making an elaborate bow. The faces and dresses are wonderfully well done, and
every particle of the whole is composed of the very choicest candy. On the right, in gold letters, are the words, "Will you
be my valentine?" Their values range from $5 upward, including box, those with the figures being, of course, higher priced than
th others and they make a far more sensible gift than gold-plated bonbons at $40 a pound, which are a caprice just now with the ultra
fashionables."
---"In Honor of St. Valentine," New York Times, February 4, 1894 (p. 18)
About chocolate packaging:
"Initially, chocolate was packed as unwrapped bars in wooden boxes with paper labels, displayed
on the shop counter. Individual paper wrappers developed soon afterwards. Gold printing and
metal foils repeated the luxury message which gold leaf had given to sweets in earlier centuries.
Design used the latest images, and graphics publicized the desirability of chocolate. Even more
status was attached to special boxes, decorated with pictures, lined with tissue and paper lace. As
the package, not the contents, occupied more and more of the foreground, so advertising has
shifted almost entirely from the tast of confectionery towards style by association."
The Cadbury connection?
"The tradition of giving chocolates on Valentine's Day can be traced to Richard Cadbury, of the
English chocolate-making family, who "invented" the first Valentine's Day candy box during the
Victorian era. The Victorians, who fancied decorating cards with plump cupids shooting arrows
of love, later transferred the image to the lids of heart-shaped boxes filled with dreamy
combinations of silken chocolates."
Cadbury itself acknowledges making fancy boxes of chocolates, though it stakes no claims on
Valentine's Day:
"Cadbury's 'fancy chocolates' (or assortments) were sold in decorated boxes with small
pictures that children could cut out to stick into scrapbooks.
Richard Cadbury, who had considerable artistic talents, set out to introduce more ambitious
and attractive designs from his own paintings: many of his original boxes still exist. Using his
own
children as models, or depicting flowers and scenes from holiday journeys, he introduced the first
British made fancy chocolate boxes. These proved to be popular, helping both the Cadbury
business and the confectionery trade in general.
Elaborate chocolate boxes were prized by the late Victorians as special gifts, to be used as
trinket or button boxes once the fancy chocolates had been eaten: designs therefore had after-use
very much in mind. Designs ranged from superb velvet covered caskets with bevelled mirrors
and
silk lined jewel boxes, to pretty boxes with pictures of kittens, landscapes or attractive girls on
the
lid.
Their popularity continued until their disappearance during the 1939-45 war: Victorian and
Edwardian chocolate boxes are now treasured collectors' items.
In the 1870s the quality of the chocolates produced by the company following the introduction
of the cocoa press helped Cadbury break the monopoly French producers previously enjoyed in
the British market."
About culinary research & about copyright.
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat [Barnes & Noble Books:New York]
1992 (p. 565-6)
[NOTE: This book has an excellent chapter on the history of confectionery and preserves. Ask
your librarian to help you find a copy.]
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 54-5)
[NOTE: This source has much more information than can be paraphrased. Ask your librarian to
help you find a copy. It also contains separate entries for specific types of candies.]
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect
Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 22)
[NOTE: We highly recommend this book if you need details on the history of all sorts of English
candies.]
Candy packaging through time
Food historians confirm confectionery packaging through time is a complicated issue. Not only is packaging period-dependent (technologically possible options),
but venue (penny-candy street vendors vs shops catering to wealthy clients), occasion (Valentines gift, everyday candy bar) and product (chocolate bars are
packaged quite differently from gumdrops) factor in as well Laura Mason, confectionery history expert, offers these notes:
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 202-3)
---ibid (p. 205)
---ibid (p. 207-8)
---ibid (p. 191)
About sugar & sweeteners
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat,Translated by Anthea Bell [Barnes &
Noble Books:New York] 1992 (p. 549-554)
[NOTE: This book has much more information than can be paraphrased here. Ask your librarian
to help you find a copy.]
---Dangerous Tastes: The Story of Spices, Andrew Dalby [University of California
Press:Berkeley CA] 2000 (p. 28-9)
---America's Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking, Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald [University of North
Carolina Press:Chapel Hill] 2004(p. 214-216)
Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History, Sidney W.Mintz
---history of economics and production
Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Conee Ornelas,
Volume I, Chapter II.F.2 "Sugar."
---botany, historical geography, products/byproducts
Medieval Arab Cookery, Maxime Rodinson, A.J. Arberry & Charles Perry
---food & medicinal uses, early candy production, recipes & primary documents
From Medieval times to the 19th century, refined sugar was sold in solid form, often in cones,
blocks or loaves. The standard unit of measure in the United States and United Kingdom (also
used in recipes) was the pound and increments thereof.
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats, Transcribed by
Karen Hess [Columbia University Press:New York] 1995 (p. 11)
---English Bread and Yeast Cookery, Elizabeth David [Penguin:Middlesex] 1977 (p.
139)
[NOTE: Mrs. David has much more to say on the subject of sugar than can be paraphrased here.
Ask your librarian to help you find a copy of this book.]
---300 Years of Kitchen Collectibles, Linda Campbell Franklin, 5th edition [Krause
Publications:Wisconsin] 2003 (p. 100-101)
[NOTE: other sources say blue paper was employed because it made the sugar appear
whitest/most pure.]
---The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, Hannah Glasse, facsimile first edition,
Introductory Essays by Jennifer Stead and Priscilla Bain, glossary by Alan Davidson [Prospect
Books:Devon] 1995 (p. 200)
---Food in Colonial and Federal America, Sandra L. Oliver [Greenwood Press:Westport
CT] 2005 (p. 77-8)
Havana white
Havana brown (like Brasilian Demarara)
Muscovado 1st quality
Muscovado 2nd quality
Muscovado ordinary
West India clayed white
West India clayed brown
Calcutta white
Batavia white
Of these, ordinary muscovado was the cheapest, just about half the cost of Havana white, the
most expensive sugar then available and the one most like the white granulated sugar of today.
Cheap, black, sticky moscovado or brown Demarara-type sugars were the most common table
sugars used by the Pennsylvania Dutch. Like molasses, moscovado sugar was always in great
demand, even in the eighteenth century, for it was one of the first sugars to be advertised in the
Philadelphia America Weekly Mercury of 1719. Regardless of grade, sugar was imported in large
cones or loaves...Once the loaves of sugar reached the United States, they were usually purged or
refined again and converted into smaller loaves for retail sale and wrapped in blue paper to
preserve the whiteness. In spite of this precaution, none of the retail loaf sugar was usable until it
was boiled again in water to remove insects and other extraneous material. This irksome process
involved egg whites, charcoal, and constant skimming. The syrup was then strained thorugh a
cloth bag until clear, returned to the fire, and boiled down."
---Sauerkraut Yankees: Pennsylvania Dutch Foods and Foodways, William Woys Weaver,
2nd edition [Stackpole Books:Mechanicsburg PA] 2002 (p. 152-4)
Our survey of American Historic Newspapers (Readex) reveals the term "granulated sugar" was used from the 1820s forward. Prior to this time, white sugar was sold in solid cones. The sugar was scraped off and pounded to achieve the desired textures.
---The Grocers' Hand-Book and Directory for 1886, Artemas Ward [Philadelphia Grocer Publishing Co.:Philadelphia PA] 1886 (p. 227-228)
A popular, economical 17th/18th century substitute for refined white sugar. One of the primary
points of the Triangle Trade (the other two being rum and slaves). Well known by period cooks in
England and America.
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
[Lebhar-Friedman:New York]
1999 (p. 207-8)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 122-3)
---How Products Are Made, Jacqueline L. Long, editor, Volume 5 [Gale:Farmington Hills
MI] 2000 (p. 316-320)
[NOTE: this book has much more history and an excellent description of how molasses is made.
If you need more details please ask your librarian to help you find this book.]
---Eating in America: A History, Waverly Root & Richard de Rochemont [William
Morrow:New York] 1976 (p. 83)
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 349)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 804)
---Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson [Academy Chicago:Chicago IL] 1991 (p. 305-6)
Basically, white sugar (granulated to XXX confectioner's) is the product of the most refined
processes and has historically been the most expensive/desirable. Real brown sugar takes its
color
and texture from molasses. Modern food production methods can also create brown sugars by
adding colored syrup to white sugars. Which brand of brown sugar did you buy? We can check
that company's Web site to find out what they have to say about it.
---Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999(p. 316)
There are two methods for producing brown sugar - boiling and blending - and both are currently in use in Canada.
Boiling involves heating a purified sugar syrup, which still contains some of the colour and flavour elements from the
sugar cane, until it crystallizes to form a soft yellow or brown sugar. Blending is a process that combines the separately
purified white sucrose crystals and refiners' syrups (something like fancy grade molasses) to produce yellow or brown
sugar. The difference in the method used to produce brown sugar should not result in a difference in taste or affect the
texture and consistency of baked goods. The difference between light (yellow) and dark brown sugar is that the darker
brown sugars have more of the refiners' syrup ("molasses") left in the product. Turbinado, Muscovado and Demerara sugars
are all specialty brown sugars."
---Canadian Sugar Institute
Brown sugar (light and dark):
Brown sugar retains some of the surface molasses syrup, which imparts a characteristic pleasurable flavor. Dark brown
sugar has a deeper color and stronger molasses flavor than light brown sugar. Lighter types are generally used in baking
and making butterscotch, condiments and glazes. The rich, full flavor of dark brown sugar makes it good for gingerbread,
mincemeat, baked beans, and other full flavored foods.
Brown sugar tends to clump because it contains more moisture than white sugar.
Muscovado or Barbados sugar:
Muscovado sugar, a British specialty brown sugar, is very dark brown and has a particularly strong molasses flavor. The
crystals are slightly coarser and stickier in texture than “regular” brown sugar.
Free-flowing brown sugars:
These sugars are specialty products produced by a co-crystallization process. The process yields fine, powder-like brown
sugar that is less moist than “regular” brown sugar. Since it is less moist, it does not clump and is free-flowing like
white sugar.
Demerara sugar:
Popular in England, Demerara sugar is a light brown sugar with large golden crystals, which are slightly sticky from the
adhering molasses. It is often used in tea, coffee, or on top of hot cereals."
---Sugar Association
These notes from 1807/Philly market lists three types:
"...it would be useful to review the various grades of whole-sale sugar as they were designated in Pennsylvania during the nineteenth century. The following list is
taken from Hope's Philadelphia Price-Current for October 5, 1807:
Havana white
Havana brown (like Brasilian Demarara)
Muscovado 1st quality
Muscovado 2nd quality
Muscovado ordinary
West India clayed white
West India clayed brown
Calcutta white
Batavia white
Of these, ordinary muscovado was the cheapest, just about half the cost of Havana white, the most expensive sugar then available and the one most like the white
granulated sugar of today. Cheap, black, sticky moscovado or brown Demarara-type sugars were the most common table sugars used by the Pennsylvania Dutch.
Like molasses, moscovado sugar was always in great demand, even in the eighteenth century, for it was one of the first sugars to be advertised in the Philadelphia
America Weekly Mercury of 1719. Regardless of grade, sugar was imported in large cones or loaves...Once the loaves of sugar reached the United States, they
were usually purged or refined again and converted into smaller loaves for retail sale and wrapped in blue paper to preserve the whiteness. In spite of this
precaution, none of the retail loaf sugar was usable until it was boiled again in water to remove insects and other extraneous material. This irksome process involved
egg whites, charcoal, and constant skimming. The syrup was then strained thorugh a cloth bag until clear, returned to the fire, and boiled down."
