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General tips & basic strategies
EVOLUTION VS. INVENTION
Where to begin?
Advanced techniques
1. Examine old cookbooks.
2. Research the history of each ingredient.
PRODUCT HISTORIES
"LOST RECIPES"
RESTAURANT DISHES
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Sometimes the answer to a food history question is straightforward and easy to confirm (the
ingredients of the original Dagwood sandwich).
Other times the answer is a complicated puzzle (Club
sandwiches) with conflicting pieces. And then? There are questions for which there are no
satisfactory answers
(Who named the "monkey dish?").There are
times when the best one can do is assemble as much information as possible and make educated
guesses based on supporting historical evidence. Croissants, ice cream cones, pink
lemonade...culinary lore abounds.
In short, food history is not a "piece of cake."
(You can also e-mail us directly: foodtimeline@aol.com)
About this site, about culinary research & about copyright.
Who is Lynne Olver? A reference librarian with a
passion for food history.
Food history credentials include contributorship to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and
Drink in
America, Andrew F. Smith, editor in chief (2004) and presentations for the Montclair
Historical Society, NJ. Ms. Olver consults regularly with food editors, writers, students, and chefs
worldwide providing
background material and fact checking services. The Food Timeline was selected by
Saveur as one of the top 100 sites (2004). Please note, Ms. Olver is not a chef. Culinary
training (if you call it that!) was a 4 year stint as a short order cook in college. Ms. Olver is employed full-time as
Chief Librarian, Morris County Library (NJ), where she supervises Reference Services.
She holds a Masters in
Library Science from
S.U.N.Y. Albany and is licensed by the State of New Jersey. She was honored by The
New York Times as Librarian of the Year, Morris County (2002) for helping people find jobs.
The Food Timeline is
recognized by the American Library Association as one of the Great Web Sites for
Kids.
Member: International Association of Culinary
Professionals (IACP) and American Library Association (ALA). Please contact Ms. Olver by e-mail.
Why is our site free?
What is the history of your favorite food? That depends upon the food and how deep you want to
dig. Take tiramasu. This dish was "created" in the late 20th century. You could find a few
magazines articles confirming period popularity/origination and stop there. Or? You could go the
next level and research the recipe based on composition. You would soon discover this dish was
based on Victorian-era moulded creams which were based on Colonial-era tipsy cakes which were
inspired by Renaissance-era trifles.
Very few (if any) foods are invented. Most are contemporary twists on traditional themes. Louis
Diat's famous Vichysoisse was a childhood favorite. Today's grilled cheese sandwich is connected
to ancient cooks who melted cheese on bread. 1950s meatloaf is connected to ground cooked
meat products promoted at the turn of the 20th century, which are, in turn related to ancient
Roman minces. Need more? Corn dogs and weiner schnitzel. French fries and Medieval fritters.
New York gyros and Middle Eastern doner kebabs. Hershey's Kisses and ancient Incan cocoa.
Check food history encyclopedias and dictionaries. Standard sources noted here. Cuisine/period
cookbooks and history sources may also be helpful.
One of the most challenging aspects of recipe research is identifying common themes and making
connections. A survey of cookbooks through time often reveals similar recipes with different
names. A careful inspection of ingredients and cooking instruction confirms or refutes culinary
lineage. To complicate matters, variant spellings often appear in older texts. Of course, the first
"real" appearance of any recipe often predates the first occurance of recorded in print by several
years.
Work your way back from the current recipe. Look for similarities in ingredient and method.
BEWARE. Recipes change names.
Old
world or new? Rare commodity or common ingredient? Apple pie is an American icon, but apples
aren't native to our country. Tomato sauce is the cornerstone of many popular Italian dishes, but
these fruits (as they are botanically classed) weren't known to Europe until the 16th century. West
African Lemony Chicken Okra Soup. Some foods (rice, beans, pork, bread, soup) are nearly
ubiquitious. These recipes evolved according to ingredient availability, technological
advancement, and local taste.
