Food Timeline>cookies, crackers & biscuits

animal crackers
ammonia cookies
apees (AP's)
biscotti, mandelbrot, rusk & zweiback
biscuits (cathead, beaten, ship's, refrigerator)
chocolate chip cookies
Chocolate Snaps
Christmas cookies
Cookie tables (Pittsburgh) Fig Newtons
gingerbread men
Girl Scout cookies
Joe Froggers
jumbles
langue de chat
lemon bars
Mallomars
Marshmallow sandwiches
Mexican wedding cookies
no-bakes
oatmeal cookies
Oreos
peanut butter cookies
petit fours & mignardise
pizzelle
Ritz crackers
rugelach
Russian tea cakes
Scooter pies
Scottish shortbread
S'mores
snickerdoodles
sugar cookies
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The book Cookies and Crackers, Time/Life Books, 1982 (page 5) provides a history of cookies that is perfect for elementary gourmets:

"The art of making cookies and crackers is that of turning simple ingredients into wonderful things....Like cakes and pastries, cookies and crackers are the descendants of the earliest food cooked by man-- -grain-water-paste baked on hot stones by Neolithic farmers 10,000 years ago. The development of cookies and crackers from these primitive beginnings is a history of refinements inspired by two different impulses--one plan and practical, the other luxurious and pleasure-loving. Savory crackers represent the practical and may well have been the first convenience foods: A flour paste, cooked once, then cooked again to dry it thoroughly, becomes a hard, portable victual with an extraordinarily long storage life--perfect for traveling....For centuries, no ship left port without enough bone-hard, twice-cooked ship's biscuit--the word biscuit comes from the Old French biscoit, meaning twice cooked---to last for months, or even years. While sailors and other travelers chewed their way through unyielding biscuits, cooks of the ancient civilizations of the Middle East explored the culinary possibilities of sweetness and richness. These cooks lightened and enriched the paste mixtures with eggs, butter and cream and sweetened them with fruit, honey and finally--when the food became widely available in the late Middle Ages--with sugar... Luxurious cakes and pastries in large and small versions were well known in the Persian empire of the Seventh Century A.D. With the Muslim invasion of Spain, then the Crusades and the developing spice trade, the cooking techniques and ingredients of Arabia spread into Northern Europe. There the word cookies, distinguishing small confections, appeared: The word comes from the Dutch Koeptje [koekje], meaning small cake. By the end of the 14th Century, one could buy little filled wafers on the streets of Paris...Renaissance cookbooks were rich in cookie recipes, and by the 17th Century, cookies were common-place."

"The term [cookie] first appeared in print as long ago as 1703."
---The Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] (page 212).

"Early English and Dutch immigrants first introduced the cookie to America in the 1600s. While the English primarily referred to cookies as small cakes, seed biscuits, or tea cakes, or by specific names, such as jumbal or macaroon, the Dutch called the koekjes, a diminutive of koek (cake)...Etymologists note that by the early 1700s, koekje had been Anglicized into "cookie" or "cookey," and the word clearly had become part of the American vernacular. Following the American Revolution, people from other parts of the country became familiar with the cookie when visiting New York City, the nation's first capitol, a factor that resulted in widespread use of the term...During the seventeeth, eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries most cookies were made in home kitchens. They were baked as special treats because the cost of sweeteners and the amount of time and labor required for preparation. The most popular of these early cookies still retain their prize status. Recipes for jumbles, a spiced butter cookie, and for macaroons, based on beaten egg whites and almonds, were common in the earliest American cookbooks...Because it was relatively inexpensive and easy to make, gingergbread was one of the most popular early cookies...As kitchen technology improved in the early 1900s, most notably in the ability to regulate oven temperature, America's repertoire of cookie recipes grew."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 1 (p. 317-8)

If you are doing a "cookies around the world" project ask your librarian to help you find The International Cookie Jar Cookbook, Anita Borghese.

Ammonia cookies

According to the food history reference books, "Ammonia" cookies are not one specific cookie recipe but a whole host of edible treats employing ammonium bicarbonate, an old-fashioned (probably now hard to get?) leavening agent. Ammonium carbonate is a byproduct of hartshorn, a substance extracted from deer antlers [harts horn]. Hartshorn is most commonly referenced in old cookbooks in jelly recipes. It was also known a source for ammonia, which could be used as a leavener.

"Hartshorn...1. The horn or antler of a hart [male deer, esp. Red deer] the substance obtained by rasping, slicing or calcining the horns of harts, formerly the chief sources of ammonia. 2. Spirit of hartshorn, also simply hartshoren; the aqueous solution of ammonia (whether obtained from harts' horns or otherwise). Salt of hartshorn, carbonate of ammonia; smelling salt."
---Oxford English Dictionary

Historic English definitions & sources:
HARTS-HORN, 205. Shavings of the antlers of a stag or hart were the source of a jelly. Nott (1726) is among the authors who explain how to make it. (Robert May, 1660/1685)
HARTS-HORN: deerhorn, used as a source of gelatine. (Sir Kenelm Digby, 1669)
HARTSHORN: the shavings of a stag’s antlers were used to set a jelly. In Receipt 194 it is combined with isinglass (see below), a material that eventually superseded hartshorn in most cookery operations. (John Evelyn, Cook, C17)
HARTSHORN: See H 22. The receipt is self-explanatory. (John Nott, 1726)
HARTSHORN: a hart’s horn or antler, used as a source of gelatin. Pierre Pomet says that many remedies were prepared from hartshorn and mentions that hartshorn jelly was good against fainting and swooning fits, heartburn, convulsions, falling sickness, hysterical fits, and worms. (See volume II, p. 257.) (Richard Bradley, 1736)
HARTSHORN, HARTSHORN-JELLY. Hartshorn was formerly the main source of ammonia, and its principal use was in the production of smelling salts. But hartshorn shavings were used, in a different operation, to produce a special and edible jelly. In her recipe for a ‘Hedge-Hog’, 85, Hannah Glasse assumes that the reader will know how to make this. A full recipe is given by Nott (1726), and earlier authors.(Glasse, 1747)
HARTSHORN is deerhorn, used as a source of gelatine. (William Ellis, 1750)
---Source:
Prospect Books

"Hartshorn was formerly the main source of ammonia, and its principal use was in the production of smelling salts. But hartshorn shavings were used to produce a special, edible jelly used in English cookery in the 17th and 18th centuries."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] (p. 372)

"Ammonium bicarbonate...This leavener is the precursor of today's baking powder and baking soda. It's still called for in some European baking recipes, mainly for cookies. It can be purchased in drugstores but must be ground to a powder before using. Also known as hartshorn, carbonate of ammonia and powdered baking ammonia."
---Food Lover's Companion, Sharon Tyler Herbst, 3rd edition [Barrons:New York] 2001 (p. 14)

"Ammonia cookies...Any variety of cookies made with a leavening agent called ammonium carbonate, or baking ammonia. They are most commonly found in Scandinavian-American communities In their book Farm Recipes and Food Secrets from the Norske Nook (1993), Helen Myhre and Mona Vold wrote, "Talk about Old Faithful, this was one of those basic stanbys every farm lady made."
---Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 6)

"Ammonia, is a gas and its ordinary form of Spirits of Ammonia, or Hartshorn, is water saturated with the gas. Ammonia is sometimes used in Baking Powders, but being extremely volatile must soon lose its strength."
---Grocers' Hand-Book and Directory for 1886, compiled by Artemas Ward, published by The Philadelphia Grocer Publishing Co. (p. 13)

Recipes: Historic American (search ingredient ammonia) & Contemporary (search ammonia).

Animal crackers

Food historians generally agree the art of crafting small baked goods into fancy shapes began as a Christmas tradition in Medieval Germany. Lebkuchen (gingerbread) was a highly sophisticated art. The legal right to make these products was carefully protected by Guilds. They were sometimes used as Christmas decorations.

By the middle of the 19th century the industrial revolution made it possible for biscuits, cookies and crackers to be manufactured in factories. Crisp biscuits (what we Americans now call cookies) baked in fancy shapes were very popular in Victorian England. Some of these biscuits were shaped like animals. "Zoologicals" (animal crackers) were sold at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia [1876]. They were made by Philadelphia baker Walter G. Wilson. According to a recent Washington Post article, in 1889 when P.T. Barnum's circus travelled to England, animal cookies proliferated. Food companies were most likely capitalizing on Barnum's popular entertainment. Animal Crackers manufactured at that time were probably designed as a marketing promotions.

The earliest mention of animal crackers we have in print is this recipe from 1883:

Animals or Menagerie
1 bbl flour, 40 lbs sugar, 16 lard, 12 oz soda, 8 ozs ammonia, 6 3/4 gals milk."
---Secrets of the Bakers and Confectioners' Trade, J. D. Hounihan [self-published:Staunton VA] April 1, 1883 (p. 96)
[NOTE: this is professional cooking text. It does not offer any instructions regarding the shaping of these cookies. The author offers this interesting preface note on p. 89: "The following recipes are from threee of the best workmen in the business. One of them is at New York, another at Philadelphia and the third at Cambridge, Mass. They are all employed in the best bakeries in their respective localities, and I have their sworn affidavit that they are the recipes they are now working with, and the best known to them...I am not at liberty to give the names of the parties I have the recipes from, for reasons best known to myself and the parties"]

National Biscuit Company's (now Nabisco) classic Animal Crackers were introduced to the American public in 1902. According to Nabisco sources, the first Animal Crackers were marketed as a seasonal item. The brighly-colored box (not the cookies) was promoted as a Christmas tree ornament, thus explaining the string attached to the top.

Although Animal biscuits/crackers are a very simple cookie we find no evidence they were created/promoted as health foods. 19th century cookie-type health products often contained arrowroot and Graham's flour (whole wheat). They were not generally marketed in fancy shapes.