---Sauerkraut Yankees: Pennsylvania Dutch Foods and Foodways, William Woys Weaver, 2nd edition [Stackpole Books:Mechanicsburg PA] 2002 (p. 152-4)
---"Recipe for Making Tomato Figs," Wisconsin Democrat, September 28, 1843 (p. 3)
Powdered sugar is the finest grade of granulated white sugar. Confectioners' sugar (also known
as icing sugar) is the finest grade of powdered sugar. These sugars are graded by "X," indicating
the fineness of the powder.
About sugar grades & processing
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple & Kriemhild Conee Ornelas [Cambridge University Press:Cambridge] 2000, Volume Two
(p. 1854)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, 2nd edition, Tom Jaine editor [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2006 (p. 733-4)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, vol. 2 (p. 458)
---Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread, & Scuppernong Wine: The Folklore and Art of Southern
Appalachian Cooking, Joseph E. Dabney [Cumberland House:Nashville TN] 1998 (p. 424-5)
[NOTE: This book contains far more information than can be paraphrased here. If you need
mroe information ask your librarian to help you find a copy.]
"In the language of corn refining, once the starch matrix has been separated from its protein gluten, the starch is converted by
chemical action (an acid or enzymes, or both, are added to starch suspended in water) into "simple" sugar, called a "low-dextrose
solution." Sweeteners and tecture (crystal or syrup) are controllled at every point to produce different products, depending upon how much
starch is digested by the acid or enzyme...By the same initial process through which the Hopi made
"virgin hash," our modern corn refiners make glucose, maltose, dextrose and fructose. The larger the number of these long glucose chains
in the molecule, the more viscous the syrup, a quality important to the baking and candy industries because it prevents
graininess and crystallization. Without corn syrup, no easy-to-make chocolate fudge. The more complete the digestion of starch,
the sweeter the syrup, because the rate of glucose and maltose is higher. Maltose is a "double unit" sugar produced, as in brewing,
by enzyme-manipulated starch. By manipulating the glucose unites
with an enzyme derived form...Streptomyces bacteria, the refiner can get a supersweet fructose called High Fructose Corn
Syrup (HFCS). Today, this is where the king's share of cornstarch goes, becasue this syrup is the sweetener of choice...for the
soft drink, ice cream and frozen dessert industries. Although supersweet fructose tastes about twice as sweet as ordinary sugar, we do not as
a result consume half as many soft drinks or ice cream cones. On the contrary, American sweetness consumption spirals ever
upward..."The family of corn syrups includes hyrdol, or corn sugar molasses, a dark, viscous syrup useful in animal feed and in drugs;
lactic acid, a colorless syrup useful as a preservative and flavorer for everything from pickles to mayonnaise; and sorbitol
(dextrose plus hydrogen), and emulsifier that shows up in toothpaste and detergents as well as processed edibles."
---The Story of Corn, Betty Fussell [North Point Press:New York] 1992 (p 272)
"Gottlieb Sigismund Kirchhof accidentally discovered that sweet substances could be prepared from starch while working at the Acadmey of Science, St. Petersbug,
Russia, during the Napoleonic Wars. Kirchhof needed gum arabic for use in manufacturing porcelain. No gum arabic was available because of the continental
blockade imposed by the British at that time. However, a Frenchman, Bouitton-Lagrange, had reported that dry starch, when heated, acquires some of the properties
of the vegetable gums. Kirchhof attempted to make a substitute gum arabic from starch by adding some water and acid before heating. As a result, instead of a gummy
substance, he obtained a sweet-tasting sirup and a small amount of crystallized sugar (dextrose), a finding he reported in 1811. Because of the extreme shortage of sugar
in Eruope at the time, the discovery attracted immediate notice in scientific and commercial circles. Starch, largely obtained from potatoes, was already being manufactured
in a number of countries in Europe. With this supply of raw material available, numerous small factories were erected to convert starch to either sirup or sugar. Means
were soon discovered by which either sirup or sugar could be obtained as desired. The fact that neither beet sugar nor any other acceptable substitute for imported can
sugar had as yet become available encouraged the development of starch sweeteners. However, the new industry, after the defeat of Napoleon and the lifting of the
blockade, declined almost as rapidly as it had grown. Sugar became very cheap for a while...Few statistics are available concerning the early operation of the starch
sweetener industry in Euope. But 11 million pounds of dextrose were reported to have been produced from potato starch in France in 1855 and about 44 million
pounds in Germany in 1874...Starch sweetener production developed more slowly in the United States than in Europe, since there was no sugar shortage
here early in the 19th century. A small factory near Philadelphia processed potato starch in 1831-1832. The next plant established in this country to make dextrose
from cornstarch was in New York City in 1864."
History of Sugar Marketing Through 1974, US Dept. of Agriculture (p. 7-8)
The Grocer's Encyclopedia, Artemis Ward:
Corn syrup &
Commerical glucose.
"Corn syrup. This is a product of clear but thick, syrupy consistency which is derived from corn, as the name implies. It is
commonly called 'glucose' among the [confectioners] trade, but this name is rapidly dying out due to the constant effort of the authorities
to discontinue the name 'glucose' because of the unfounded associations people have connected with the purity and wholesomeness of
this prodouct. In all formulas contained in this book the however mention is made, the term 'corn syrup' is use instead of 'glucose.' Corn syrup is
sometimes used in candy because it is cheaper than sugar, but that is not the only reason for using it. In a great many cases it
is essentially used as a 'doctor' to prevent a batch from graining or returning to sugar. It performs a purpose parallel to that of
cream of tartar, but as corn syrup is cheaper to use than cream of tartar and does not require such extacting attention in the batch,
it is use oftener as a 'doctor' than cream of tartar. Corn syrup good stand up better than cream of tartar goods; hence the more common
use of corn syrup in candies intended for wholesale business. Some pieces cannot be made without corn syrup, as, for instance,
caramels and fudges. Honey was formerly used in place of corn syrup in making caramels but it was very expensive to use, and allowed
the batch to grain unless extreme care was taken. Like all materials the batch to grain unless extreme care was taken. Like all
materials, there are different grades of corn syrup, depending on the grade of corn used in making the finished product. Corn syrup
should be used less in the summer than in the winter as it tends to make goods sticky."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W. O. Rigby, 19th edition [1916?] (p. 16)
The most famous corn syrup in the USA is Karo brand, introduced by the Corn Products Refining Company in 1902. History
here.
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999
(p. 98)
"In 1967 new Japanese enzyme technology brought about a revolution in corn syrup development. High fructose corn syrup was made by
a more complete hydrolysis of glucose to fructose. IsoSweet, a hugh fructose corn syrup developed by [A.E. Staley Manufacturing
Company], was approximately 92 percent as sweet as sugar."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor, [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 346)
---The Story of Corn (p. 273-274)
General current US Dept. of Agriculture definition:
"High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS): A corn sweetener derived from the wet milling of corn. Corn starch is converted to a syrup that is nearly all dextrose. HFCS is found in numerous foods and
beverages on the grocery store shelves."
About chocolate & white
chocolate
The True History of Chocolate, Sophie Coe and Michael Coe
---comprehensive study of the history and evolution of chocolate
Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson
---best overview of the topic (chocolate, chocolate candy)
Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
---brief overview of the history of chocolate, including introduction of candy in America
White chocolate is a confection that (until recently) has not been specifically defined. Culinary
evidence confirms this product may, or may not, contain a chocolate derivative (cocoa butter,
for example). Early 20th century companies marketed this product "vanilla chocolate."
Interestingly enough it was promoted as health food.
Choice
Recipes/Water Baker [promotional booklet]
35 pounds sugar
17 pounds corn syrup
1 1/2 gallons water
Cook to 238 degrees; pour on dampened cream slab and when lukewarm stir into a creamy
consistency.
Now take:
20 pounds sugar
10 pounds corn syrup
3 quarts water
Cook to 238 degrees, then remove from the fire and add the first batch which has been creamed.
When the batches are thoroughly mixed, add 5 pounds of Mazetta Creme and 2 ounces of extract
of vanilla. When well mixed, set entire batch over a steam bath and get quite hot, then cast in
starch and when set dip in chocolate. You may make any flavor desired by blending flavor when
the Mazetta Creme is added."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W. O. Rigby, 19th edition [1916?] (p. 98)
[NOTE: This excerpted from White
Chocolate; Establishment of a Standard of Identity, Federal
Register, October 4, 2002.]
[NOTE: this book is THE definative history of chocolate. Ask your librarian to help
you find a copy]
Brittle
About peanuts
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 54)
[NOTE: This book has a very nice concise history of candy]
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford]
1999 (p. 107)
---Listening to America, Stuart Berg Flexner [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1982
(p. 138, 141)
Related food?
Comfits (which later evolved into sugarplums) & pralines
"An Excellent Receipt for Groundnut Candy
To one quart or molasses add half a pint of brown sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter; boil it
for half an hour over a slow fire; then put in a quart of groundnuts, parched and shelled; boil for a
quarter of an hour, and then pour it into a shallow tin pan to harden."
---The Carolina Housewife, Sarah Rutledge, facsimile copy 1847 edition, with an
introduction by Anna Aells Rutledge [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia] 1979 (p.
219)
Have ready one cupful of peanuts shelled and chopped. Be sure you are rid of all the
brown skins. Put one cupful of white sugar in a hot iron frying plan and stir until it is
dissolved. Add the peanuts and turn immediately. As it cools cut into squares."
---The Evening Telegram Cook Book, Emma Paddock Telford [Cupples &
Leon:New york] 1908 (p. 157)
5 pound sugar
2 1/2 pounds corn syrup
1 1/2 pints water
Cook and boil and then add 3 pounds Spanish shelled peanuts, and stir and cook until
peanuts are done, then set kettle off fire and stir in it 1/2 teaspoonful of baking soda.
After the soda is well stirred, drop in a little more soda, about 1/4 teaspoonful, and stir
good. Pour on the slab and spread as thin as possible. When partly cold turn batch
over. By adding soda as above batch will be the same color on both sides, not yellow
on one side and brow on the other."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W. O. Rigby, 19th ed., [1919?] (p. 160-1)
[NOTE: this book also contains a recipe for non-sugar peanut brittle. This is not a
diabetic alternative. It substitutes corn syrup and molasses for refined white sugar.]
(see "Peanut Wafers," #22-24)
---Colonial Virginia Cookery, Jane Carson [Colonial Williamsburg Foundation:Williamsburg VA] 1985 (p. 120-122)
Red crisp almonds or Prawlings (pralines)
Iced almonds (iced with sugar)
Candied cherries
Candied orange peel
Candied ginger
Barley sugar (a precursor to toffee)
March-pane (marzipan)
Pastils (soft gum-like candy)
Comfits
---The Lady's Companion, [London:1753] 6th edition
[NOTE: Colonial-era cooks used books they brought from home. Many of these were published
in London.]
Candied flowers (roses, marigolds, violets, rosemary--yes! Real flowers!)
Candied ginger
Suckets (candied fruits, oranges and lemons were most popular)
Sugar candy (boiled refined sugar)
Losenges (diamond shaped sugar candy...think of today's throat lozenge...flavored with orange,
lemon, rose water)
Fruit pastes (dried, thin sheets of pounded fruit...think of today's "Fruit Roll-ups"...made with real
apricots, peaches, raspberries, gooseberries, apples, plums, quinces, oranges, lemons)
Marchpan (aka marzipan; almond paste which was often colored and deoratively shaped)
---Martha Washington's Book of Cookery, transcribed by Karen Hess [Columbia
University Press:New York] 1995
[NOTE: If you want to see these recipes ask your librarian can help you find a copy of this book.]