If the product is still being made, start with the U.S. Patent &
Trademark Office database. This will give date of first introduction, original manufacturer
and
(usually) current trademark holder. Corporate "biographies," article databases, product histories,
and company Web sites often provide details on the product's introduction, market strategy,
consumer trends, variations (the iterations of Oreos), packaging, and pricing. Anniversary articles
(100th anniversary of Jell-0 celebrated in 1997) often provide excellent overviews.
Family favorites can sometimes be recovered. It is very helpful if you have some idea of recipe
origination: cookbook, magazine article, newspaper clipping, radio/television show, "back of the
box," contest winner? Where did the cook usually get her recipes? Where and when (1930s
Quebec) is important for tracking local fare. The cook's ethnic heritage (Polish Jew, French
Canadian, West African) is crucial for locating "grandmother's traditional" recipes. Sources: old
cookbooks, recipe exchanges, period media.
Signature recipes from famous restaurants fall into three categories:
Researching the history of a specific cuisine, recipe, food, or product often requires using a
variety of sources to develop a complete and accurate picture. Depending upon the question, the
answer may require:
Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America/Smith, Oxford Companion to
Food/Davidson, An A to Z of Food and Drink/Ayto,
Cambridge World History of Food/Kiple & Ornelas, Food in the Ancient World from
A to Z/Dalby, History of Food/Toussaint-Samat, The Encyclopedia of American
Food and Drink/Mariani, American
Century Cookbook/Anderson.
Oxford English Dictionary, Dictionary of
Americanisms/Mitford, Dictionary of American Regional English/Cassidy, I Hear
America
Talking/Flexner
The Story of Corn/Fussell, The Tomato in America/Smith, The True History of
Chocolate/Coe, A Social History of Tea/Pettigrew, Uncommon Grounds: The
History of Coffee and How it Transformed our World, Pendergrast. Identify titles with the
Library of Congress catalog. Your librarian can help you
obtain the books.
America's First Cuisines/Coe, Food and Feast in Tudor England/Sim, Food in
Early Modern Europe/Albala, A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food/K.T. Achaya,
Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age fo the 19th Century/Wilson, Classic
Russian Cooking/Toomre, Jewish Cooking in America/Nathan
How Products are Made, Encyclopedia of Consumer Brands,
magazine/newspaper/trade journal databases are great places to find "lost recipes." Ask your
librarian about access. New York Times Historic, EBSCO's Masterfile,
ProQuest's Research II, National Newspapers, and New York Times
Historic, LexisNexis Requester. With the exception of New York Times Historic
and similar scanned full-text databases, adertisements are not indexed.
Origin of Cultivated Plants/De Candolle
Dissertation Abstracts, Historical
Abstracts, America: History & Life, Sociological Abstracts, Agricola
Libraries, museums, historical societies, living history museums & industry/company archives.
Outstanding culinary history library collections (U.S.): Harvard, University of Pennsylvania,
Cornell University, Johns Hopkins University, University of Iowa, Michgan State University, New
York Academy of Medicine, New York Public Library, Los Angeles Public Library.
Culinary researchers, foodways curators, chefs, professors, government
officials, corporate information officers, book authors, historical reenactors (Society for Creative
Anachronism=Medieval food specialists).
These are uploaded by food manufacturers, research institutions, food media sites, and private
individuals.
Welcome to the Food
Timeline's answer service
SERVICE NOTES
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About these notes: Food history can be a complicated topic. These notes are not meant
to be a
comprehensive treatment of the subject, but a summary of salient points supported with culinary
evidence. If you
need more information we suggest you start by asking your librarian to help you find the books
and articles cited in these notes. If you need assistance locating additional information on a
particular food or recipe ask!
The Food Timeline was conceived and created by a public librarian. Our profession is devoted to providing fair and equitable access to
information irregardless of ability to pay.