This is what the food historians have to say on the subject:

About lebkuchen & gingerbread

"During the 19th century supplies of cheap sugar and flour, plus chemical raising agents such as bicarbonate of soda, led to the development of many sweet biscuit recipes. In Britain several entrepreneurs laid the foundations of the modern biscuit industry. The firms of Carrs, Huntley & Palmer, and Crawfords were all established by 1850. Since the mid 19th century the range of commercially baked biscuits based on creamed and pastry type mixtures has expanded to meet the demand..."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 76)

"Animal Crackers are actually a cookie, first produced as Christmas tree ornaments in 1902 by the National Biscuit Company (now Nabisco). They are formed in the shapes of various circus animals and packed in a box decorated like a circus train. Nabisco currently produces about 7 million Animal Cracker cookies per day."
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 104)

"Animal crackers were created and achieved fame many years before the advent ot NBC (National Biscuit Company). In the beginning they were just called "Animals," They were imported from England when "fancy" baked goods first began to be in demand here. In the latter part of the nineteenth century they were manufactured domestically by Hetfield & Ducker in Brooklyn as well as Vandeveer & Holmes Biscuit Company in New York. Both firms eventually became part of the New York Biscuit Company and "Animals" were one of their staples. When "Animals" were adopted by NBC, their name was changed to "Barnum's Animal Crackers," named after P.T. Barnum, showman and circus owner who was so famous during this era. Barnum's Animal Crackers provided the nation with a new type of animal cracker, produced in a small square box resembling a circus cage with a tape at the top for easy carrying. Barnum's Animals appeared during Christmas season just three years after the Uneeda Biscuit. What was originally a seasonal novelty proved so popular that it became a steady seller. Soon Animal (the 's' was dropped) Crackers became part of the American scene and of almost every American household."
---Out of the Cracker Barrel:From Animal Crackers to ZuZus, William Cahn [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1969 (p. 106-7)

"P.T. Barnum, the greatest self-promoter in history, had absolutely nothing to do with the box that bears his name. And never got a cent for it. That's according to our man Fisher of the Barnum Museum. Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus still doesn't get a cut, or a licensing fee. This is what happened: In 1889, Barnum decided to do something truly nutty, a tour of England with his circus. So after his buddy Bailey figured out how, exactly, you get a circus that normally takes up 10 rail cars onto a boat and across an ocean, Barnum's animals made their European debut. The English, meanwhile, had already invented something called animal biscuits. Sensing a marketing moment, several companies started manufacturing animal biscuits with circus packaging and called them Barnum's. Soon the product migrated across the ocean, where Nabisco's forerunner, the National Biscuit Co., put them on U.S. store shelves in 1902. Originally called "Barnum's Animals,'' they became Barnum's "Animal Crackers'' in 1948." ---"Circus food," Jennifer Frey, Washington Post, March 20, 2002

How much did these cost?
[1905] 4 cents (no size)
[1947] 15 cents (2 packages, no size)
[1954] 29 cents (3 packages, no size)
[1963] 10 cents (2 oz pkg)
[1967] 10 cents (2 oz pkg)
[1981] 33 cents (2 oz pkg)
[1983] 45 cents (2 oz pkg)

Who designed this special package?
"Sydney S. Stern, designer of the original Ritz Crackers, Shredded Wheat and Animal Crackers boxes...was trained as an artist, joined the National Biscuit Company in 1923 and spent much of his life desining its cartons and wrappers. His design for Nabisco's Animal Crackers including caged lions, tigers and bears, replaced the original 1902 packaging and has changed only slightly over the years...Mr. Stern, who began painting in water colors as a child, studied at the Art Students League, Columbia University and the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. He won recognition for his work as a painter, a photographer and a set designer."
---"S.S. Stern, 99; Designed Ritz Crackers Box," [obituary], New York Times, June 15, 1989 (p. D24)br> [NOTE: We do not know who designed the original 1902 box. Yet.]


Apees

There are several theories regarding the origin of the name "A.P." for a particular cookie popular in the Philadelphia/Pennsylvania Dutch country. These food historians sums them up nicely:

"Apee. Also "apea" and, in the plural "eepies." A spiced butter cookie or form of gingerbread. Legend has it that the word derives from the name of Ann Page, a Philadelphia cook who carved her initials into the tops of the confection. This was first noted in print in J.F. Watson's Annals of Philadelphia (1830) to the effect that Ann Page, then still alive, "first made [the cookies] many years ago, under the common name of cakes.'"
---Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 6-7)

"Apeas are a cookie once popular in Philadelphia. The origin of the name is a bit confusing. Essentially, they were a form of Anis Platchen (anise cookies) and stamped A.P. to distinguish them from cookies with carraway, which were known as "seed cakes." A great many bakers hawked Apeas to children on the streets. One of those bakers in Philadelphia was Ann Page. The A.P. became associated with her name, if only because Anis Platchen were extremely popular. In any event, A.P. cookies are of German origin. Philadelphians called them Apeas, hence the peculiar name, but to call them anything else--such as Chocolate Apeas, only further muddles the issue."
---The Christmas Cook: Three Centuries of American Yuletide Sweets, William Woys Weaver [Harper Perennial:New York] 1990 (p. 143)
[NOTE: this book includes a recipe from Maria Parloa's Choice Recipes, 1904 which does not list anise as one of the ingredients.]

A survey of historic American recipes

[1828]
"Apees.

A pound of flour, sifted.
Half a pound of butter.
A glass of wine, and a tablespoonful of rose-water, mixed.
Half a pound of powdered white sugar.
A nutmeg, grated.
A tea-spoonful of beaten cinnamon and mace.
Three table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds.
Sift the flour into a broad pan, and cut up the butter in it. Add the carraways, sugar, and spice, and pour in the liquor by degrees, mixing it well with a knife. If the liquor is not sufficient to wet it thoroughly, add enough of cold water to make it a stiff dough. Spread some flour on your paste-board, take out the dough, and knead it very well with your hands. Put it into small pieces, and knead each separately, then put them all together, and knead the whole in one lump. Roll it out in a sheet about a quarter if an inch thick. Cut it out in round cakes, with the edge of a tumbler, or a tin of that size. Butter an iron pan, and lay the cakes in it, not too close together. Bake them a few minutes in a moderate oven, till they are very slightly coloured, but not brown. If too much baked, they will entirely lose their flavor. Do not roll them out too thin."
---Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats, by a Lady of Philadelphia [Eliza Leslie], facsimile reprint of 1828 edition published by Munroe and Francis: Boston [Applewood Books:Chester Ct] (p. 56-7)

[1849]
"Apees.
--Rub a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and mix in a pound of powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and four large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Add a wine glass of rose water, and mix the whole with sufficient cold water to make it a stiff dough. Roll it out into a large sheet about a third of an inch in thickness, and cut it into round cakes with a tin cutter or with the edge of a tumbler. Lay them in buttered pans, and bake them in a quick oven, (rather hotter at the bottom than at the top,) till they are of a very pale brown."
---Directions fo Cookery in its Various Branches, Miss Leslie [Carey & Hart:Philadelphia] 1849 (p. 354)

[1871]
"Apees (A.P.'s).

One pound and a half of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one gill of milk; rub the butter, sugar and flour together; add the milk; stir the mixture with a knife or spoon into the dough; turn it out, and work it until it becomes perfectly smooth; roll it into thin sheets, cut with a small cutter, place on tins, and bake them in a cool oven. It will take a few minutes to knead all the ingredents into a dough, but, as the quantity of milk is quite sufficient, it would spoil them to add more."
---Mrs. Porter's New Southern Cookery Book, Mrs. M.E. Porter, facsimile reprint of 1871 edition with introduction and suggested recipes by Louis Szathmary [Promontory Press:New York] 1974 (p. 267)

[1886]
"Apees (Ice Cream and Cakes)

1 pound of butter
1 1/2 pounds of flour
1 pound of sugar
1 gill of milk
Cream the butter and sugar; sift in the flour, then the milk, and stir it to a dough; turn it out on the moulding-board, and work to a fine dough again. Roll into sheets, as thick as a dollar piece, cut into small cakes, lay them on tins, and bake in a cool oven."
---Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Mrs. S.T. Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 496-7)

[1905]
"A-P's.

Cream half a pound of butter and the same of sugar, add a wine-glass and a half of cold water, ten drops of essence of lemon, a few caraway seeds, and one pound of flour; foll out as thin as paper, and bake on buttered tins."
---The Economical Cook Book, Mrs. Sara T. Paul [John C. Winston:Chicago] 1905 (p. 247)


Fig Newtons

Fig Newtons were first produced in 1891 by the National Biscuit Company, now known as Nabisco. They have a long and interesting history.

There seems to be some confusion as to which the year Fig Newtons were created. The company that manufactures these cookies (Nabisco) and the town of Newton state the year is 1891. Most food history sources say 1892.

The town of Newton celebrated the 100th anniversary of Fig Newtons April 10th, 1991: "The 100th anniversary of a cookie may not be considered a milestone for the history books, but residents of Newton believe the Fig Newton's first century is something to celebrate. Newton is an all-American city, and the Fig Newton is an all-American cookie," said Linda Plaut, the city's director of cultural affairs. "We're all proud of that." ...The Newton, as it was originally called, was created in 1891 at the Kennedy Biscuit Works in Cambridgeport, now known as Cambridge, said Mark Gutsche, a Nabisco spokesman."
---Associated Press Newswire, April 11, 1991, Thursday, AM cycle

This is what the food history books say:

"Fig Newtons were first produced in 1891, when baker James Henry Mitchell invented a machine that would allow a cake-like cookie, filled with fig jam, to be made. The machine was actually a funnel within a funnel, so handy and effective that Kennedy Biscuit Works snatched it up and started to produce the famous cookie, which became an immediate success. The name of the cookie originally was "Newtons," taken from the town of Newton, a suburb of Boston...The Kennedy Biscuit Works later became a part of the National Biscuit Company [now Nabisco]....Neither the taste, shape, or size of Fig Newtons has been changed in over one hundred years."
---The Encyclopedia of Consumer Brands, edited by Janice Jorgensen, [St. James Press:Detroit] 1994, Volume 1 (pps.183-185)--includes a list of articles

"Fig...A sweet multiseeded fruit of the fig tree or shrub, usually eaten dried. It originated in northern Asia Minor. The word is from the Latin 'ficus.' Figs were introduced into America on the island of Hispanola in 1520 by the Spaniards...Most of the fig crop goes into making a sweet filling for Fig Newtons...The cookie was first produced after Philadelphian James Henry Mitchell developed a machine in 1892 to combine a hollow cookie crust with a jam filling. This machine was brought to the Kennedy Biscuit works, which tried it out in Cambridgeport, Massachusetts, and the resulting cookie was christened "Newton's cakes," after the nearby Boston suburb of Newton..."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 126-7)

"In 1892 Mitchell applied for a patent for his new machine, which was granted. Although he had no name for his 'pie,' he thought the idea might be of value in commercial baking. So in 1892 he persuaded officials of the Kennedy Biscuit Works, which had recently become affiliated with the New York Biscuit Company, to try out his new machine, which he shipped to Cambridgeport. Mitchell personally installed the machine and supervised its functioning...The professional bakers tasted the final result, found it good and went away impressed....But promotion could not start until a name was selected...The exciting new product of the Mitchell machine needed some such name. Later an assistant to James Hazen, manager of the Cambridgeport bakery, recalled, "The name was taken from the name of the town Newton-a suburb of Boston." When the name was selected for this new product, it reflected a practice--by Mr. Hazen, who was manager of this plant--of using the names of towns and cities in the vicinity of Boston."
---Out of the Cracker Barrel, William Cahn [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1969 (p.102)

"In 1892 the Kennedy Biscuit Works...purchased a machine designed to extrude a thick filling material and enclose it in cookie dough, and decided to produce a cookie filled with fig jam."
---Yankee Magazine, August 1995 (p. 19)

It seems that the cookie itself was first created in 1891, but not marketed under the name Fig Newton until 1892.