Lemon and orange peel candied
Melon citron candied
Anglelica candied
Cassia candied
Orange marmalade
Apricot marmalade
Red quince marmalade
White quince marmalade
Raspberry paste
Currant paste
Gooseberry paste
Orange chips
Apricot chips
Ginger tablet
---The New Art of Cookery According to the Present Practice, Richard Briggs [W. Spotswood, R. Campbell, and B. Johnson:Philadelphia]
1792
Kisses & meringues (sweet, frothy egg white confections; some have hazel nut or cocoanut
centers)
Coconut candy
Lemon candy (rock candy)
Cream candy
Common twist (like candy canes/sticks)
Peppermint, rose or horehound candy
Molasses candy (taffy)
Candied orange or lemon peel
---Mrs. Crowen's American Lady's Cookery Book, Mrs. T. J. Crowen [Dick &
Fitzgerald:New York] 1847
...while most of these candies were enjoyed throughout the country, those with specific colony/state designations in their respective cookbooks are noted.
"Nut Sweet
2 cups maple sugar (or brown sugar)
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup hickory nuts, or walnuts, broken.
In a saucepan combine sugar, water, and butter. Cook over low heat until a candy thermometer inciates 238 degrees F., or until the syrup dropped in cold water
forms a soft ball. Add the nuts. remove from heat and stir until the candy is thick. Drop in spoonsful onto waxed paper and let the patties harden."
---The Thirteen Colonies Cookbook, Mary Donovan et al [Montclair Historical Society:Montclair NJ] 1976 (p. 77) [Connecticut]
Cut rind of 8 oranges into quarters. Cover with cold water. Brink slowly to the boiling point. Remove pan from fire. Drain well. Repat this process, boiling the
orange peel in a total of 5 waters. Drain well each time. With scissors, cut into strips or leaf designs. Make a syrup with 1/4 cut water and 1/2 cup sugar. Add the
peel and boil until all the syrup is absorbed. Cool briefly. When thorouhgly dry, the peel may be dipped in chcoolate coating. Peel may also be rolled in freshly
grated coconut, then sugared. Store in airtight tins, or freeze."
---ibid (p. 115) [New Jersey]
Wash 1 package dried apricots and put them in water to soak overnight. Next morning, bring apricots and water to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove
from heat and drain thoroughly. (Be sure all the water has drained off.) mash the apricots through a sieve, or belnd in a blender until smooth. Measure pulp: return it
to the saucepan and add 1 part sugar to every 3 parts pulp. Bring to a boil and boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly (at thsis tage the mixture may burn easily, so
stir carefully.) Let the mixture cool for 15 minutes; then spread almost paper thin on a large piece of glass, marble slab, or aluminum cookie sheet. Form a
rectangular shape. Place in a warm dry room (an attic is excellent) to dry for 1 to 2 days (it should be pliable enough to roll). Cut the leather into 3-inch squares,
sprinkle with granulated sugar, and roll tightly into rolls about the size of a small pencil. Roll in granulated sugar and stroe in a tightly closed box."
---ibid (p. 251) [Georgia]
Some of the candies which were made in colonial kitchens were very simple mixtures of sugar, water, and herbs. This candy was a confection as well as a lozenge
for colds and sore throats.
3 ounces hoarhound
3 cups water
3 1/2 pounds brown sugar
Add hoarhound to hot water and simmmer for 20 minutes. Stain and add sugar. Cook until syrup forms a hard ball when dropped into cold water or until candy
thermometer registers 265 degrees F. Pour into a buttered pan. When cooled, form into small balls or cut into squares. makes about 5 sozen pieces."
---Foods from the Founding Fathers, Helen Newbury Burke [Exposition Press:Hicksville NY] 1978 (p. 141) [Rhode Island]
2 cups molasses
2 cups brown sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
1 cup water
2 tablespoons butter
Salt
Boil ingredients until brittle when tried in cold water. Pour into hot, buttered pan; pull when cool enough to handle."
---ibid (p. 141) [Rhode Island]
2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups parched benne seed (roasted)
Melt the sugar in a heavy frying pan or saucepan over a low heat, stirring constantly. When sugar is melted, remove from stove, then add benne seed and vanilla
quickly. Pour into a well-buttered pan to about 1/4 inch depth (a medium-size biscuit pan is right). Mark into squares while warm and break along lines when cold.
Makes 8-10 squares."
---ibid (p. 244) [South Carolina]
3 cups brown sugar
1 cup cream or evaporated milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups hickory nuts
Stir sugar and cream together until sugar dissolves. Boil to 234 degrees F. or until a little of the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Cool to
lukewarm. Add vanilla, butter, and nuts, and beat until creamy. Drop from spoon on waxed paper. makes 3 dozen creams."
---ibid (p. 316) [Philadelphia]
1/4 pound walnut halves
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1 tablespoon water
1 egg white
Heat nuts in 350 degree F. oven for a few minutes. Sift together three times the sugar, ginger, salt, nutmeg, and cloves. Add awater to egg whtie and beat until
frothy (not stuff). Dip nuts in egg mixture and roll in spices. Cover bottom of baking sheet with leftover sugar and spices. Arrange nuts over top. Sift remaining sugar
over them. Bake at 275 degrees F. for 1 hour. Remove from oven and shake off excess sugar."
---ibid (p. 316) [Philadelphia]
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup pecans
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Mix all ingredients except vanilla. Bring to a boil and boil for exactly 1 1/2 minutes. Remove from heat, add vanilla, and beat until smooth and creamy. Drop by
spoonfuls onto wax paper. Makes 2 to 3 dozen."
---A Cooking Legacy, Virginia T. Elverson & Mary Ann McLanahan [Walker and Company:New York] 1975 (p. 167)
1 pound dried apricots, ground
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
pecan or walnut halves, or almonds
superfine granulated sugar
Combine apricots, granulated sugar and orange juice in a saucepan. Cook over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Drop by teaspoon
onto waxed paper. When cool, place a pecan or walnut half or an almond in the center, rolling apricot mixture around it. Drop each ball into superfine granulated
sugar to coat completely. Pack in a tightly covered container to store. Makes 3 dozen."
---ibid (p. 166)
Modern American candy (Post Civil
War--1920s)
Parkinson's
Complete Confectioner, (professional text) [online full-text, courtesy of Michigan State
University]
[1877]
Buckeye
Cookery
Baby Ruth (Curtiss)
Hershey Bars (Hershey)
Good & Plenty
Cracker Jacks
Chase's Tween Meals
Tootsie Rolls
Candy Corn (called "Chicken Feed," by Goelitz Confercionery company)
Nik-L-Nips (liquid sugar/flavored filled wax novelties)
NECCO wafers
Hershey's Kisses
Life Savers
Goo Goo Clusters (a southern favorite)
Godenberg's Peanut-Chews (Philadephia area)
Mounds Bards (Peter Paul)
Milky Way Bar (M&M Mars)
Bit-O'Honey
Milk Duds
Heath Bars
Reese's Peanut Butter Cups
Snickers Bar (M&M Mars)
Dubble Bubble bubble gum (Fleer)
Chases's Cherry Mash
Gummi Bears
Pez
Twizzlers
Cotton candy
Conversation Hearts
Jujyfruits (Henry Heide Co.)
Chuckles (jelly candies)
Charleston Chew
Almond Rocha (Brown & Haley)
Mr. Goodbar (Hershey's)
Mike & Ike
SOURCES: Candy: The Sweet History/Beth Kimmerle, The Food Timeline, The Food Chronology/James Trager
Chocolate truffles
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 351)
"Chocolate truffles. Dip a plain vanilla cream center, one as small as possible in milk chocolate
coating,
then before the coating dries, roll each piece in macaroon cocoanut so that the cocoanut sticks to
the
chocolate. Now lay them on a cheet of wax paper and allow to dry."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W.O. Rigby, 19th edition (undated, early 1920s probably) (p. 84)
Cotton candy
[1769]
"To spin a Silver Web for covering Sweetmeats
Take a quarter of a pound of treble-refined sugar in one lump, and set it before a moderate fire on
the middle of a silver salver or pewter plate. Set it a little aslant, and when it begins to run like
clear water to the edge of the plate or salver, have ready a tin cover or china bowl set on a still,
with the mouth downward close to your sugar that it may not cool by carrying too far. Then take
a clean knife and take up as much of the syrup as the point will hold, and a fine thread will come
from the point, which you must draw as quicky as possible backwards and forwards and also
around the mould, as long as it will spin from the knife. Be very careful you do not drop the syrup
on the web, if you do it will spoil it. Then dip your knife into the syrup again and take up more,
and so keep spinning till your sugar is done or your web is thick enough. Be sure you do not let
the knife touch the lump on the plate that is not melted, it will make it brittle and not spin at all. If
your sugar is spent before your web is done put fresh sugar on a plate or salver, and not spin
from the same plate again. If you don't want the web to cover the sweetmeats immediately, set it
in a deep pewter from getting to it, and set it before the fire, it requires to be kept warm or it will
fall. When your dinner or supper is dished, have ready a plate or dish of the size of your web filled
with different coloured sweetmeats, and set your web over it. It is pretty for a middle, where the
dishes are few, or corner where the number is large."
---The Experienced English Housekeeper, Elizabeth Raffald, with an introduction by Roy
Shipperbottom [Southover Press:East Sussex UK] 1996 (p. 92)
[NOTE: this book also has instructions for a gold web and to make a Dessert of Spun Sugar.]
On
sugar spinning
The Complete Confectioner, Pastry Cook and Baker, J.M. Sanderson
[Lippincott:Philadelphia] (p. 33+)
Spun Sugar for Ornamental Purposes
--Required: loaf sugar and half its weight in water. The best cane sugar should be used, as failure
if almost sure with inferior sugar. This is to be put in a copper pan and brought to the boil, and
freed from any scum thay may rise. When the surface begins to look bubbly it is nearly ready. To
test it, dip a knife or the end of a steel in cold water, and be sure that it is cold, or a mistake may
arise; then dip this in the boiling sugar, then in cold water again, and if it is brittle, and leaves the
knife or steel, it is done; should it cling an be soft it must be boiled longer. When it is done, take
small portions and pass it quickly to and fro to form threads over an oiled rolling pin held in the
left hand. A fork is best to use to take up the sugar. Should this be intended for "draping" a
vol-au-vent or other sweet, the pin should be moved, so that the sugar falls into position, and is
not
handled. To be explicit, as it leaves the pin it is wound round the sweet. There is considerable art
in this operation, and it is quite likely that a number of failures will precede success; it is one of
those branches of the cuisine that require a practical lesson. It is always well to rub a little oil on
the hands and wrists in the case the sugar should splash them, and by standing on a stool, holding
the left arm low, and moving the right hand high in the air, the work is facilitated."
---Cassell's New Universal Cookery Book, Lizzie Heritage [Cassell and
Company:London] (p. 811)
Candy Machine
Skuse's Complete Confectioner [London, undated, probably late 1890s/early 1900s]
contains similar instructions on page 71:
To all whom it may concern; Be it known that we, William J. Morrison and John C. Wharton,
citizens of the United States, residing at Nashville, in the County of Davidson and State of
Tennessee, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Candy-Machines, of which the
following is a specification. Our invention relates to improvements in candy-making, or, as
commonly called, "candy-machines," in which a revolvable or rotating pan or vessel containing
cand or melted sugar causes the said candy or melted sugar to form into masses of thread-like or
silk-like filaments by the centrifugal force due to the rotation of the vessel. The object of our
invention is to obtain an edible product consisting of the said filaments of melted and "spun" sugar
or candy."
---U.S. Patent #618,428 January 31, 1899. Application filed December 23, 1897.
[NOTE: you can view the full image of this patent online. Accessible by patent number only,
requires special viewing software.]
Sugar Candy, Pink and White
Sugar candy is made in a variety of colours. The foreign, which is imported in large quantities,
varying in shades between very dark brown and pale yellow, the prices charged for these qualities
being very little above the sugar value, therefore unprofitable to make, but the pink and white
candy is not so common, and generally command a renumerative figure, besides being attractive
as a window decoration. The process is simple and interesting. Copper pans are sold by
machinists for the purpose, but for small makers a rough coller or white metal pan will answer, so
long as its sides are a little wider at the top than the bottom, in order that the crystalized sugar
may
fall out unbroken. Perforate the pan with small holes, about three inches apart, pass a thread
through from one hole to another, so that the thread runs at equal distances throughout the
centre of
the pan, then stop up the holes from the outside with a thin coating of beeswax and resin to keep
the syrup from running through. When the pan has been got ready, boil sufficient sugar to fill it, in
the proportion of 7-lbs. sugar to 3 pints of water, to the degree of thread, or 230; then pour the
contents into the pan and stand it on the drying room for three or four days; when the crystals are
heavy enough, which you can tell by examining them, pour off the superfluous syrup; rinse the
candy in lukewarm water and stand it in the drying room till dry. To make the pink, of course,
colour the syrup, but be careful in tinging it very lightly. N.B.-When goods are undergoing the
process of crystalizing, the vessel in which they are must not be disturbed."
---"Spun Heaven," Bruce Feiler, Gourmet, February 2000 (p. 66+)
[NOTE: this is an excellent article. Ask your librarian to help you find a copy.]
Divinity
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
251)
---Dictionary of American Regional English, Frederick G. Cassidy and Joan Houston Hall,
editors, [Belknap Press of Harvard University:Cambridge MA] 1985, volume II D-H (p. 91)
[NOTE: This book has a map showing where this particular term is most popular. Your librarian
can help you find a copy of this book/page if you need it.]
---Listening to America, Stuart Berg Flexner [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1982 (p.
139)
"Divinity is a tricky confection to make under the best circumstances--almost impossible under less than good. The recipe in one community cookbook advises a short consultation with the local meteorologist: "Please remember candy doesn't set unless the barometer reads 30 in. or over; doesn't make a difference whether it's raining or not, just watch your t.v. for the barometric pressure." Divinity like most other Southern canides shows up around the winter holidays. It is sort of a companion piece to fudge in Christmas gift boxes.
---Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie, Bill Neal [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1996 (p. 138)
[1905]
"Divinity Candy. Mrs. C.C. Hall, Hollywood.--One pint golden drip syrup, one pint sweet milk one cup granulated sugar,
butter size of a walnut. Boil until a soft ball can be made. Remove from fire ahd whip until it is creamy, then pour over one-half
pound of shelled Califoania English walnuts."
---The Times Cookbook
"In place of the time-honored "fudge," she may make the new "Divinity Fudge," a sweet that is no
more expensive, that takes but little more time, but that is far more delicious. Melt a cupful of
sugar in a saucepan; when melted, pour it into another saucepan in which there is already a cupful
of cold milk. Put this pan on the fire and cook slowly until the two have blended; then add two or
more cupfuls of granulated sugar, and one more cupful of cold milk, and reheat, cooking slowly
until it is of proper consistency to remove from the stove. At this time add a heaping teaspoonful
of butter and a cupful of finely chopped nut meats; beat the mixture with a large spoon until
almost cold, then spread it over buttered pans, and line for cutting, like fudge."
---"Christmas Cheer as Ever Calls on the Housewife for Sweets, Pies and All the Rest of the
Good Things of the Holidays," The New York Times, December 17, 1907 (p. SM5)
"Divinity Fudge
Here is a recipe for Divinity Fudge, which is great:
2 cups sugar, 1/2 cup cup hot water, 1/2 cup corn syrup. Cook until it forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water. Have
ready, in a rather deep dish, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth (1 egg may be used, not so good). Pour the cooked
mixture over the whites of the eggs. Beat in the 1 cup walnuts. Beat until of a creamy consistency. Pour onto buttered pan. Cool, cut
in squares. Janice Meredith."
---"Divinity Fidge," Boston Daily Globe, April 28, 1910 (p. 11)
"Divinity.
Two cupfuls gran.[granulated] Sugar, 1/2 cupful water, 1/2 cupful syrup.
Boil until it hardens in cold water. Beat whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, then pour syrup over
them and add 1 cupful chopped nuts. Flavor with vanilla. Beat until stiff and drip with spoon on
parafine paper."
---The Concord Cook Book, compiled by Mrs. Adolph Guttman and Mrs. Levi
Oppenheimer for
the Ladies' Auxilary, Society of Concord Syracuse N.Y. first edition [Dehler Press:Syracuse NY]
1915 (p. 276)
"Divinity Fudge
Home candy economy seems on the increase, to judge from the requests that come to this column for recipes. M.A. wishes a recipe
for "divinity." One of the colored corn sirups, probably the best known, is used by many people, but plain glucose, which
costs a little less, makes a whiter candy. In making all candies I use a thermometer, because it saves time and attention and I
get more uniform results, but my neighbor, fortunately i this case, does not, so Mrs. Y. lets me use her recipe herewith:
"This requires two pans or kettles. In pan No. 1, put one cup of sugar and one-half cup of water. In pan NO. 2 put three cups
of sugar one one cup of corn sirup. Boil No. 1 until it spins a thread. Boil No. 2 until it forms a soft ball when dropped in water.
Beat No. 1 into the whites of two eggs, and as soon as No. 2 is done beat into the egg mixture. Beat on a platter about ten minutes,
or until creamy. Before it gets firm beat in a cup of pecan nuts and two teaspoons of vanilla. Beat until firm. Turn out on to a
cloth that has been wet in cold water and roll up into a loaf. When cool enough cit down into slices."
---"Tribune Cook Book," Jane Eddington, Chicago Daily Tribune, February 14, 1917 (p. 10)
"Divinity Fudge
3 cups light brown sugar
3/4 cup Karo syrup
1 1/4 cups nut meats or chopped crystallized fruit
3 egg whites
1 cup cold water.
Mix in saucepan sugar, syrup and water. Cook until mixture reaches soft-ball stage. Whip egg
whites very stiff and dry, then add syrup mixture in a small stream, beating all the time until
mixture begins to thicken. Stir in nut meats or fruit, continue stirring until creamy. Pour in
buttered pan. Cut in squares when cold."
---Every Woman's Cook Book, Mrs. Chas. F. Moritz [Cupples & Leon: New York] (p.
599-600)
"Divinity is a tricky confection to make under the best circumstances--almost impossible under less than good. The recipe in one community cookbook advises a
short consultation with the local meteorologist: "Please remember candy doesn't set unless the barometer reads 30 in. or over; doesn't make a difference whether
it's raining or not, just watch your t.v. for the barometric pressure." Divinity like most other Southern candies shows up around the winter holidays. It is sort of a
companion piece to fudge in Christmas gift boxes."
---Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie, Bill Neal [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1996 (p. 138)
Dolly mixtures
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davdison [OxforUniversity Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
455)
Sugar 20lb
Glucose 20lb
Water 5pt
Gelatin 4lb
Citric acid powder 4 1/2oz
Run into starch impressions. Set aside until next day. Brush thoroughly and glaze."
---Skuse's Complete Confectioner, W. J. Bush & Co. editor, 13th edition [W.J.
Bush:London]
1957 (p. 200)
Fondant
"Fondant. [a. Fr. fondant n. and pr. pple. of fondre to melt.] A sweetmeat made chiefly in France: (see quots.). Also attrib. 1877 Encycl. Brit. VI. 257 Fondants..
are made from solutions boiled to the point of crystallization, properly coloured and flavoured, and cast into moulds made of starch. 1892-4 Encycl. Cookery
(Garrett) I. 602/1 Fondants. This term has become familiar to us for kinds of soft sweets that ‘melt’ in the mouth. Ibid. 602/2 Divide the Fondant-paste into two
portions."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 128-9)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 311-312)
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 75-77)
Fondant icings date to the early 20th century:
---Treatise on Cake Making, Fleischmann Division, Standard Brands Inc. [New York] 1935 (p. 151)
FoodTV's Ace of Cakes show features georgeous cakes draped with a substance they
call rolled fondant. This artful substance appears to descend from Australian cake decorating
traditions, where it was first known as "plastic icing." The earliest references we find to "rolled fondant" in American print appears in the early 1980s.
---Wedding Cakes and Cultural History, Simon R. Charsley [Routledge:New York] 1992 (p. 24-25)
"Plastic icing. Gone are the days when the knife bent dangerously before piercing the cake and fear clutched the heart of the
'cutter', wondering if indded, dynamite would be a better substitute to break the cement-like covering strongly defying all
efforts to slice neatly. The plastic icing and other fondants used today are easily handlted, and give a smooth, dull, satin-like
surface which is a delight upon which to work. This icing remains soft to the bite for long and indefinite periods and is use
mainly for covering 'special occasion' cakes of a denser nature, usually fruit cake. Platis icing should never be used to cover a
sponge as there is insufficient stability in the cake to support it."
---Australian Book of Cake Decorating, Bernice Vercoe & Dorothy Evans [Paul Hamlyn:Sydney] 1973 (p. 11)
[NOTE: this book contains a recipe for Mixing Plastic Icing. If you would like a copy please let us know.]
---"Cake Decorating School Remains at Core of Expanded Wilton Enterprises," Phyllis Magida, Chicago Tribune, Apr 30, 1987 (p. 4)
---"Cooking School Summer Class," New York Times, Jun 3, 1981, (p. C.16)
Fondant Icing To Cover 1lb. Cake
Sift 3 lb. of icing sugar into bowl. Add 2 egg whites, 2 tablespoons glycerine 1/2 lb softened glucose. Beat with a wooden spoon until a stiff mixtuer. Turn out on board sifted with icing
sugar. Knead until a workable paste and quite smooth. Colour if desired. Vlavour with a few drips of almond or lemon essence. Stand over night. When covered and set decorate
lightly with Royal Icing...
Roll icing 1/4in. thick on sugared board. Wrap round rolling pin. Damp surface of cake as directed. Unroll paste over surface. Press on till perfectly smooth and hand dipped
in icing sugar. Damp sides of cake as directed. Cut paste rolled 1/4in. thick into strips wide enough to cover sides. Press same on. Stand overnight to get firm."
---The Schauer Australian Cookery Book, 11th edition [W.R. Smith & Paterson: Brisbane] 1956 (p. 598-599)
Fudge
&
Lore [the study of sociology & popular culture]...the "invention" of fudge is typically attributed to
priviledged Ivy League college girls, not home-ec (aka domestic science) majors. Quite a turn
from most foods generated in the dawning years of the 20th century.
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar Friedman:New
York] (p. 135)
[NOTE: The Irish recipe for "fadge" makes an apple potato cake. It was traditionally served on
the feast of Samhain (Halloween).]
---Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of
Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004(p. 72)
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 133)
[1884] Chocolate Caramels
"One cup of molasses, half a cup of sugar, one quarter of a pound of chocolate, cut fine, half a
cup of milk, and one heaping tablespoonful of butter. Boil all together, stirring all the time. When
it hardens in cold water, pour into shallow pans, as it cools cut in small squares."
---Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Mrs. D. A. Lincoln [1884] [Dover
Publications:Mineola NY] 1996 (p. 390)
[1893] Fudges
"Four cups granulated sugar; one cup cream; one cup water; one-half cake chocolate; one-half
cup
butter. Cook until it just holds together, then add two teaspoonfuls extract of vanilla and pour
into pans, not buttered. When cool enough to bear finger in, stir it until it no longer runs. It should
not grain, but be smooth. Cut into squares."---From Mrs. J. Montgomery Smith, of Wisconsin,
Alternate Lady Manager
---Favorite Dishes: A Columbian Autograph Souvenir Cookery Book, Carrie V.
Schulman, facsimile edition, introductions by Reid Badger and Bruce King [University of Illinois
Press:Chicago] 2001 (p. 197)
4 ounces of chocolate
2 cups of sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
1/2 cup of milk
1 rounding tablespoonful of butter
Put the sugar, butter, chocolate and milk in a saucepan over the fire until thoroughly melted. Boil,
stirring constantly, until the mixture hardens when dropped into cold water; take from the fire,
add the vanilla, and turn quickly out to cool. When cold, cut into squares."
---Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, Sarah Tyson Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia]
1902 (p. 629)
"The name fudge is applied to a large group of candies made of sugar boiled with water, milk, or
cream, from 230 degrees F. To 238 degrees F., and stirred or worked with a paddle until candy
becomes firm. If stirred while still hot, the resulting candy is coarse and granular. To prevent this,
the syrup should be cooled in the saucepan in which it is cooked, or poured out upon a marble
slab, platter, or agate tray that has been slightly moistened with a piece of wet cheesecloth. It
should not be disturbed until cool. It should then be stirred with a wooden spoon, or worked with
a spatula forward and lifting up the mass, turning it over and bringing it back, until the whole
begins to get stiff. At this stage, turn into a pan, or, better still, leave the candy between bars on
wax paper on a board, regulating the size of the open space according to the amount of candy and
the thickness desired."
[NOTE: this book contains the following recipes recipes for fudge: chocolate, cocoa, sour cream,
chocolate acorns, chocolate Brazil nut, chocolate marshmallow, chocolate walnut, condensed
milk, cream nut, plum pudding, sultana, caramel, cocoanut, cocoanut cream, coffee, coffee
cocoanut, fruit, ginger, marshmallow, maple marshmallow, maple chocolate, maple nut, praline,
maple cream, walnut maple, pecan maple, orange, peanut butter, raisin, raspberry, vanilla, nut,
vanilla opera, rainbow, maraschino opera, orange flower opera, pistachio, orange opera, genessee,
brown sugar (penuche), fig penuche, fruit penuche, marshmallow penuche, pecan penuche, peanut
penuche, Postum penuche (with instant Postum cereal), raisin penuche, double fudge (I & II),
divinity, sea foam, Grapenuts divinity (also a cereal), cream mints, cherry puffs, nut puffs, and
pineapple puffs.
There are several theories explaining why these candies are connected to the opera, none of them
conclusive:
---SUGAR, CREAM, CHOCOLATE - OF COURSE IT'S GOOD, Steve Stephens, The
Columbus Dispatch, February 28, 1994 (p. 8c)
---Dictionary of American Regional English, Frederick G. Cassidy & Joan Houston Hall,
volume III (p. 890)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
312)
There is no question confections called "Opera Creams" are a Cincinnati specialty. We respect the claim made by the Papas family with respect to their opera
creams. Our culinary history sources confirme these confections existed in the early 20th century but do not specifically credit Papas (or any other person/place)
with the *invention* of this candy. In fact, most foods are not invented. They evolve. Why are they called "Opera?"
Cincinnati Enquirer [October 14, 2004]
"Opera Creams
Melt together three-fourths cup of milk, two cups sugar, two squares chocolate. Boil three or four minutes, flavor and set in cool place until absolutely cold, then
beat until it becomes creamy. Drop into balls on waxed paper."
---Carbondale Cook Book, prepared by the Young Lady Workers of the Methodist Episcopal Church of Carbondale, PA, 7th edition, revised and enlarged [International Textbook Press:Scranton PA] 1924 (p. 193)
"Opera Bonbons. Color and flavor as desired small portions of Opera Fondant. With the hands shape in small balls, putting a piece of nut, cherry, or marshmallow
in the center of each ball. Melt another portion of Opera Fondant in a double boiler over hot water, stirring constantly. Add half a teaspoon of vanilla, and drop
centers one at a time in the fondant. Remove with candy dipper or two-tined fork to waxed paper. When enough white bonbons have been made, add a little pink
or green color paste and raspberry or almond extract to taste to the melted fondant. Dip more of the centers, stirring the fondant, and reheating it if it becomes too
stiff. Then add to remaining fondant one square melted chocolate, and dip remaining balls. In this way a great variety of attractive bonbons may be produced.
Other flavors and colors may be used for greater variety, and tops may be decorated with small pices of nuts or cherries if desired. The centers may also be dipped
in melted coating chocolate. White Fondants 1, II , or III may be used instead of Opera Fondant."
---The Candy Cook Book, Alice Bradley [Little, Brown:Boston] 1929 (p. 98-99)
"Vanilla Opera Fudge.
Related foods? Divinity & brownies.
2 cups sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon cream of tarter
---The Candy Book, Alice Bradley [Little, Brown:Boston] 1929 (p. 67)
"Chocolate Opera Fudge
Put three squares of bitter chocolate in to a saucepan and set it over warm water; when melted add alternately and gradually two cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of
medium cream, also one teaspoonful of corn syrup and a pinch of salt. Boil to 230 deg. Fahr. Pour on marble slab, let cool slightly and work like fondant. When it
can be handled knead till creamy and flavor with a little orange extract, then shape into little balls and let crust."
---"Requested Recipes," Marian Manners, Los Angeles Times, November 30, 1931 (p. A7)
Halva
"Halva. Name of a hugely varied range of confections made in the Middle East, Central Asia, and
India, derived from the Arabic root hulw, sweet. In 7th century Arabia, the word meant a paste of
dates kneaded with milk. By the 9th century, possibly by assimilating the ancient Persian
sweetmeat afroshag, it had acquired a meaning of wheat flour or semolina, cooked by frying or
toasting and worked into a more or less stiff paste with a sweetening agent such as sugar syrup,
date syrup, grape syrup, or honey by stirring the mass together over a gentle heat. Usually a
flavouring was added such as nuts, rosewater, or pureed cooked carrots (still a popular
flavouring). The finished sweetmeat would be cut into bars or moulded into fanciful shapes such
as fish. Halva spread both eastwards and westwards, with the result that is is made with a wide
variety of ingredients, methods, and flavourings..."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
367)
[NOTE: This books has much information on the different types of halva made in different parts
of the world. If you need details, please ask your librarian to help you obtain copies of this page]
"One...Muslim innovation that spread through the subcontinent [India] with remarkable speed--an
addition to sweetmeats. Just as Spain had learned of marzipan and nougat from the Arabs, so
India discovered the delights of sugar candy. (The word candy' is derived from the Arabic for
sugar.) Confections of all kinds, made from sugar alone, from sugar and almonds, from sugar and
rice flour, from sugar and coconut, became immensely popular as did sweet desserts such as
halwa...Muglai halwa probably resembled modern halva--based on pureed vegetables or grain,
enriched with sugar and almonds--more than than Baghdad original, which was more like an
almond-spiked fudge."
---Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988 (p. 272)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York]
1999 (p. 148)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
713)
"Halwa Al.
Two pounds of sugar, half a pound of bees' honey, half a bound of sesame oil and four ounces of
starch. Stir it middling fine [one the fire until it takes consistency, then spread it on a smooth tile].
Put four ounces of sugar on it, and three ounces of finely pounded pistachios, and musk and
rose-water: Spread this filling on it, then cover it with another cloak of halwa and cut it up into
triangles. It is as delicious as can be. If you wish, make the filling into meatballs like luqma
[luqmat al-qadi], and cover it was the mentioned halawa, and it is saciniyya."
---Medieval Arab Cookery: Essays and Translations, by Maxime Rodinson, A.J. Arberry
& Charles Perry [Prospect Books:Devon] 2001 (p. 456)
Dissolve sugar in a cauldron. On every two pounds of it put two pounds of honey and a quarter of
a pound of rose-water, and cook it on a quiet fire until it is chewy in the mouth. Leave it a little
while, and throw it on a smooth stone tile and knead it with about two ounces of crushed peeled
almonds or pistachios. Leave it until it cooks, and take it up. If you want, feed it with them [the
almonds and pistachios], and add hazelnuts and toasted chickpeas. It comes out nice. If you want,
colour it with a little saffron before it comes off the fire. You might ound the almonds fine and
mix them with it, and you might take it form the tile and beat it on an iron peg pounded into the
wall until it turns white and knead it with the peeled pounded pistachios. Make it into cakes and
geometrical shapes [tamathil] and so forth. You might colour it while it is on the fire, either with
saffron or cinnabar, whichever colour you want. There is a kind kneaded with toasted sesame
seeds or poppy seed, and it made into tamathil as we did before."
---ibid (p. 455)
[[NOTE: This source contains several halwa recipes. Your local public librarian will be happy to
help you obtain a copy.]
Jelly beans
---Sweets: A History of Temptation, Tim Richardson [Bantam Books:London] 2002 (p. 128-132)
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford
University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 182)
---Sugar Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 132-3)
"Turkish delight is a gelatinous sweet of Turkish origin, coated in powdered sugar. It is variously flavored and
coloured, although the variety most commonly seen in the West is made with rose water, and is consequently pink. It
is cut into cubes, and was originally called in English 'lumps of delight', a term Dickens needed to explain in 1870:
"I want to got the the Lumps-of-Delight shop," "To the-?" "A Turkish sweetmeat, sir"' (Mystery of Edwin Drood).
The name Turkish delight itself is first recorded in 1877. The Turkish term for the sweet is rahat lokum, a borrowing
from Arabic rahat al-hulqum, which literally means throat's ease."
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 351-2)
Liquorice
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple & Kriemhild Conee Ornelas
[Cambridge University Press:Cambridge] 2000, Volume Two (p. 1802)
---Food in the Ancient World From A to Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p.
197)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford Universtiy Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
455)
[NOTE: this source site to sources for further study. Ask your librarian to help you track them
down.]
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p.
191-2)
---Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery with Numerous Illustrations [Cassell, Petter, Galpin &
Co.:London] 1875? (p. 382)
---The Grocers' Hand Book and Directory for 1886, Artemas Ward [Philadephia Grocer
Publishing Company:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 95)
History of
Liquorice, from the Liquorice organization
[NOTE: check links for health, plant & recipes]
"Against the cough: liquorice and marshmallow," Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of
Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 165-175)
Lollipops
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999
(p. 768)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999
(p. 210)
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002
(p. 193)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford]
1999 (p. 459)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 188)
"All day suckers or loulopops.