U.S.Patent & Trademark Registration:
Word Mark FIG NEWTONS Goods and Services IC 030. US 046. G & S: BAKERY PRODUCTS-NAMELY, BISCUITS. FIRST USE: 18910000. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 18910000 Mark Drawing Code (5) WORDS, LETTERS, AND/OR NUMBERS IN STYLIZED FORM Serial Number 71551025 Filing Date March 2, 1948 Registration Number 0588911 Registration Date April 27, 1954 Owner (REGISTRANT) NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY CORPORATION NEW JERSEY 449 WEST 14TH STREET NEW YORK NEW YORK (LAST LISTED OWNER) NABISCO, INC. CORPORATION BY CHANGE OF NAME FROM NEW JERSEY 7 CAMPUS DRIVE PARSIPPANY NEW JERSEY 070540311

Need information on market strategy? Ask your librarian how to access article databases (EBSCO's Business Source, Dialog's Business & Industry, Proquest's Newspapers Nine & New York Times Historic, General Business File). These will provide information on market campaigns, consumer trends, market share, sales, spin-offs (different flavor fillings & cookie sizes).


Biscotti

Biscotti date to Ancient times. The term literally means "twice baked." These hard biscuits fueled armies and fed travelers. Flavor variations and culinary techniques evolved according to time and place. English rusk, German zweiback, Jewish mandelbrot, British ship's biscuit, and American hardtack are similar in purpose and method. About biscuits.

ABOUT BISCOTTI

"Biscuit. A small, dry, flat cake, traditionally with good keeping qualities, eaten as a snack or accompaniment to a drink, and sweet or savory. Sweet biscuits are eaten as an accompaniment to coffee, tea or milk--and mid-morning wine in Italy--and partner desserts of ice cream. They are used to make desserts--charlottes in particular--and macaroon crumbs are often added to custards or creams...In France biscuits are simply regarded as one aspect of petits fours, with their own wide repertoire...Their English and French name comes from the Latin bis meaning twice and coctus meaning cooked, for biscuits should be in theory be cooked twice , which gives them a long storage life...This very hard, barely risen biscuit was for centuries the staple food of soldiers and sailors. Roman legions were familiar with it and Pliny claimed that "Parthian bread" would keep for centuries...Soldiers biscuits or army biscuits were known under Louis XIV as "stone bread." In 1894, army biscuits were replaced by war bread made of starch, sugar, water, nitrogenous matter, ash, and cellulose, but the name "army biscuit" stuck...Biscuits were also a staple item in explorers' provisions. Traveller's biscuits, in the 19th century, were hard pastries or cakes wrapped in tin foil which kept well."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Completely Revised and Updated [Clarkson Potter:New York] 2001 (page 113)

"Biscotto. "Twice baked." Dry cookie. Often containing nuts, biscotti are usually slices from a twice-baked flattened cookie loaf. In Tuscany, biscotti or cantucci are almond cookies. In Sicily, biscotti a rombo are diamond-shaped cookies and b. Regina (queen's biscuits) are sesame seed biscuits. B. Tipo pavesini are almond biscuits of Pavia. B. De la bricia are flavoured with fennel seeds, a specialty of La Spezia. B. Aviglianese (Avigliano stype) are made with unleavened bread."
---The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink, John Mariani [Broadway Books:New York] 1998 (p. 36)

"Biscuit, a cereal product that has been baked twice. The result is relatively light (because little water remains), easy to store and transport (therefore a useful food for travellers and soldiers), sometimes hard to eat without adding water or olive oil."
---Food in the Ancient World From A to Z, Andrew Dalby [Routledge:London] 2003 (p. 53)

Recipe variations
Almonds, hazelnuts, anise, and sesame seeds were well known to ancient cooks. Chocolate was introduced to the "Old World" in the 16th century. It took approximately hundred years before this ingredient was incorporated into European desserts. It wasn't until the 19th century this ingredient found its way into baked goods. Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History (Alberto Capatti & Massimo Montanari) references both biscotti and hazelnuts, although not together in one recipe, as foods relished by the wealthy during the 16th century (p. 128).

Related food? Langue de chat

ABOUT MANDEL (ALMOND) BRODT (BREAD):
The answer to questions regarding the origin of this recipe depends upon whether you are seeking a culinary history or linguistic study of mandelbrodt. Historians confirm that almonds were known to ancient middle eastern cooks, and were incorprated into many recipes. Biscuits/biscotti, twice-baked hard breads, were popular in Ancient Rome and generally spread with the Romans to other parts of the continent. The term mandelbrot is of Germanic heritage and this particular food is traditionally associated with Eastern European Jews. Perhaps this suggests (although the recipe may be ancient) the genesis of the food with this name may be linguistically placed in Medieval Eastern Europe.

"Mandelbrot, kamishbrot, and biscotti: three twice-baked cookies. One is Italian. The others are Eastern European Jewish. Is there a connection? Perhaps. "We've thought about the connection," said Peter Pastan, chef-owner of Obelisk, a tiny pix fixe Italian restaurant in Washington D.C. "Mandelbrot is all over Eastern Europe and in Italy everybody has a different recipe for biscotti--some with fennel, some are crunchy; the ones around Siena are ugly but good." Mr. Pastan, who comes form an American-Jewish family, studied cooking in Italy before opening his mostly Italian restaurant. With a large Jewish population in Piedmont, Italy may have been the place where Jews first tasted biscotti and later brought them to Eastern Europe where they called the mandelbrot, which means literally almond bread. In the Ukraine, a similar cookies not necessarily with almonds by made at home, thuskamish, was served. In Italy they are often eaten as a dessert dipped into wine or grappa. In Eastern Europe Jews dipped them into a glass of tea, and because they include no butter and are easily kept they became a good Sabbath dessert."
---Jewish Cooking in America, Joan Nathan [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1998 (p. 354)

English Rusk
Ancient Roman soldiers carried a hard bread known as biscoctus. This literally translates as bis/twice coctus/cooked). Rusks are a similar product. Foods of this type existed in ancient Rome, the name did not. Food historians tell us recipes for foods named rusk began showing up during the reign of Elizabeth I. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the first printed record of this word dates to 1595.

"Rusks are composed of bread dough incorporating sugar, eggs, and butter. It is shaped into a loaf or cylinder, baked, cooled, and sliced and then dried in low heat until hard. They have a low water content and keep well. Sharing a common origin with the modern biscuit, medieval rusks were known as panis biscoctus (meaning twice-cooked bread') and were used as a for of preserved bread to provision armies and ships at sea...In many countries there are products which resemble rusks in that they are essentially oven-dried bread, whether plain (e.g. bruchetta) or of a sweet kind; but they may incorporate other ingredients such as spices or nuts, and ar given individual names according to the recipe."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 676)

"Rusks are a legacy of Elizabethan naval provisions. They were originally smallish lumps of bread rebaked so as to be indestructible enough to last out a long voyage. The earliest known reference to them comes in an account of Drake's voyages written in 1595: The provision...was seven or eight cakes of biscuit or rusk for a man.' The modern, more refined notion of a rusk as a slice of bread crisped by rebaking emerged in the mid-eighteenth century, and already by the end of the century rusks were being recommended as food for very young children (a niche they largely occupy today). The word is an adaptation of Spanish or Portuguese rosca, which originally meant literally twist, coil, and hense twisted piece of bread'." ---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 289)

About Rusk in America
"This was a particularly popular form of small bread or roll among the Quakers and was usually served at breakfast or at afternoon tea. In flavor, traditional Quaker rusks shoudl be fainly sweet; in color, they should be deep yellow (from the eggs) with dark brown tops. In the country, there were usually eaten fresh, although technically a true rusk should be dry and brittle because it is dried out in a slack oven. The dry rusks were broken up in breakfast coffee or te. At one time, rusks were a fairly widespread feature of urban Anglo-American cookery, at least on the East Coast. They were introduced from England, where they were popularly served as shipboard fare, as dried rusks soulc be laid down in tins or stored for long periods of time. The name, however, is of foreign origin and may be derived from the Spanish or Portuguese rosca, a twist or roll of bread. Such small breads often served as part of the traveling fare for Spanish or Portuguese sailors."
---A Quaker Woman's Cookbook: The Domestic Cookery of Elizabeth Ellicott Lea, facsimile 1851 edition introduced and historially noted by William Woys Weaver [Stackpole Books:Mechanicsburg PA] revised edition, 2004 (p. 341)

Mrs. Lea's Rusk recipe, circa 1851

"Rusk
Take a quart of milk, a tea-cup of cream, half a pound of lard, quarter of a pound of butter, a spoonful of salt, and boil them together; beat well two eggs with a pound of sugar, and pour the boiling milk on them gradually, stirring all the time; when nearly cold, add a tea-cup of yeast, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter; when quite light, knead it up as bread, and let it lighten again before moulding out; when they are moulded out, wet them over with sugar and cream, and let them rise a few minutes and bake them; grade a little sugar over when they come out of the oven."

"Rusk for Drying
Boil a quart of milk, and put in it half a pound of butter, and a little salt; when nearly cold, stir in a teacup of yeast, a pound of sugar, and flour to amke a batter; when it is light, knead it up with flour, and let it rise again; grease your pans, and make it out in cakes, about the size of a tea-cup, and an inch thick; put two layers in each pan, and bake them three-quarters of an hour; wehn take them out, break them apart, and put the top ones in other pans, and let them dry slowly in the oven for an hour or more. This rusk will keep for months, and is very useful in sickness, to make panada; it is also good for delicate persons that rich cake disagrees with, or to take on a journey. Nutmeg or made to your taste. If you like it richer, two eggs may be put in."

"Bread Rusk
Take as much lightened dough, as wopuld make a loaf of bread, spread it open, and put in a tea-cup of sugar, some nutmeg and a piece of butter; work it well, mould it out, and bake it with your bread; wet the top with sugar and cream before it goes into the oven."
---A Quaker Woman's Cookbook/Weaver (p. 124-125)

German Zweiback

"In German a rusk is a zweiback, i.e. twice baked. It takes the form of a small loaf which can be sold fresh but which ordinarily is sliced before toasting and further baking until dry. It crossed the Atlantic with German emingrants in the 1890s and is common in the USA. The French equivalent, biscotte, is baked as an oblong loaf, sliced, then toasted in a hotter oven than is used to dry English rusks."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 676)

"Zweibach is an American English term which is etymologically, and to some extent semantically, identical with biscuit. it is a sort of rusk made by cutting up a small loaf and toasting or baking the slices slowly until they are dry. Hence they are in effect 'twice cooked'--a notion expressed in French by biscuit and in German by zwieback (from zwie, a variant of zwei, 'twice' and backen, 'bake'). The word seems to have crossed the Atlantic with German emigrants in the 1890s. Zwiebacks are often given to teething babies."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 375)


Chocolate chip cookies

Ruth Wakefield [June 17, 1903-January 10, 1977], Whitman Mass., is credited for inventing chocolate chip cookies at her Toll House Restaurant in the early 1930s. According to the story, Ruth used a Nestle candy bar for her chips. We will probably never know if Ruth was the very first person to put chocolate pieces in cookies, but she is certainly the one who made them famous. Nestle began marketing Ruth's chocolate chip cookies to the general public in 1940. The caption under the photograph printed by the New York Times (January 2, 1985 I 12:5) describing the fire that destroyed Ruth Wakefield's kitchen the reads "Wreckage of Toll House Restaurant in Whitman, Mass. It was where the chocolate chip cookie was invented." In the July, 1997 Governor Weld signed legislation that declared chocolate chip cookies to be the *official cookie of the Commonwealth* in honor or Ruth Wakefield (much to the dismay of the Fig Newton faction).

"Nestle's Semi-Sweet Chocolate Bars for making 'Toll House' cookies, 2 Bars for 25 cents,"
---display ad, Los Angeles Times, January 29, 1940 (p. 4)

"Here's a new cookie that evryobody loves because it is so delicious, so different and so easy to make. With each crisp bite you taste a delicious bit of Nestle's Semi-Sweet Chocolate and a crunch of rich walnut meat. A perfect combination. Here's a proven recipe that never fails. Try it tomorrow.
1 cup butter
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs, beaten whole
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon hot water
2 1/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped nuts
2 Nestle's Semi-Sweet Economy Bars (7 oz. ea.)
1 teaspoon vanilla
Important: Cut the Nestle's Semi-Sweet in pieces the size of a pea. Cream butter and add sugars and beaten egg. Dissolve soda in the hot water and mix alternately with the flour sifted with the salt. Lastly add the cholled nuts and the pieces of semisweet chocolate. Flavor with the vanilla and drip half teaspoons on a greased cookie sheet. Bake 10 to 12 munites in a 375 degree F. oven. Makes 100 cookies. Every one will be surprised and delighted to find that the chocolate does not melt. Insist on Nestle's Semi-Sweet Chocolate in the yellow Wrap, there is no substitute. This unusual recipe and many others can be found in Mrs. Ruth Wakefield's Cook Book--"Toll House Tried and True Recipes," on sale at all book stores."
---display ad, Chicago Tribune, April 26, 1940 (p. 24)

"Toll House Chocolate Crunch Cookies
Cream 1 cup butter, add 3/4 cup brown sugar, 3/4 cup granulated sugar and 2 eggs beaten whole. Dissolve 1 tsp. Soda in 1 tsp. Hot water, and mix alternately with 2 1/4 cups flour sifted with 1 tsp. Salt. Lastly add 1 cup chopped nuts and 2 bars (7-oz.) Nestles yellow label chocolate, semi-sweet, which has been cut in pieces the size of a pea. Flavor with 1 tsp vanilla and drip half teaspoons on a greased cookie sheet. Bake 10 to 12 minutes in 375 degrees F. Oven. Makes 100 cookies."
---Toll House Tried and True Recipes, Ruth Wakefield [M. Barrows:New York] 1947 (p. 216)

The Hershey's 1934 Cookbook contains a recipe for "Chocolatetown chip cookies" (p. 75) that includes a 12 ounce package of Hershey's Baking Chips.

Ms. Wakefield's cookbook collection is currently located at the Henry Whittemore Library of Framingham State College (MA).


Petit fours & mignardise

The confusion regarding "petit four" is that it is not a recipe. It is a term denoting a wide variety of small, fancy cakes and cookie. Some people today think of petits fours as defined by mail-order food companies: bite-sized seasonally-decorated chocolate-covered muli-layered cake-like confections.

What is a *real* petit four and why the name?

"Petit four. A small fancy biscuit (cookie), cake or item of confectionery. The name, according to Careme, dates from the 18th century, when ovens were made of brick and small items had to be cooked a petit four (at a very low temperature), after large cakes had been take out and the temperature had dropped. After the bonbons, dragees, marzipans, pralines and crystallized (candied) fruits that were in vogue during the Renaissance and in the reign of Louis XIV, other tidbits were created. They required imagination an flair by the pastry cooks to reproduce the large-scale decorations in miniature. Careme himself attached great importance to the petits fours known as colifichets..."
---Larousse Gastronomique, completely revised and updated [Clarkson Potter:New York] 2001 (p. 876)

"Petit four. A petit four is a small fancy cake, biscuit, or sweet-such as a piece of marzipan or a crystallized or chocolate covered fruit--typically severed nowadays with coffee at the end of a meal. The term is French in origin. It means literally small oven', and may have come from the practice of cooking tiny cakes and biscuits a petit four, that is in low oven, at low temperature'. It was adopted into English in the late nineteenth century."
---An A-Z of Food & Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 252)

The Oxford English Dictionary does non include references to this term.

The oldest reference we find for this term appears in Jules Gouffre's The Royal Cookery Book [1869] "Remarks on Dessert. Under this heading I have given a limited number of recipes of Petits-Fours, of Bonbons and Ices, without attempting an elaborate treatise of confectionery,-a course which would have required far more space than I have left." (p. 545). Gouffre lists these items under the heading "Petits fours": filbert macaroons, pistachio macaroons, chocolate macaroons, macaroons souffles, lemon massepains (marzipan), almond paste loaves flavoured with orange, almond paste loaves with apricot jam, almond paste crescents, almond paste cakes, almond paste rings, almond paste tartlets with pine-apple, ice wafers, dutch wafers, Raspberry bouchees de Dames, coffee glaces, marascsino glaces, small meringues with cherries, etc.

The first mention of "petits fours" in The New York Times was a menu for a dinner given by Mr. Randolph Guggenheim (lawyer), January 28, 1894 (p. 17).

ABOUT MIGNARDISE
The term mignardise, as applied to the culinary world, means an assortment of small, dainty confections. This assortment is generally composed of petits fours in the larger sense: tiny decorated cakes, specialty cookies, bonbons and sugared fruits. In other words, a plate of identical petits fours confections (no matter how ornate) would not be considered a mignardise. A mixed presentation of small, decorated specialty pastries, cookies and candies would qualify as mignardise.

General French definitions

"Mignardise. Preciousness, ornateness, daintiness, affectation."
---Collins Robert French English/English French Dicitonary, unabridged, Beryl Atkins et al, 4th ed. [HarperCollins:New York]1995 (p. 512)

"Mignardise. Daintiness, delicacy."
---Harrap's New Standard French and English Dictionary (p. M:40)

Culinary definitions

"Mignardises. Small, dainty confections."
---Master Dictionary of Food and Cookery, Henry Smith [Philosphical Library:New York] 1950 (p. 153)

"Mignardise. (i) Decorative pastry puff, (ii) Small dainty dish."
---International Dictionary of Food & Cooking, Ruth Martin [Hastings House:New York] 1974 (p. 177)

"At a sophisticated meal in France, an assortment of petits fours (sometimes known as mignardises) may be served either with or after the dessert."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Jenifer Harvey Lang, editor [Crown:New York] 1988 p. 793)

Escoffier (1903/Le Guide Culinaire) does not not have a separate entry for mignardise.


Rugelach

Sour cream cookery is a Central European tradition with ancient Middle Eastern roots. Cookies, pastries and cakes combining this ingredient with fruits, jams, nuts and spices are specialties of this part of the world. According to the food historians, contemporary Jewish-American rugelach (typically made with cream cheese) descends from this tradition. George Lang's The Cuisine of Hungary [New York:Atheneum 1982] contains several examples: Dios szelet (walnut pie), Edes okorszem (Sweet Bull's Eye) and Gyumolcskosarkak (Little Fruit Crescents) among them.

These cookies are known by different names in different countries: Kipfel (Germany), kifli (Yugolsavia) and cream cheese cookies (United States). Presumably, the first recipes for rugelach-type foods were introduced to America by immigrants from Hungary, Yugoslavia and neighboring countries. Some of these immigrants were Jewish.

Mildred Bellin's Jewish Cookbook [Tudor Publishing:New York, 1958] offers two recipes for rugelach. One is a traditional yeast based product, the other is discreetly tucked under "Hungarian cream cheese cookies,Variation II," containing unsalted butter, cream cheese, sugar, flour and salt. Ms. Bellin observes:

"The variety of cookies and confections which may be found in a Jewish home reflects the long history and international background of its inhabitants. There are for the holidays traditional sweets, some of which like Hamantaschen, are a historic part of the festival. Others originated in the many lands in which the Jewish people lived, but through the generations became part of their own tradition. The cookies popular in the United States today are eagerly tried by Jewish cooks, and are served as frequently as the older ones." (p. 262)

"There is no other Jewish sweet that has gone more mainstream than rugelach. Basically a crescent-shaped cookies that comes from the Yiddish "rugel" (royal), it is also called kipfel, cheese bagelach, and cream-cheese horns of plenty in this country. The yeast-based and often butter or sour cream-based dough in Europe was usually rolled out into circles, cut into pie shapes, covered with nuts, raisins, sugar, and cinnamon and then rolled up like pinwheels. It can also be rolled out into a rectangle, covered with filling, rolled up, and cut into circles...The American addition to rugelach was cream cheese and the myriad fillings used today. The cream-cheese dough may have been developed by the Philadelphia Cream Cheese Company because the dough is often called Philadelphia cream-cheese dough. One of the the early cream-cheese doughs appeared in The Perfect Hostess, written in 1950 by Mildred Knopf. Mrs. Knopf, the sister-in-law of Alfred Knopf the publisher, mentioned that the recipe came from Nela Rubenstein, the wife of the famous pianist Arthur Rubenstein. It was Mrs. Knopf's friend Maida Heatter who put rugelah on the culinary map with Mrs. Heatter's grandmother's recipe. It is the most sought after of all Mrs. Heatter's recipes and is the rugelach most often found in upscale bakeries nationwide."
---Jewish Cooking in America, Joan Nathan [Alfred A. Knopf:New York] 1998 (p. 351-2)