This is an old-time piece which has lately come into favor once more. It is more or less
a wholesale piece, but is simple to make if the small shop has a sucker machine. It is
made as follows: 10 pounds sugar, 10 pounds corn syrup, 1 quart water. Cook to 290
degrees F., then pour out on a slab. Fold in edges and use work up bar...Color and
flavor to suit then spin in strips 1 1/4 inches thick and feed into sucker machine."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W. O. Rigby, 19th edition, [USA]
1918/1919? (p. 194)
Make Barley Sugar or Butterscotch Wafer mixture, pour onto oiled marble slab, cook
slightly, roll up like jelly roll, toss back and forth until cool enough to handle, cut off with
scissors in pieces one and one half inches long, and insert stick in one end. With palm
of hand press into shape. Wrap in wax paper."
---The Candy Cook Book, Alice Bradly [Little Brown:Boston] 1929 (p. 136)
Marmalade
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidsion [Oxford Univeristy Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 483)
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 203-4)
[1747]
"Orange Marmalade. Take the best Seville Oranges, cut them in Quarters, grate them to take out the Bitterness, put them in Water, which you must shift twice
or thrice a Day for three Days; then boil them, shifting the Water till they are tender, then shred them very small, them pick out the Skins and Seeds from the Meat
which you pulled out, and put it to the Peel that is shread; and to a Pound of that Pulp take a Pound of double-refined Sugar. Wet your Sugar with Water, and boil
it up to a candy Height, (wth a very quick Fire) which you may know by the dropping of it; for it hangs like a Hair; then take off the Fire, put in your Pulp, stir it
well together, then set it on the Embers, and stir it till it is thick, but let it not boil. If you would have it cut like Marmalade, add some Jelly of Pippins, and allow
Sugar for it."
---The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, Hannah Glasse, facsimile 1747 edition [Prospect Books:Devon] 1995 (p. 152)
[NOTE: Mrs. Glasse also provides recipes for White Marmalade and Red Marmalade, both made with quinces.]
"Scotch orange-chip marmalade.--Take equal weight of fine loaf-sugar and Seville oranges. Wipe and grate the oranges, but not too much. [The outer grate boiled
up with sugar will make an excellent conserve for rice, custard, or batter puddings.] Cut the oranges the cross way, and squeeze out the juice through a small sieve.
Scrape off the pulp from the inner skins, and pick out the seeds. Boil the skins till perfectly tender, changing the water to take off part of the bitter. When cool,
scrape the coarse, white, and thready part from the skins, and trussing three or four skins together for despatch, cut them into narrow chips. Clarify the sugar, and
put the chips, pulp, and juice to it. Add, when boiled for ten minutes, the juice and grate of two lemons to every dozen of oranges. Skim and boil for twenty minutes;
to and cover when cold. --Obs. There are variou ways of making this favourite marmalade. The half of the boiled skins may be pounded before they are mixed;
and if the chips look too numerous, part of them may be withheld for pudding-seasoning. The orange-grate, if a strong flavour is wanted, may either be added in
substance, or infused, and the tincture strained and added to the marmamalde when boiling. Where marmalade is made in large quantities for exportation, the
various articles are prepared and put at once into a thin syrup, and boiled for from four to six hours, and potted in large jars. Orange-marmalade bay be thinned,
with apple-jelly, or when used at breakfast or tea, it may be liquefied extmpore with a little tea."
---Cook and Housewife's Manual, Mistress Margaret Dods, facsimile 1829 edition [Rosters Ltd.:London] 1988 (p. 434-5)
[NOTE: Mrs. Dods also provides recipes for Smooth orange-marmalde, Transparent orange marmalade, Lemon marmalade, Apple marmalade, and Apricot and plum jam marmalade.]
"Genuine Scotch Marmalade. Take some bitter oranges, and double their weight of sugar; cut the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off, and if the marmalade
be not wanted very thick, take off some of the spongy white skin inside the rind. Cut the chips as thin as possible, and about half an inch long, and divide the pulp
into small bits, removing carefully the seeds, which may be steeped in part of the water that is to make the marmalade, and which must be in the proportion of a
quart to a pound of fruit. Put the cups and pulp into a deep earthen dish, and pour the water boiling over them; let them remain for twelve or fourteen hours, and
then turn the whole into the preserving pan, and boil it until the chips are perfectly tender. When they are so, add by degrees the sugar (which should be previously
pounded), and boil it until it jellies. The water in which the seeds have been steeped, and whcih must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of the
preserve, should be poured into a hair-sieve, and the seeds well worked in it with the back of a spoon; a strong clear jelly will be obtained by this means, which
must be washed off them by pouring their own liquor through the sieve in small portions over them. This must be added to the fruit when it is first set on the fire.
Oranges, 3 lbs.; water, 2 quarts; sugar, 6 lbs. Obs.--This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is guaranteed as an excellent one by the Scottish lady from
whom it was procured."
---Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton, facsimile 1845 edition [Southover Press:East Sussex] 1993 (p. 438)
[NOTE: Mrs. Acton also provides recipe for apple, apricot, bargerry, Imperatrice plum, orange (Portuguese recepti), clear (author's receipt), peach, pineapple (a new receipt), quince and quince & apple marmalades.]
Mrs. Beeton's Book of Cookery: (no. 1502) &
(no. 1566 et seq)
Marshmallows
---Skuse's Complete Confectioner, 13th edition [W.J. Bush & Company:London] 1957
(p. 145)
---How Products are Made Volume 3, Krapp & Longe, editors[Gale:Detroit] 1994 (pages
276-277).
---Food in the Ancient World From A-Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p.
206)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davdison [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
481)
[Ancient]
RECIPES USING THE MARSHMALLOW PLANT
Ancient marshmallows were percieved as cures, not confections. Instructions for preparing the
plant for human consumption most likely first appeared in medical texts and herbals. Platina's "On
the Seasoning of Mallow" (On Right Pleasure, Book IV, section 8 [1475]) extols the healing
qualities of mallow but does not provide a recipe for making it. If you are conducting extensive
academic/scientific research on this topic, contact the librarians at in one of the larger medical
schools, such as the New York Academy of Medicine. These libraries contain historic texts. Note:
you will probably have to visit the library and do the research yourself, in Latin.
If you want to make modern marshmallows using mallow plants check these recipes.
Pastes formed with gum
(uses gum arabic are real marsh mallow plant roots)
"Marshmallow.This is a wholesome plant, and very palatable when boiled, and afterwards fried
with onions and butter. In seasons of scarcity, the inhabitants of some of the eastern countries
often have recourse to it as a principle article of food."
---Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery with Numerous Illustrations [Cassell, Petter,
Galpin:London] (p. 410)
Marshmallows.--Cover an ounce of carefully picked gum arabic with 4 tablespoonfuls of
water, and let stand for an hour. Heat the gum in a double boiler until it is dissolved. Strain
through cheese cloth and while in about 3 1/2 ounces of Confectioners' XXX sugar. Place on a
moderate fire and beat for 3/4 of an hour, or until it comes to a stiff froth. Remove from the fire,
beat 2 or 3 minutes while cooling and stir in 1/2 teaspoonful vanilla. Dust a tin pan with
cornstarch, pour in the marshmallow, dust cornstarch over the top and set aside to cool. When
cold
cut into squares with a knife dipped in cornstarch, roll the squares in the starch and pack away in
tin or other tight boxes."
---Household Discoveries: An Encyclopedia of Practical Recipes and Processes, Sidney
Morse [Success Company:New York] (p. 538)
Toasted marshmallows
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
whites 3 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Macaroons
Dissolve gelatine in boiling water, add sugar, and a soon as dissolved set bowl containing mixture
in pan of ice water; then add whites of eggs and vanilla and beat until mixture thickens. Turn into
a shallow pan, first dipped in cold water, and let stand until thoroughly chilled. Remove from pan
and cut in pieces the size and shape of marshmallows; then roll in macaroons with have beeen
dried and rolled. Serve with sugar and cream."
---Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt Farmer [Little Brown:Boston] (p.
523)
[NOTE: This book also has recipes for marshmallow cake with marshmallow cream (icing),
marshmallow chocolate cake, marshmallow frosting and marshmallow gingerbread. Marshmallow
hot chocolate recipe instructs the cook to place inexpensive marshmallows-- "they melt more
quickly"--in the bottom of a cup and pour the hot chocolate over them!.]
Marshmallows
As a rule it is better and less costly to purchase marhsmallows than to try to make them. Here,
however, is a recipe should you desire to make them: Soak three ounces of gum arabic in one
cupful of water for two hours, cook in a double boiler until dissolved. Strain, return to saucepan,
and add one cupful of powdered sugar; stir until stiff and white. Add one teaspoonful of vanilla,
beat it in and pour the mixture into pans which have been rubbed over with cornstarch. Cut in
squares when cold and roll in cornstarch and sugar, in the proportions of three parts cornstarch to
one of sugar."
---Cooking Menus Service, Ida Baily Allen [Doubleday:Garden City] (p. 796)
[NOTE: This book has instructions for making a marshmallow doll (p. 799), and recipes for
marshmallow cream (cake filling), marshmallow cream sauce, marshmallow fondant icing,
marshmallow frosting, marshmallow fruit sauce, marshmallow fudge, marshmallow icing
(uncooked), marshmallow layer cake, marshmallow lemon cake and marhsmallow pumpkin pie.]
[Note: these recipes were submitted by a reader, they have no dates. They will produce
"modern" marshmallows, not ancient cures.Gum arabic is not an ancient
ingredient.]
Recipe for Marshmallow sweets
Make sure the mallow roots aren't moldy or too woody.
Marshmallow gives off almost twice its own weight of
mucilaginous gel when placed in water.
4 tablespoons marshmallow roots
28 tablespoons refined sugar
20 tablespoons gum arabic
Water of orange flowers (for aroma or instead of plain water)
2 cups water
1-2 egg whites, well beaten
Make a tea of marshmallow roots by simmering in a pint
of water for twenty to thirty minutes. Add additional
water if it simmers down. Strain out the roots. Heat the
gum and marshmallow decoction (water) in a double boiler
until they are dissolved together. Strain with pressure.
Stir in the sugar as quickly as possible. When dissolved,
add the well beaten egg whites, stirring constantly, but
take off the fire and continue to stir. Lay out on a flat
surface. Let cool, and cut into smaller pieces.
(Recipe from Herbal Medicine by Diane Dincin Buchman, Ph.D.)
(Pate de guimauve was the French confection made from the roots.)
Take of decoction of:
marshmallow roots 4 ounces;
water 1 gallon.
Boil down to 4 pints and strain; then add
gum arabic 1/2 a pound;
refined sugar 2 pounds.
Evaporate to an extract; then take from the fire, stir it
quickly with:
the whites of 12 eggs previously beaten to a froth;
then add, while stirring.
The general concensus of the food history sources is that Marshmallow Fluff was the first
marsmallow creme to
be manufactured and marketed on a large scale to the American public.
"Is Fluff the same as Marshmallow Creme?
Generically, they are the same, but Fluff is made by a costly, batch-whipping process. Creme is
whipped in a continuous mixing process. The differing results are quite evident." (
Durkee &
Mower).
"Marshmallow cake.
Ms. Farmer does not give a recipe for Marshmallow Cream in this book (perhaps an oversight?).
She does give a recipe for Marshmallow Paste in the cake filling section:
1/2 cup butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup milk
2 cups flour
3 teasoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Whites 5 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla.
Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, and put Marshmallow Cream
between the layers and on the top." (p. 427)
"Marshmallow paste
Sarah Tyson Rorer lists this recipe in 1902:
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup milk
1/4 marshmallows
2 tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Put sugar and milk in a saucepoan, heat slowly to boiling point without stirring, and boil six
minutes. Break marshmallows in pieces and melt in double boiler, add hot water and cook until
mixture is smooth, then add hot syrup gradually, stirring constantly. Beat until cool enough to
spread, then add vanilla. This may be used for both filling and frosting." (p. 435)
"Marshmallow filling.