SELECTED RECIPES

[1958]
"Rugelach--Elsie Waldman's Recipe

1 cake yeast
1 cup commercial sour cream
4 cups unsifted all-purpose flour
3 egg yolks, well beaten
1/2 pound butter (or part margarine)
1/2 cup sugar
1/16 teaspoon salt
Have all ingredients at room temperature. Crumble the yeast into the cream. Alternately add the flour and egs. Cream together the butter, sugar, and salt, and blend thoroughly into the batter. Divide the dough into 4 parts, wrap each in waxed paper, and chill in the refrigerator overnight. Roll out each part of the dough into a strip 6 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick. Spread each with jam, and sprinkle with any or all of the following: raisins, ground cinnamon, sugar, ground nut meats, and shredded cocoanut. Roll up and cut each roll into 12 slices. Place on greased cookie sheets and bake at 375 degrees F. About 30 minutes, until a rich brown."
---The Jewish Cook Book, Mildred Grosberg Bellin [Tudor Publishing Company:New York] 1958 (p. 268)

[2004]
Joan Nathan's
apricot or chocolate rugelach recipe (Jewish Cooking in America/PBS):


Scooter Pies & Mallomars

According to the food historians, manufactured marshmallow cake and cookie treats were first marketed to the American public in the early decades of the 20th century. These most likely descended from Victoria sandwich cakes. Advances in technology made marshmallow products of all kinds readily available to the American public. Products proliferated.

Moon pies, Mallomars, Marshmallow Sandwiches, Marshmallow Fluff, s'mores and dozens of other marshmallow-based concoctions were immediate hits.

Scooter Pies were "second generation" so to speak. They were "born" in 1959. According to the records of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, Scooter Pies were introduced December 17, 1959 (Registration #0834843) by Burry's, then a division of Quaker Oats. How much did they cost 40 years ago? Thirty-nine cents for a 14 oz package, according to a Waldbaum's [grocery store] ad that ran in the New York Times September 9, 1964 (p. 39). Like Mallomars, these marshmallow chocolate treats are promoted in the fall.

Vintage pictures of the Scooter Pie boxes:

Langue de chat

Many food history books mention Langue-de-chat, a small, dry, finger-shaped biscuit whose name translates literally as "cat's tongue," but none provide much in the way of definative history. We can surmise from the ingredients/method of cooking, the earliest cookies of this type might possibly date to the 17th century. At that time refined white sugar and piping bags (capable of extruding shapes) were popular with the wealthy classes of Northern Europe. Shaped sugar cookies and sweet biscuits (gemels, gimmows, sugar cakes etc.) date to Medieval times. Mexican wedding cakes, Russian tea cakes, Spanish polvorones, melindros and biscochos are all related. Our notes on these biscuits here.

"A langue de chat, literally a 'cat's tongue', is a flat thin finger-shaped sweet biscuit with rounded ends, typically served with desserts and sweet wines. Its name no doubt comes from its shape."
---An A-Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 184)

"Langue de chat...In the view of some experts, this biscuit derives its name from its shape--thin, flat and narrow, somewhat like a cat's tongue in appearance. Langes de chat, which are crisp, dry biscuits can be made, or rather flavored, in various ways. Only biscuits made according to the recipe given below, however, can properly be called langues de chat. These biscuits keep for quite a long time and are usually served with certain liqueurs and sparkling wines. They are also served with iced sweets (desserts) and used as an ingredients of various puddings."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Prosper Montage [Crown Publishers:New York] 1961 e(p. 578)

The earliest recipe we have for Langue de chat was published in The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book, 1919. The Hotel St. Francis (San Francisco, California) was a leader in early 20th century American cuisine.

[1919]
"Langue de chat, I.
Work a quarter pound of butter with a quarter pound of sugar until creamy. Then add four eggs, one by one, and keep on working until very smooth. Add a few drops of vanilla extract and a quarter pound of flour, and mix lightly. Put into a pastry bag and spread on a buttered pan in the shape of small lady fingers. Bake for a few minutes in a rather hot oven.

Langue de chat, II. One-quarter pound of sugar, one-quarter pound of butter, one-quarter pound of flour, the whites of three eggs, and a little vanilla flavor. Mix the sugar and butter until creamy; add the whites of eggs that have been well whipped to snow; add the flour and flavoring, and mix lightly. Dress on buttered pan like lady fingers, but smaller. Bake and remove from pan while hot."
---The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book, Victor Hirtzler [Hotel Monthly Press:Chicago] 1919 (p. 179-180)

[1927]
"Cats' Tongues, or Finger-Biscuits (Langues-de-Chats Fines)

The dough for this kind of cookie varies, but they are always cooked in the same way; it requires the use of thick black steel baking sheets; the cats' tongues will color too much on a thin baking sheet. If possible, it is a good idea to have two baking sheets, so that you can shape the dough on the second while the first is in the oven. Also, you need a pastry bag fitted with a nozzle 1/2 centimeter (3/16 inch) in diameter...If ou do not have one, you can use a large cone of heavy paper, cutting the end to the right diameter. You have to prepare as many cones of paper as the number of times you would need to refill the pastry bag, because these paper cones can be used only once. Time: 1 hour for the preparation. Makes 5 dozen.
125 gram (4 1/2 ounces, 9 tablespoons) of fine butter;
160 grams ( 5 2/3 ounces) of good sifted wheat flour;
140 grams (5 ounces) of confectioners' sugar;
1/2 teaspoon of vanilla powder; 2 egg whites beaten into a snow.
Procedure: Once the flour has been strained through a drum sieve or sifted, mix in the confectioners' sugar and the vanilla powder, then sift everything a second time through the drum sieve onto a stiff sheet of paper. Leave it on the table. Have ready the baking sheets, lightly buttered, as well as the pastry bag or the paper cones. In a terrine large enough to be able to mix the whites, work the mixture as directed...The whisk the egg whites into a snow...Add the prepared flour and sugar to the butter made into a pomade by lightly shaking the sheet of paper above the terrine while mixing with the wooden spoon, without working the dough too much. Finally, incorporate the egg whites beaten into a snow with the movement and care required for this mixture...Immediately afterward, fill the pouch of the paper cone. Pipe the dough onto the baking sheet in little sticks about half the length of a pencil. Leave about 3 centimeters (1 1/8 inches) of space between each little stick, because the dough will spread out a great deal when baking. Then immediately put them into an oven at a good medium heat for 7-8 minutes, until only the edge of the cookies has taken on a lightly brown golden tint. Take the baking sheet out of the oven and loosen the cookies from it by passing the flexible blad of a large knife under them."
---La Bonne Cuisine: The Original Companion for French Home Cooking, Madame E. Saint-Ange, translated and with an introduction by Paul Aratow [Ten Speed Press:Berkeley CA] 2005 (p. 717-8)
[NOTES: (1) Elipse (...)indicates directions to be found on other pages of this book. (2) We have a copy of the original French book. If you would like to see this recipe from that source let us know. Can scan, mail or fax.]

[1938]
"Langue de chat (Patisserie).
--Ce petit gateau est ainsi nomme, disent certains auteurs culinaries, a cause de sa forme plate et allongee qui est, parait-il, semblable a une langue de chat. A vrai dire, il faut mettre une extreme bonne volonte pour trouver que cette patisserie ressemble a une langue de felin domestique, amis n'ayant pas d'autre etymologie a proposer pour justifier cette appellation, nous l'adoptons sans discuter. Les langues de chat, qui appartiennent a la categorie des gateaux secs, se preparent de diverses facons, ou, du moins, peuvent etre partumees diversement. Mais seulement peuvent etre designes sous ce nom les petits gateaux dont ci-apres nous donnons les recettes. Les langues de chat, qui sone des patisseries d'assez longue conservation, se servent surtout comme accompagnement de certains vins de liqueur ou de vins mousseux. On les sert aussi comme accompagnement des entrements glaces et enfin, on les utilise dans la preparation de divers poudings."
---Larousse Gastronomique, Prosper Montage [Librarie Larousse:Paris] 1938 (p. 637)
[NOTE: This book also offers two recipes for langues de chat: simples and fines. If you would like us to fax you the pages we reference all we need is your number.]

Picasso's Still Life With Biscuits may very well have featured langes de chat. The piped ridges might very well have intrigued Picasso's eye. Still Life with Biscuits (langues de chat on plate on right)

Lemon bars

The term "bar cookies" or "squares" originated in the 20th century. The earliest examples we find in American cookbooks are from the 1930s [Date bars]. A survey of cookbooks suggests these recipes gained popularity as decades progressed. Food historians do not credit a specific person/place with the invention of "bar cookies." Presumably the practice evolved from earlier recipes, most notably brownies and fudge.

About lemon bars
Lemons are ancient foods enjoyed in many cultures and cuisines from the beginning of time through present day. The figured prominently in custards, pies, cheesecakes, candies, and baked goods. They were also used to flavor savory dishes (lemon chicken, etc.). Lemon bars, as we know them today, evolved from Renaissance times. Why? The ingredients provide the answer. This is when shortbread/crust was developed, lemon custard was very popular and sugar was sprinkled on everything.

"Buttery lemon bars. The two components of these luscious bars--shortbread and lemon curd--are old English favorites. But layering the two in a bar cookie is, I believe, a twentieth century innovation. My friend and colleague Joanne Hayes, food editor of County Living magazine, remembers lemon bars being tested while she was at McCall's magazine back in the '60s. Yet the McCall's Cook Book (1963) doesn't include them. Nor do other magazine cookbooks of that time. My hunch is that dessert specialist Maida Hatter popularized lemon bars. Two of her books offer variations on the theme. The more classic-Sour Lemon Squares...appears in Maida Heatter's New Book of Great Desserts (1982). Maida attributes the recipe to a friend in Scottsdale, Arizona. I wonder if that friend might have added her own touches to the 1970 Sunset magazine recipe..."
---American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century, Jean Anderson [Clarkson Potter:New York] 1997 (p. 499)
[NOTE: Sunset recipe is reprinted in this book. Your librarian can help you obtain a copy.]

"Lemon bars.
Everyone [in America] had a recipe for lemon bars in the Seventies after they appeared in Betty Crocker's Cooky Book (1963)."
---Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads, Sylvia Lovgren [MacMillan:New York] 1995 (p. 349)

Here is that recipe from 1963:

"Lemon squares.
1 cup Gold Medal Flour
1/2 cup butter or margarine
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
2 eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. Baking powder
1/4 tsp. Salt
2 tbsp. Lemon juice.
Heat oven to 350 degrees F. (Mod.). Measure flour by dipping method or by sifting. Blend flour, butter, and confectioners' sugar thoroughly. Press evenly in square pan, 8 X 8 X 2". Bake 20 minutes. Beat rest of the ingredients together. Pour over crust and bake 20 to 25 min. More. Do not overbake! (The filling puffs during baking but flattens when cooled.) Makes 16 squares."
---Betty Crocker's Cooky Book, fascimile 1963 edition [Hungry Minds:New York] 2002 (p. 13)
[NOTE: Even though this recipe is called "squares" it is included in the section on "bar cookies." Traditional bar cookies cooked in a shallow pan and cut after baking. There are also no-bake bar cookies.]
And another recipe from the same year:
"Crunchy Lemon Squares
Set out a 13 X 9 X 2-in. Baking pan.
Finely chop and set aside 1/2 cup (about 2 oz.) Pecans
Measure and set aside 1 cup sifted flour
Cream together 1/2 cup shortening, 2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
Add gradually, creaming until fluffy after each addition 1/2 cup sifted confectioners' sugar
Add gradually, beating thoroughly after each addition 2 egg yolks, beaten
Mixing until well blended after each addition, add flour in fourths to creamed mixture. Spread batter evenly over the bottom of pan. Bake at 350 degrees F. 10 min. Remove to cooling rack.
Meanwhile, beat until frothy 2 egg whites
Add gradually, beating well after each addition 1/2 cup sugar
Continue beating until rounded peaks are formed and egg whites do not slide when bowl is partially inverted.
Fold in the chopped pecans and 1 tablespoon lemon juice.
Spread evenly over first payer in pan. Return to oven and bake for 25 min. or until meringue is delicately browned.
Cool and cut into 2-in. Squares."
---The Family Home Cookbook, Culinary Arts Institute[Grosset & Dunlap:New York] 1963 (p. 421)

Mallomars

If you have to ask "what is a Mallomar?" you didn't grow up in the greater New York area. These chocolate enrobed marshmallow treats are in a class by themselves. According to the record of the records of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, they were introduced to the American public November 20, 1913 by the National Biscuit Company (registration number 0096171). They have been a fall tradition ever since. Why New York and why fall? Nabisco claims its because the product doesn't travel well and chocolate doesn't sell in the warmer months. Whatever. Those of us who still live around the city know it's fall when the Mallomars come back. Sort of like when the swallows return to Capistrano.

This is what the food historians have to say on the subject:

"On November 13, 1913, another famous cookie was born. Mallomar was described as "a delightful combination of marshmallow, jelly and layers of cake covered with chocolate icing." For several years before Mallomar, the company made a product called "Marshmallow Cream Sandwich," It was also convered with chocolate by only sold in bulk. When the formula for Mallomars was perfected, it was decided to make them a specialty and to pack them in the In-er-seal package. Later it, too, was made available in bulk."
---Out of the Cracker Barrel: From Animal Crackers to ZuZus, William Cahn (p. 144)
[NOTE: this book is about the history of the National Biscuit Company/Nabisco--your librarian can help you find a copy.]

The earliest Mallomar advertisment we've found far was published in the 1930s: "Chocolate Mallomars, 2 pkgs, 19 cents," New York Times, November 9, 1934 (p. 15). Our survey of ad placed in historic American newspapers confirms the "seasonality" of this product.

"In a few weeks, a small but fiercely loyal group of consumers will breathe a collective sigh of relief as they again are able to buy their favorite cookie. Following a traditional warm weather hiatus, the first batch of Mallomars cakes have rolled out of the ovens and will soon be on store shelves. Mallomars, for those who have never tried one, consist of a vanilla base cookie topped with a marshmallow dome and coated in dark chocolate. It is the chocolate that accounts for the seasonal nature of the cookie. ''I wish we could produce and sell them year round but the chocolate melts during the summer,'' said Henry Havemeyer, plant manager of the Philadelphia bakery of Nabisco Brands Inc. Havemeyer's facility is the world's only source of Mallomars. So each year, Nabisco halts Mallomars production, usually in late April and generally starts in again in late September. And each year, consumers follow what has become a ritual among Mallomars fans. In a recent letter to Nabisco, a man representing the ''Mallomars Fan Club of South Connecticut'' explained, ''Early in the spring, our members stockpile Mallomars, in their freezers, for the summer months. Sixteen or 18 packages per person seem to be adequate to stave off Mallomars withdrawal until the product reappears in September...'' Mark Kapsky, category business director for the Biscuit Division of Nabisco Brands, said the cookie has achieved almost a cult status among many people. ''Mallomars basically sells itself. We do little advertising or promotion and still sell every cookie,'' Kapsky said. The loyalty consumers have toward the chocolate encased cookie was described by a Florida man in a letter this spring, ''I'm a bit past 40 now and I guess I've been eating Mallomars since I was about 8 years old. At approximately two boxes a week, 18 cakes per, well, that computes to 29,952 already consumed, give or take a couple...'' The majority of Mallomars sales are tallied in the New York metropolitan area and Miami, according to Kapsky. Although available in some additional pockets of the country, since its introduction in 1913 the cookie has been a big seller in places like Brooklyn, N.Y., northern New Jersy and Long Island. The regional nature of the brand accounts for many of the letters the company receives from consumers regarding Mallomars. The author typically is a person who moved from the New York area and cannot find the cookie in his or her new city.... This past spring, however, Kapsky said the company received hundreds of unexpected complaints. A sales surge in March and April meant that when people went to buy their summer stash, there were few bright yellow boxes of Mallomars to be had. And when they're gone in April, they're gone until production resumes in September..."
--- "Mallomars make fall debut," Business Wire, October 20, 1987

Of course, there is ALWAYS the "other" side of the story:
The Cookie Crumbles," Gersh Kutzman


Mexican wedding cakes & Russian tea cakes

According to several food history sources and cookbooks, Mexican wedding cakes and Russian tea cakes (aka Biscochitos/Mexico, Tea cakes/Sweden, Melting Moments /Australia, Mandulas kiflik/Bulgaria, Biscochos/Cuba, Kourabi‚des/Greece, Polvorones/Italy & Spain, Rohlichky/Ukraine and Sand Tarts, Sandies, Butterballs & Moldy Mice/United States) are a universal holiday cookie-type treat. This means this recipe is not necessarily connected to any one specific country. It IS connected with the tradition of saving rich and expensive food (the richest butter, finest sugar, choicest nuts) for special occasions.

Food historians trace the history of these cookies and cakes to Medieval Arab cuisine, which was rich in sugar. Small sugar cakes with nuts (most often almonds) and spices were known to these cooks and quickly adopted by the Europeans. This sweet culinary tradition was imported by the Moors to Spain, diffused and assimilated throughout Europe, then introduced to the New World by 16th century explorers. Sugar cookies, as we know them today, made their appearance in th 17th century. About sugar. Recipes called Mexican wedding cakes descend from this tradition. They first appear in American cookbooks in the 1950s.

ABOUT THE DIFFUSION OF MEDIEVAL ARAB CUISINE
"...in looking for the roots of Spanish food traditions one must go back to the Phoenicians, who founded the city now called Cadiz in 1100BC; the ancient Greeks, and the Carthaginians...and more important, the Romans who used Spain as a major source of food, especially wheat and olive oil...Introductions by the Arabs were also of fundamental importance for Spain's future. They are particularly associated with the use of almonds (the essential ingredient for so many Spanish desserts, baked goods, and confectionery items); with the introduction of citrus fruits (including the lemon and the bitter (Seville) orange, without which British marmalade would never have been born); sugar cane and the process of refining sugar from its juice..."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 741)

"...the Spanish sweet tooth is gratified by a range of dessert wines and liqueurs and special-occasion candies, some of almost Oriental sugariness. Almonds and honey are included in many of them Turron, or nougat, white or dark, soft or brittle, is exceedingly more-ish and is now a big industry in Jijona. The Arabic influences in candy-making are pronounced and candies such as amarguillos date from Moorish times...In the Spanish kitchen, milk and cream are commandeered for desserts, particularly in the north...The national dessert...is caramel custard, called flan."
---Recipes from a Spanish Village, Pepita Aris [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1990 (p. 124)

Moorish Heritage in the Cusines Of Spain and Portugal, Teresa de Castro

"Polvorones Sevillanos
These typical Spanish holiday cookies are of Arab origin, but just about every country in the Western world has some version of a sugar cookie. Sevilla is famous for its cookies, but they are also found throughout Spain. Although often made with lard, butter produces a finer cookie."
---The Foods and Wines of Spain, Penelope Casas [Knopf:New York] 1982 (p. 745)

"Sevillian sweetmeats are the most popular in all of Spain. The art of Sevillian baking has enjoyed great fame ever since Renaissance times, although in fact it goes back to the Arabs, whose passion for honey, almonds and pine kernels is still very evident in today's sweets. Sevillian master bakers produce a wide range of delicacies, including tortas de aceite (very flat, round, flaky cakes), which originated in nearby Castilleja de la Cuesta, and polvorones (sweet, crumbly, almond cakes), which are first recorded as being made in Estepa."
---http://www.sevillacultural.com/ocio/english/gastronomy.htm

Polvorones translated into biscochitos once they settled in Mexico. The traditional Seville orange flavor eventually subsided.

"Biscochitos (Spanish cookies)
Biscochitos are a "new world" food with "old world" roots. Introduced to Mexico by Spanish explorers in the 16th century, their true origin can be traced to Medieval Arabian cuisine. When the Moors invaded Seville, they brought this recipe with them. Biscochitos (known in many countries/cusines by different names) are traditionally associated with holiday feasts; most notably Christmas. Variations on this recipe are endless. Orange juice/rind is probably one of the oldest...Seville is/was famous for oranges.
Chokeberries (Aronia melanocarpa) are "new world" foods.

Biscochitos are made from rich pie pastry dough. Add baking powder, 1 tsp. Cleaned anize seed, & sugar to sweeten. Roll on bread board 1/3 inch thick. Cut into long strips about 1 2/3 inches wide, and then across into 2 inch lengths. Cut little narrow strips about an inch long on sides, pull long, and roll back each strip into a curlicue; dip in sugar and bake."
---The Genuine New Mexico Tasty Recipes, Cleofas M. Jaramillo, Unabridged reprint of Seton Village Press edition, 1942 [Ancient City Press: Santa Fe NM] 1981 (p. 23)

Did you know? The bizcochito is the official cookie of New Mexico!