Put a half pound of marshmallows and a quarter cupful of water in a double boiler over the fire.
Stir until melted. Take from the fire and our while hot into the well beaten whites of two eggs.
Add a teaspoonful of vanilla."
---Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book (p. 627)
Marzipan
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 206)
---Food and Drink in Britain From the Stone Age to the 19th Century, C. Anne Wilson
[Academy Chicago Press:Chicago] 1991 (p. 336-7)
[1660]
Marchpane figured prominently in early wedding confections, according to Wedding Cakes
and Cultural History, Simon R. Charsley (your librarian can help you find a copy of this
book).
Marchpane, Accomplist
Cook, Robert May
March-pane
"To make the best March-pane...lay it upon a fair Table, and strowing searft-sugar under it,
mould it like leaven, then with a rolling pin role it forth, and lay it upon wafers, washt with
Rose-water; then pinch it about the sides, and put it into what form you please, and so set it into a
hot stove, and there bake it crisply, and serve it forth."
---The English Hous-Wife, Gevase Markham [1660], Book 2, (p. 93)
"To make March-pane
Take a pound of Jordan almonds, blanch and put to them three quarters of a pound of double
refined sugar, and beat them with a few drips of orange-flower water; beat all together till tis a
very good paste, then roll it into what shape you please; dust a little fine sugar under it as you roll
it, to keep it from sticking. To ice it, searce double refined sugar as fine as flour, wet it with rose
water, and mix it well together, and with a brush or bunch of feathers spread it over your
march-pane: bake them in an oven that is not too hot; put wafer paper at the bottom, and white
paper
under that, so keep them for use."
---The Compleat Housewife or, Accompish'd Gentlewoman's Companion, E. Smith,
facsimile 1753 edition [Literary Services and Production:London] 1968 (p. 173)
---ibid (p. 208)
"To make common March-panes.
Take a sufficent Quantity of Almonds, which are to be scalded in hot Water, blanched, and
thrown into cold Water as they are done; then being wiped and drain'd, they must be beaten in a
Stone Mortar, and moistened with the White of an Egg, to prevent their turning into Oil. In the
mean while, having caused Half as much clarify'd Sugar as Paste, to be brought to its feathered
Quality, toss in your Almonds by Handfuls, or else pour the boiling Sugar upon them in another
Vessel: Let them be well intermixed, and the Paste continually stirred on all Sides. When it is done
enough, it must be laid upon Powder-sugar, and set by to cool Afterwards, several Pieces of a
convenient Thickness may be taken out, of which you are to cut your Marchpanes with certain
Moulds, gently slipping them off with the Tip of your Finger upon Sheets of Paper, in order to be
heated in the Oven only on one Side; that done, the other Side is to be iced over, and baked in like
Manner; otherwise the Paste may be rolled out, or squeezed through a Syringe, and made curbed,
or jagged, of a round, oval, or long Figure, in the Shape of a Heart, &c."
---The Lady's Companion, Sixth Edition, Volume II [London:J. Hodges] 1753 (p. 348)
"To make Machpane Cakes.
Take almonds & blanch them in warme water, then beat them very fine in a stone morter and put
in a little rose water to keepe them from oyling, then take the same weight in sugar as you doe of
almonds, & mingle it with them when they are beaten very small & short, onely reserveing some
of it to mould up the almonds with all. Then make them up in pritty thick cakes, & harden them in
a bakeing pan. The make a fine clear candy, & doe it over you marchpanes with a feather. Soe set
them in your pan againe, till the candy grow hard. Then take them out, & candy the other side.
Set them in againe, & look often to the them. Keepe a very temperate fire, both over & u[nder
them,] & set them in a stove todry."
---Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats, transcribed by
Karen Hess [Columbia University Press:New York] 1981 (p. 322)
[NOTE: this book contains more marzipan recipes and a wealth of notes regarding
marzipan/marchpane and period cooking. Your librarian will be happy to help you find a copy.]
---Food in the Ancient World From A-Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p. 6)
---Cambridge World History of Food, Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Conee Ornelas
[Cambridge University Press:Cambridge] 2000 Volume 2, (p. 1717)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
12)
---Food of China, E.N. Anderson Yale University Press:New Haven] 1988 (p. 168)
---Food in China: A Cultural and Historical Inquiry, Frederick J. Simoons [CRC Press:Boca Raton FL] 1989 (p. 269-270)
---Food in China: A Cultural and Historical Inquiry, Frederick J. Simoons [CRC Press:Boca Raton FL] 1989 (p. 270)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
12)
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 4-5)
---Grocer's Encyclopedia/Artemas Ward [1911] (p. 20)
According to this article in the New York Times, 1901:
---"Jordan Almond Trees Exported," New York Times, October 2, 1901 (p. 5)
Sugar coated nuts, known in Renaissance times as comfits have long been proferred
as gifts. Until recently, sugar coated almonds were expensive. They were reserved for the finest banquets, especially wedding feasts.
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 129)
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, translated by Anthea Bell [Barnes and Noble Books:New York] 1992 (p. 567-8)
---Candy: The Sweet History, Beth Kimmerle [Colletor's Press:Portland OR] 2003 (p. 96)
---Nectar and Ambrosia: An Encyclopedia of Food in World Mythology, Tamra Andrews
[ABC-CLIO:Santa Barbara] 2000 (p. 5-6)
Mints
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 508)
---Food in the Ancient World From A to Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p. 219)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 508)
---Sugarplums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004
(p. 69-70)
While it is true that mint is an ancient herb known to the Greeks, culinary evidence confirms the
combination of mint jelly with lamb is an English tradition. The tradition was conceived for medical/health rasons, as mint has long been appreciated for calming the
digestive system. Lamb is fatty and hard to digest. The pairing of pork and applesauce follows the same general principal.
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 508)
---Nectar and Ambrosia: An Encyclopedia of Food in World Mythology, Tamra Andrews [ABC-CLIO:Santa Barbara] 2000 (p. 151)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 441)
"Lamb, Sauce for.--Mint sauce is usually served with lamb. To make it: Strip the leaves from
some fresh young mint, wash and dry them well, and chop them as finely as possible. Put them
into a tureen, and cover them with powdered sugar in the proportion of a table-spoonful of sugar
to one and a half of mint. Let these remain for half an hour, then pour over them three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. If after a trial this sauce is found to be too sweet, a less proportion of sugar
can be used; but it has been very generally approved when prepared as above. The vinegar is
sometimes strained from the mint-leaves before being sent to table. Time, a few minutes to
prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons."
---Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery with Numerous Illustrations [Cassell, Petter, Galpin &
Co.:London] 1875? (p. 360)
Pop Rocks"Word Mark
POP ROCKS Goods and Services (CANCELLED) IC 030. G & S: NO GOODS/SERVICES STATEMENT ON TRAM Mark Drawing Code (1)
TYPED DRAWING Serial Number 81041425 Filing Date 0000 Current Filing Basis UNKNOWN Original Filing Basis UNKNOWN Registration
Number 1041425 Registration Date June 15, 1976 Owner (REGISTRANT) General Foods Corporation UNKNOWN White Plains NEW YORK Register
PRINCIPAL Live/Dead Indicator DEAD Cancellation Date November 9, 1982"
+
"Enter "Pop Rocks": General Foods Co,. tests a "crackling candy" in various fruit flavors. Ingredients are similar to conventional hard candy except that carbon
dioxide is included. Result: a sensation of candy particles bursting noisily in the mouth as the Pop Rocks dissolve."
---"Business Bulletin: Special Background Report on Trends in Industry and Finance," Wall Street Journal, February 5, 1976 (p. 1)
---"News for you: Powdered soda pop." Chicago Tribune, August 22, 1977 (p. B1)
---"Pop Rockes hot item--but not too hot, please," Adverstising Age, April 17, 1978 (p.1)
---"News for you: Too successfull for their own good," Mary Knoblauch, Chicago Tribune, April 19, 1978 (p. A2)
---"It Snaps, Crackles And-Yes-Pops: Carbonated Candy That Explodes in Your Mouth," Washington Post, April 21, 1978 (p. C3)
[NOTE: This article contains a photograph of the package.]
---"Rock It to Me: Feeding a Candy Craze," Time, May 1, 1978 (p. 44)
---"GF keeps carbonated gum test hush hush to avoid bootleggers," Advertising Age, July 31, 1978 (p. 1)
---"Father of the Candy Bomb Just a Farmer at Heart," Los Angeles Times, April 30, 1979 (p. D12)
---"A Candy Craze Keeps Popping," Newsweek, June 4, 1979 (p. 15)
---"More Gums Burst Onto Scene," Advertising Age, September 2, 1979 (p. 8)
---Pop Rocks candy returns, St. Petersburg Times, November 23, 1986
---"Pop Rocks Still Rock," William Weir, The Hartford Courant, April 18, 2006
---"THE BIZ; The Biz: Pop Rocks Candy Recharged; OMG! ODMG Gets Strategic, Brandweek, January 8, 2007
Pralines
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
766)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p.
631-2)
---Larousse Gastronomique, Completely updated and revised [Clarkson Potter:New York]
2001 (p.
934)
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat [Barnes & Noble Books:New York]
1992 (p. 569)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p.
255)
---The Picayune's Creole Cook Book, second edition, facsimile 1901 reprint [Dover:New
York] 1970
(p. 375)
[NOTE: This book has more information about Creole candy and several praline recipes. Ask
your librarian
to help you find a copy.]
1. Food in History, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, chapter 17: Confectionery and
Preserves
---background on the history of confectionery
2. Cambridge World History of Food, Kiple & Ornelas
---history of almonds, pecans, peanuts, & sugar
3. Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson
---history of sugar almonds and dragees
4. Need recipes? Check French and Cajun cookbooks.
Toffee, taffy, butterscotch,
caramel & toffee
apples
The earliest written reference to taffy in the Oxford English Dictionary dates back to
1817: "R.
Wilbraham, Cheshire Glossary, Taffy,...a treacle thickened by boiling and made into hard cakes."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani
[Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 321)
---Listening to America, Stuart Berg Flexner [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1982 (p.
138)
---Listening to America, Stuart Berg Flexner (p. 86)
Salt water taffy is popularly
attributed to Fralingers, on the Atlantic City NJ boardwalk, 1883.
Additional notes here. Our survey of historic newspaper articles reveals there were several claimants to the origination of
this seaside treat. Not surprisingly? The issue became a matter of court record.
---"Joseph Fralinger Dies," New York Times, May 14, 1927 (p. 19)
---"100 Years the Tons of Taffy Later...," Fred Ferretti, New York Times, June 12, 1985 (p. C3)
---"Topics of the Times, New York Times, October 25, 1947 (p. 18)
---"John Ross Edmiston Sr. Claims He Was Originator of 'Salt-Water Taffy...'", New York Times, Septebmer 18, 1939 (p. 24)
---"'Salt Water Taffy' Makers Win Fight Against Patent," New York Times, March 30, 1925 (p. 19)
---"Denies Sole Right to 'Salt Water Taffy,'" New York Times, April 12, 1925 (p. 13)
---"Ends Candyless Sundays: Restaurant Man Gives Free Taffy in Blue-law Town," New York Times, July 30, 1923 (p. 4)
[1919?]
"Genuine Atlantic City Salt Water taffy.