12-3-4. J. The bizcochito is adopted as the official cookie of New Mexico. 1989, ch. 154,  1; . Recipe here.

MEXICAN WEDDING CAKES

The cookie is old, the name is new. Food historians place the first recipes named "Mexican wedding cakes" in the 1950s. Why the name? Our books and databases offer no explanations. Perhaps timing is everything? Culinary evidence confirms Mexican wedding cakes are almost identical to Russian Tea Cakes. During the 1950s and 1960s relations between Russia and the United States were strained. It is possible the Cold War provided the impetus for renaming this popular cookie. Coincidentally? This period saw the mainstreaming of TexMex cuisine into American culture.

"Mexican wedding cake. A buttery, melt-in-your-mouth cookie that's usually ball-shaped and generally contains finely chopped almonds, pecans or hazelnuts. It's usually rolled in confectioners' sugar while still hot, then again after the cookie has cooled. Many countries have their own rendition of this rich cookie. Two versions are Russian tea cakes and Spain's polvornes."
---Food Lover's Companion, Sharon Tyler Herbst, 3rd edition [Barron:New York] 2001 (p. 385)

"Mexican wedding cakes. These cookies masquerade under several names--Butterballs, Russian Tea Cakes, Swedish Tea Cakes, Moldy Mice. "Butterballs" is easy enough to explain--these little balls are buttery--but I have no idea how they came by their other pseudonyms. The are also known sometimes as Pecan Sandies, although true sandies are nearer shortbread. Mexican Wedding Cakes were a community cookbook staple throughout the 50s and 60s..."
---American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Foods of the 20th Century, Jean Anderson [Clarkson Potter:New York] 1997 (p. 481)
[NOTE: Ms. Anderson provides a recipe in her book.]

"Cookies continue to outnumber all other recipe requests in our reader mail. Most in demand of late is a rich, semi-sweet butter cooky that is made in many countries and has many names and variations. In America it is best known as Nut Butter Balls or Almond Crescents. Mexican Wedding Cakes, Russian Tea Cakes, Danish Almond Cookies and Finnish Butter Strips are other titles for cookies made with the same basic dough. Still other names such as Napolean Hats, Melting Moments and Filbert Jelly Fills come from variation in shaping the cookies."
---"Recipe: How Cooky Is Put Together," Los Angeles Times, December 3, 1964 (p. G21

The oldest recipe we have for Mexican wedding cookies was published in 1951.

[1951]
"Mexican Wedding Cakes

1/2 cup butter or margarine
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1/2 cup chopped nuts
1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream butter with sugar. Add flour gradually, beating well after each addition. Add nuts and vanilla and blend. Shape into crescents, place on an ungreased cooky sheet. Bake in slow oven (325 degrees F.) for 15 to 18 minutes. Approximate yield: 4 dozen crescents. Crisp little things, ready to break in the mouth, melting richly on the tongue."
---"Quick-as-a-Wink Dishes," Clementine Paddleford, Los Angeles Times, April 29, 1951 (p. G27)

[1955]
"Mexican Wedding Cakes
(a variation of Nut Butter Balls)

Nut Butter Balls
1 cup soft butter or margarine
1/4 to 1/2 cup granulated or confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract; or 2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1 to 2 cups finely chopped or ground walnuts, pecans, almonds, black walnuts, Brazil nuts, or filberts.
Mix butter with sugar until very light and fluffy. Add salt, extract, flour, nuts; mix well. Refrigerate until easy to handle. Start heating oven to 350 degrees F. Shape dough into 1" balls or 1" to 2" X 1/2" rolls, triangles, or crescents. Place on ungreased cookie sheet. (Or drop by level tablesoonfuls onto cookie sheet.) Bake 12 to 15 minutes, or until light brown. While cookies are warm, roll in granulated or confectoners' sugar, fine cookie crumbs, or cinnamon and sugar. Makes 4 to 5 dozen.

Mexican Wedding Cakes: With bottom of tumbler dipped into flour, flatten each 1" ball. Bake at 325 degrees F. 12 minutes. While cookies are warm, sprinkle with confectioners' sugar."
---Good Housekeeping Cook Book, Dorothy B. Marsh editor [Good Housekeeping Book Division:New York] 1955 (p. 479)
[NOTE: this book does not contain a recipe for Russian Tea Cakes.]

[1956]
"Russian Teacakes, Crunchy, sugared, nut-filled snowballs

This favorite with men came to us from a man. Carl Burkland, an eastern radio executive, often makes them himself at Christmastime.
Mix thoroughly...1 cup soft butter, 1/2 cup sifted confectioners' sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla
Sift together and stir in....2 1/4 cups sifted Gold Medal Flour, 1/4 teaspoon salt
Mix in...3/4 cup finely chopped nuts
Chill dough. Roll into 1" balls. Place on ungreased baking sheet (cookies to not spread). Bake until set, but not brown. While still warm, roll in confectioners' sugar. Cool. Roll in sugar again.
Temperature: 400 degrees F. (Mod. Hot oven).
Time: Bake 10 to 12 minutes ---Betty Crocker's Picture Cook Book, Revised and Enlarged, Second Edition (Third Printing) [McGraw-Hill Book Company:New York] 1956 (p. 220)

Melting Moments appears to be an Australian contribution

[1928]
"Melting Moments

1/2 lb. cornflour, 6 oz. butter, 3 oz. castor sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon baking powder. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs, then stir in slowly the cornflour and baking powders sifted together. Bake in patty tins for 15 minutes."
---The Schauer Cookery Book, improved Australian and sixth Edition [W.R. Smith & Paterson Ltd.:Brisbane Queensland] 1928 (p. 441) [NOTE: the 1956 edition of this book does not include a recipe for Melting Moments. It offers, instead, a recipe for Melters which also includes cornstarch.]

[1950s]
"Shortbreard Kisses (Melting Moments)

4 oz Butter
2 oz. Flour
2 oz. Cornflour
1 oz. Icing Sugar
1 level teaspoon Baking Powder
Butter cake method...With a teaspoon of biscuit forcer put in small piles on baking-tray. Place small piece of angelica or preserved cherry on each. Bake in slow oven (325 degrees) 10-15 minutes."
Whitcombe's Every Day Cookery [Whitcome & Tombes Ltd., Australia] 303rd Thousand, undated (probably 1950s?) p. 224

"IMMEDIATELY apparent in Stephanie Alexander's new book, Recipes My Mother Gave Me, is the sense of family tradition. Many of the recipes are taken from her mother Mary Burchett's book, Through My Kitchen Door, published in 1960. Melting Moments, Peach Melba, Battered Steak with Peas, Cabbage Rolls and Lemon Butter are stand outs. Since Alexander's decision to close her internationally recognised and award-winning restaurant, Stephanie's, at the end of this year, Alexander has opened the Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder in the inner Melbourne suburb of Richmond. It is in this informal setting, between sips of peppermint tea, that she speaks about the importance of passing recipes on from one generation to another. "I believe there is a lack of cooking skills which is not one generation deep but I think it is at least two generations deep. For the mothers of most of today's teenagers, and even perhaps a little older, they don't know how to cook. They have abandoned their mother's traditions...If Recipes My Mother Gave Me is to have lasting influence, it may not necessarily and perhaps surprisingly be due to the recipes it contains.Although showing how the handing down of recipes in a family can offer lasting pleasures, the book's wider significance may be that it prompts readers to preserve their own recipes for posterity and passing on."
--- "Taste for tradition," C. BANTICK, Courier Mail (Queensland, Australia), November 26, 1997, LIFE; Pg. 31

[1961]
"Melting Moments is another delicious cooky. As the name implies, these cookies are so rich with butter that they do melt in the mouth. Cornstarch, another ingredient, also contributes to the tenderness of these cookies for which Mrs. Paley gave the following recipe:
Melting Moments
1 cup butter
1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch of salt.
1. Cream the butter. Gradually stir in the sugar and beat untl light in color.
2. Sift flour. Measure, add cornstarch and sift again. Add to butter mixture. Add remaning ingredients and mix until well blended.
3. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a greased cooky sheet and bake in a moderate ofen (350 degrees) for fifteen minutes or until the cookies are a pale golden color. Yield: About two dozen cookies."
---"Food News: Australian Schools, Teach Cooking," June Owen, New York Times, June 3, 1961 (p. 14)

[1963]
"Russian Teacakes

Sometimes called Mexican Wedding Cakes
1 cup butter or sifted margarine
1/2 cup sifted confectioners' sugar
1 tsp. Vanilla
2 1/4 cups Gold Medal Flour
1/4 tsp. Salt
3/4 cup finely chopped nuts
Mix butter, sugar, and vanilla thoroughly. Measure flour by dipping method...or by sifting. Stir flour and salt together; blend in. Mix in nuts. Chill dough. Heat oven to 400 degrees F. (Mod.hot). Roll dough in 1" balls. Place on ungreased baking sheet. (Cookies do not spread.) Bake 10 to 12 min., or until set but not brown. While still warm, roll in confectioners' sugar. Cool. Roll in sugar again. Makes about 4 doz. 1" cookies. Note: Do not used Gold Medal Self-Rising Flour in this recipe."
---Betty Crocker's Cooky Book, General Mills, facsimile 1963 edition [Hungry Minds:New York] 2002 (p. 25)

[1964]
"Melting Moments

1/2 cup corn starch
1/2 cup confectioners sugar
1 cup sifted flour
3-4 cup corn oil margarine
coconut
Sift corn starch, confectioners sugar and flour together into a mixing bowl. Blend in corn oil margarine with spoon, mixing until soft dough forms. Shape into 1-inch balls. Place about 1 1/2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheet; flatten with slightly floured fork. Sprinkle with coconut. Bake in 300 degrees F. (slow) oven 20 to 25 minutes, until edges are lightly browned. Makes about 2 dozen cookes. CHOCOLATE MELTING MOMENTS: Follow recipe for Melting Moments, sifting 1/54 cup cocoa and 1/4 teaspoon salt with dry ingredients, and placing a nut on top of each cookie before baking."
---"Choose Desserts the Sing 'The Praises of Spring," Chicago Daily Defender, April 16, 1964 (p. 28)

A survey of historic American recipes indicates sand tarts, as we know them today, may have descended from simple sugar cookies. Food historians do not offer definative information regarding the genesis of the recipe's name. Perhaps it was inspired by the color of the finished product?