Mix four pounds of sugar and one tablespoonful of corn starch, then place in a kettle and
add:
4 pound corn syrup
1/4 pound Nucoa Butter
1 1/2 pints water
Cook to 256 degrees F., then add one tablespoonful salt, pour on slab and when cool enough, pull
on hook for a long time. Spin into strips as with stick candy, cutting into pieces about 3/4 inch
long. Wrap each piece in thin wax paper and you have the genunine salt water taffy such as
originated, and is made and sold on the boardwalk at Atlantic City.
[NOTE: Nucoa brand "butter" was really a margarine.]
4 pounds "C" sugar
2 pounds corn syrup
1/2 pound butter
1 1/2 pints water.
Cook to about 260 degrees F., the add tablespoon of salt and 2 ounces glycerine. Pour on slab
and when cool, pull well on hook adding vanilla flavor when pulling. Pull out in round sticks
about the size of stick candy, cut in small pieces with shears and wrap in wax paper."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W.O. Rigby, 19th edition [1919?] (p. 146-7)
"Salt water taffy.
You can divide taffy, tinting and flavoring each portion differently
2 c. Sugar
1 c. Light corn syrup
1 1/2 c. Water
1 1/2 tsp. Salt
2 tsp. Glycerin
2 tblsp. Butter
2 tsp. Vanilla
Combine sugar, syrup, water, salt and glycerine in a 3-qt. Heavy saucepan. Place on low heat and
stir until sugar dissolves. The cook without stirring to the hard ball stage (260 degrees F.).
Remove from heat and add butter. When butter is melted, pour into a buttered shallow pan (about
13X9"). Whe cool enough to handle, gather into a ball and pull until rather firm. Add vanilla while
pulling. Stretch out into a long rope and cut in 1 or 2" pieces. Wrap each piece in waxed paper
when hard; twist paper at both ends. Thsi will keep candy from becoming sticky. Makes about 1
1/4 pounds. NOTE: You can tint taffy while pulling it. Different flavors may be added, also in the
pulling, instead of the vanilla. Pink taffy usually is flavored with wintergreen, white with vanilla,
green with spearmint."
---Homemade Candy, Nell B. Nichols, Farm Journal field food editor [Doubleday &
Company:Garden City:New York] 1970 (p. 154)
According to the Oxford English Dictionary, toffee ("a sweet meat made from sugar or
treacle,
butter, and sometimes a little flour, boiled together; often mixed with bruised nuts such as almond
or walnut toffee") was first mentioned in print in 1825. We know that most words are typically
used long before they appear in print form.
---The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson, [Oxford University Press:Oxford]
1999 (p.
797-798)
---"ENGLISH TOFFEE Sweet, rich, and beloved by the British," British Heritage,
February-March 2002 (p. 16)
[NOTE: this article is available full-text from the EBSCO Masterfile database. You may be able to
access this from your library/home computer. Ask your librarian for details]
"A Later Developer: Toffee," Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura
Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 179-194)
In 19th century American and British cookbooks, the names toffee and taffy appear to be used
interchangeably to denote similar recipes. This confection also sometimes masked as "molasses
candy" or "pulled molasses candy." Some of these recipes instruct the cook to "pull" the candy,
others simply to cut it in small squares. Some refer specifically to "Everton Toffie," named for a
town near Liverpool, England. The oldest recipe for "taffy" we have comes from an American
cookbook published in 1847:
"Molasses Candy (Taffy)...Put a pint of common molasses in a stewpan, over a slow fire,
let it
boil, stir it to prevent its running over the top, or if necessary, take it off; when it has boiled more
than half an hour try it, by taking some in a saucer; when cold, if it is brittle and hard, it is done;
flavor with lemon, sassafras, or vanilla, and pour it quarter or half an inch deep in buttered tin
pans. Shelled peanuts, (ground nuts) or almonds may be stirred into it, enough to make it thick, or
but a few. Molasses candy may be made a light color by pulling it in your hands, having first
rubbed them over with a bit of butter, to prevent the candy sticking to them, during the
process."
---Mrs. Crowen's American Lady's Cookery Book, Mrs. T. J. Crowen [1847] (p.
341-342)
TAFFY
3 lb. sugar
1 pint water
1/2 tsp. citric acid
Juice of 3 lemons OR 4 oranges
Butter (for pans)
--- Civil War Cooking: The Housekeeper's Encyclopedia, Mrs. E. F. Haskell, 1861.
"Treacle Toffee
Put a 1/4 lb. of fresh butter into a tinned saucepan, and when partially melted add 1/2 lb. of treacle and 1/2 lb. or Demerara sugar, and mix well together. Boil for
8 to 10 minutes, then test it by dropping a little in cold water. If it immediately hardens and is brittle, pour all on to a buttered dish. Before it is hard it can be
marked into squares with the back of a knife, and it will then break evenly. If liked, almonds can be pressed in before the toffe hardens. Toffee can be pulled until it
is any desired light colour, or even white. It is then, while soft, made into rolls or sticks about half an inch thick, and cut into short pieces with scissors."
---Cookery Ilustrated and Household Management, Elizabeth Craig [Odhams Press:London] 1936 (p. 459)
The history of butterscotch is closely connected to that of toffee/taffy. It is essentially the same
recipe tempered with lemon flavoring. Exact recipes (molasses, white sugar, brown, sugar, corn
syrup) vary greatly according to time and place. Food historians have several theories regarding
the name of this candy and its connection to Scotland; none of them conclusive. Theodora
Fitzgibbon (Scottish culinary expert) includes a recipe for butterscotch in her Scottish
Cookery (p.260), without comment.
---"ENGLISH TOFFEE Sweet, rich, and beloved by the British," British Heritage,
February-March 2002 (p. 16)
[NOTE: the Doncaster's Web site references the product but does not provide history]
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 49)
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New
York] 1999 (p. 49)
---The Horizon Cookbook and Illustrated History of Eating and Drinking through the
Ages, American Heritage [Doubleday:New York] 1968 (p. 738)
[NOTE: includes recipe]
[1855]
ABOUT CARAMEL
"Everton Toffie...No. 2.--Boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter for twenty
minutes; then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched, divided, and thoroughly dried in a slow
iven, or before th fire. Let the toffie boil after they are added, till it crackles when dropped into
cold water, and snaps between the teeth without sticking."
--- Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton [London] Southover Press edition
with introduction by Elizabeth Ray [1993] (p. 469)
Buckeye
Butter Scotch & Butter Taffy
Buckeye Cookery, Esther Woods Wilcox
"Butter Scotch.
8-lbs White Sugar
1 lb Fresh Butter
Lemon Flavouring
---Skuse's Complete Confectioner [London] (p. 24)
"Butter Taffy
2 cups light brown sugar
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup molasses
7/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons
vinegar
1/4 cup butter
2 teaspoons vanilla
---Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt Farmer
"Butterscotch Squares
1 2/3 cups light brown sugar
2/3 corn syrup
1/2 cup water
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teasoon salt
Oil of lemon
---The Candy Cook Book, Alice Bradley [Little, Brown:Boston] 1929 (p. 128)
[NOTE: This book also has recipes for Butterscotch Wafers, Cream Butterscotch Balls (or
Scotch Kisses, Cream Butterscotch With Nuts (walnuts or pecans), and Chocolate Butterscotch
Creams]
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 57)
---Sugar-plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect
Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 57-60)
[NOTE: If you need more information on the history and evolution of caramel we highly
recommend this book.]
---Sweet and Sweet Shops, Laura Mason [Shire Publications:Buckinghamshire] 1999 (p.
18-9)
"Caramels. When first brought over from America, these goods were certainly a treat. The were
rather dear, but they
were good; the public appreciated them. Very soon the demand was universal, then competition
stepped in with the
usual result--the prices lowered, the quality suffered, until anything cut into the shape were called
caramels.
Consequently, the demand lessened; still they were forced on the market cheaper and cheaper,
worse and worse, until
only those who liked plenty of money bought the vile concoctions. The very name has almost
become a synonym for
rubbish. However, several makers had kept up the standard of excellence, so that only those
which are identified by a
particular brand or name find favour with the retail shopkeepers who study the interest of their
customers, but the
mischief has already been done to the great bulk of the general trade; the public has lost
confidence, and are afraid to buy
that which they woudl like, having so often got that which they did not like, bearing the same
name and having the same
appearance as their former favorites. To remedy this state of things as far a possible, we
recommend the making of an
excellent article from good and fresh ingredients, using a distinctive name or brand, and, above all,
keep the quality up to
the standard. Better please old customers with prime goods than try to deceive new ones with
cheap and common
confectionery goods."
---Skuse's Complete Confectioner, 7/6 [W.J.Bush & Co.:London] 189? (p. 60-1)
Definition of carmel and
recipes
[NOTE: these confections are classed as "caramels," not called caramels].
Chocolate
caramels, Caramel, for
coloring Soups, etc. & Caramel
custard.
To
make
caramel, Caramel
frosting & Caramel
Charlotte Russe
Definition and uses of Caramel,
distinct from Caramel
candies.
Cracker
Jacks (1893)
Karmel Korn
(1929)
---Pickled, Potted, and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Preserving
Changed the World, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 (p.
168-9)
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford]
1999 (p.
798)
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002
(p. 345)
Take small apples and stick in each one at the top, a small wooden skewer, such as
butchers use
to pin roasts. Now cook a batch of Molasses Taffy to 280 degress F. Then dip the apple in
the hot
batch so as to cover it completely. Let the surplus syrup drip off, then stand them on a slab
until
cold."
---Rigby's Reliable Candy Teacher, W.O. Rigby, 19th edition [USA] 1919? (p.
215)
[NOTE: this book contains two recipes for molasses taffy, p. 144 and 145.]
"Lollipop Apples
Select very small red apples, wash and dry them, put a stick or skewer in each, and dip them in the glace."
Glace or glace sugar is used for the dipping of nuts and fruits and for the making of various hard candies. It is an
exceedingly pure form of candy, very easily made, yet requiring careful watching, as it quickly clouds, and obviuosly, when not
clear, its beautiful effect is lost. It is from glace that the spun sugar nests used chiefly for their decorative purposes
are made. The remains of glace, after dipping nuts and candies, may be very delicately coloured, flavoured with a few drops of
cinnamon, clove, lemon, or any other desired extract and dropped or poured on to an oiled slab or platter in the form
of small candies.
1 pound sugar, 1/8 pound cream of tartar, 2/3 cupful water
Place all the ingredients in a small saucepan, stir only until the sugar has dissolved, then cook to 320 degrees. Remove
immediately from the fire and drip whole or half nuts and candy centres, one at a time, into the syrup, gently, so as not
to disturb it and make it cloudy. Lift them out immediately with the candy fork and turn on to an oiled slab or platter or
table oilcloth to set."
---Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service, Ida C. Baley Allen [Doubleday, Doran & Company:Garden City NY] 1924 (p. 790-1)
Converation Hearts, as we Americans know them today, descended from British Conversation Lozenges and Motto Rocks. These have been popular confections
from the mid-19th century forwards. In older times words were sometimes imprinted by molds or inserted (paper) into the confection.
About Conversation Hearts (c. 1902).
---Sugar Plums and Sherbet: The Preshistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 146-147)
---Sugar-Plums and Sherbet: The Prehistory of Sweets, Laura Mason [Prospect
Books:Devon] 2004 (p. 208)
---For Lovers, Chocolate, Niki Dwyer (UPI), The Buffalo News, February 11, 1998,
Lifestyles (p. 2D)
SOURCE: Cadbury
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