[1886]
"Sand Tarts

1 pound of granulated sugar
Yolks of three eggs
1/2 pound of butter
Whites of two eggs
Flour enough to make a stiff paste
Beat the butter and sugar together; add the yolks beaten to a cream, then the whites well beaten; mix all well together, and add the flour. Roll out on a baking-board, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown."
---Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Mrs. S.T. Rorer [Arnold and Company:Philadelphia] 1886 (p. 498)

[1896]
"Sand tarts
, Boston Cooking School Cook Book, Fannie Merritt Farmer

[1931]
"Sand tarts

1/2 cup butter
3/4 cup light brown sugar.
1 egg.
2 cups sifted flour.
2 teaspoons baking powder.
1/4 teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon cinnamon.
3 tablespoons granulated sugar.
Halved almonds or pecans.
Cream together the butter and brown sugar, and add the well-beated egg. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt, and add to the first mixture. On a lightly floured board make a roll of the dough about 3 inches in diameter. Wrap in waxed paper and let stand for several hours or overnight in a cold place. In the morning slice wafer thin with a sharp knife, and sprinkle with a mixture of the cinnamon and granulated sugar. Press a nut in the center of each cookie. Bake in a moderate oven (350 degrees F.) For about 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Store in air-tight containers."
---Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes Revised, Bureau of Gome Economics, U.S. Department of Agriculture [United States Government Printing Office:Washington DC] 1931 (p. 119)

Russian tea cakes

The typical Russian Tea Cake recipe calls for butter, eggs, flour, salt, vanilla, nuts (walnuts, almonds, pecans, hazelnuts) and confectioner's sugar. This particular combination of ingredients essentially dates back to the Jumbles baked in Medieval Europe (minus the vanilla).

Noble Russian cuisine (along with every other facet of noble life) was influenced by prevailing French customs during the 18th century. Tea was first introduced to Russia in 1618, but the Russian tea ceremony of samovars and sweet cakes was a legacy of Francophile Catherine the Great in the 18th century. It is interesting to note that A Gift to Young Housewives, Elena Molokhovet [1870s popular Russian cookbook] contains plenty of recipes for a variety of small baked goods, none specifically entitled Russian tea cakes. There are, however, several recipes which use similar ingredients. If you want to examine these recipes you are in luck. Gift fo a Young Housewife has recently been reprinted [in English with extensive notes provided by Joyce Toomre] by Indiana University Press (1992). Your librarian can borrow a copy for you.

If you want to contribute sweet treats for a traditional Russian tea ask your librarian to help you find The Art of Russian Cuisine, Anne Volokh. If you need something right now check out these recipes.

About Russian tea


No-bake cookies

Food historians tell us unbaked confections composed of nuts, dried fruit, seeds and sweeteners were made by ancient Middle eastern cooks. "No bake" candies, as we Americans know them today, surfaced in cookbooks published during the Great Depression. Like their ancient counterparts, contemporary "No Bakes" contain dried/desiccated fruit, nuts, and/or seeds glued together with a sugar (honey, Karo) or fat (peanut butter, butter, margarine). No bake cookies (generally pressed into a pan and cut in squares/bars) descend from the same tradition. These recipes appear in the 1950s. The primary difference between bake and no bake' recipes (besides the obvious oven time, of course!) is the "no bakes" do not contain eggs or flour. They are not intended to rise.

A brief survey of American "no bake" recipes through time

[1936]
"Date Balls.

Stone: 1 pound dates, or use 1/2 pound seeded dates Put them through a food chopper with: 1 cup chopped pecan meats Add: 1/4 teaspoon salt Shape the candy into tiny balls. Roll them in: Powdered sugar."

"Persian Balls.
Remove the seeds from: 1 pound dates, or use 1/2 pound seeded dates Cut the stems from 1 pound dried figs Put these ingredients thorugh the coarsest cutter of a meat grinder with: 1 pound seeded raisins, 1 pound pecan meats, 1/3 pound crystallized ginger Shape these ingredients into balls. Roll them in: Powdered sugar.
---The Joy of Cooking, Irma S. Rombauer [Bobbs-Merrill:Indianapolis IN] 1936 (p. 543)

[1942]
"Fruit Cookies
(Unbaked)
1 lb. raisins
1 lb. figs
1 lb. dates
1 lb. cooked prunes
1 c. nuts
1 lb. graham crackers
2 tb. lemon juice
2 tb. honey
Grind fruit and nuts; add lemon juice and honey. Mix thoroughly and make into roll. Keep in refrigerator. Serve thin slices."
---Granddaugher's Inglenook Cookbook [Bretheren Publishing House:Elgin IL] 1942 (p. 51)

[1952]
"Honey Bars

2 Cups Raisins
1 Cup Mixed Nuts
1/4 Cup Honey
Grind raisins and nuts. Mix with honey and press into sheet 1/2 inch thick. Cover, and place weight on top for 24 hours. Cut in bars. Roll in white or colored coconut."

"Raisin Peanut Balls
1/2 Cup Peanut Butter
1 Cup Raisins
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
1/4 Cup Powdered Sugar
1/2 Cup Shredded Coconut
1/4 Teaspoon Salt
Plumb raisins by steaming. Drain and chop. Roll coconut into fine pieces. Toast to a light brown in moderate oven (370 degrees F.). Mix peanut butter, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, salt, and raisins. Blend thoroughly. Shape into small balls. Roll in toasted coconut."
---Searchlight Recipe Book, Ida Migliaria, et al [Household:Topeka KA] 1952 (p. 81)

[1962]
"No-Bake Cookie Balls

1 pkg. Semisweet chocolate pieces (1 cup)
3 tablesp. White corn syrup
3 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
1 cup chopped walnuts
2 teasp. instant coffee
1/3 cup hot water
1 3/4 cups finely crushed packaged vanilla wafers (about 3 doz.)
1/2 cup sifted confectioners' sugar.
In double boiler over hot, not boiling, water, melt chocolate; remove from heat. Mix in syrup, 3 cups sugar, nuts, coffee dissolved in hot water, wafer crumbs. Form into 1" balls. Roll in 1/2 cup sugar. Store in covered container a day or so to ripen. Makes about 5 doz."
---Good Housekeeping Cook Book, Dorothy B. Marsh [Good Housekeeping:New York] 1962 (p. 480)
[NOTE: It is interesting to note mid-1950s "no bake" recipes typically employ popular packaged/processed items. Perhaps the idea was a timely treat promoted by food companies? The earliest mention we find for "no bake" cookies was printed in the Good Housekeeping Cook Book, 1962 (copyright 1955).]

[1963]
Holiday Apricot Balls

1 pkg. (8 oz.) dried apricots, ground or finely cut
2 1/2 cups flaked coconut
3/4 sweetened condensed milk
1 cup finely chopped nuts
Blend apricots, coconut, and milk well. Shape in small balls. Roll in chopped nuts. Let stand about 2 hr. to firm. Makes about 5 doz. balls."
---Betty Crocker's Cooky Book, facsimile 1963 edition [Hungry Minds:New York] 2002 (p. 135)


Oatmeal cookies

Oatmeal cookies, as we Americans know them today, descend from ancient bannocks and oatcakes known to peoples of the British Isles. The raisins, nuts, and spices commonly found in today's oatmeal cookies date to the Middle Ages. Oats, and their recipes, were introduced to the New World by European explorers in the 17th century. In 19th century America, oats were considered health foods. They were recommended to invalids and served as hearty breakfast fare (mush/porridge). Culinary evidence confirms the crossover from "health food" to confection occured around the turn of the 20th century. Several other popular American foods made the same leap at this juncture (thanks to corporate America): breakfast cereal and chocolate pudding among them.

About oats, oatmeal, oatcakes & bannocks

"Oats...The first traces of cultivation...date from about 1000 BC in Central Europe. However, the Greeks and Romans of classical times were unimpressed, regarding oats as coarse, barbarian fare; and the Romans used them mainly as animal fodder, but did foster the growing of oats in Britain, where they were to become important as a food for human beings. Indeed, they became the principal cereal in Wales and, even more markedly, in Scotland...There seems to be an affinity between oats and people of Celtic origin."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan Davidson [Oxford University:Oxford] 1999 (p. 547)

"The cereal grass which produces the seeds called oats originated as a weed in wheat and barley fields, which was accidentally harvested with the main crop. In due course it came to be cultivated in its own right in northern Europe, and was introduced to Britain in the Iron Age. The Romans knew of it (their word for it was avena...), but only as a weed, or as a fodder plant--although Pliny, anticipating Dr. Johnson, mentions that the Germanic peoples made porridge with it. The word oat, which is a descendant of Old English ate, is a pure English term, with no known relatives in other languages. The remaining Germanic languaves have interrelated names for the plant...Oatmeal, the term for flour made from oats, was coined in the fifteenth century."
---An A to Z of Food and Drink, John Ayto [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 2002 (p. 229)
[NOTE: Oatmeal, ground oats mixed with milk/cream, descends from ancient
pottage. These econmical, nutritious, belly-filling dishes provided energy needed by hard working people.]

"Oatcakes made from oats (in the form of oatmeal), salt, and water, sometimes with a little fat added, were the staple food of the inhabitants of the Pennines and the Lake District in England and of the Scottish Highlands for centuries. In these upland regions oats are the only cereal which will ripen in the cold wet climate. Oatcakes...were also of some importance in Wales and Ireland. They remain popular, and are now generally regarded as a Scottish specialty...Oatcakes had some importance as festive foods, especially at Beltane (1 May, and ancient Celtic festival) and Christmas."
---Oxford Companion to Food (p. 546)

"There is evidence that oats were quite qidely grown in Anglo-Saxon England, on athylle (on oat hill) is recorded in 779...The bishop of Worcester's oat land is mentioned in a boundary charter of 984. However, oats do not feature in dues and rents as wheat and barley do...oats may have been used for human consumption: while Pliny was not complimentary about oats he noted they were made into porridge in Germany. Giraldus was perhaps sensationalising matters when he commented that the whole population of Wales lived almost entirely on oats. In times of dearth they may have been utilized quite generally, but they could have been a staple crop in aras with damp, acid soils."
---A Second Handbook of Anglo-Saxon Food and Drink: Production and Distribution, Ann Hagen [Anglo-Saxon Books:Wilton UK] 1995 (p. 23)
[NOTE: This book contains much information about oats. Ask your librarian how to obtain a copy.]

"The word 'bannock' covers several different kinds of foods: generally it refers to griddle or girdle cakes made with oatmeal, barley meal, pease-meal or with flour, but there is the Selkirk Bannock...and the Pithcaithly Bannock...which are sweetened tea-breads or cakes. From the earliest years special kinds of bannocks were made for every Highland quarter day: on 1 February, the Bonnack Bride (St. Bride's bannock) was cooked to celebrate the first day of Spring; the Bonnach Bealtain (Beltane bannock) for the first day of summer, Bonnach Lunastain (Lammas bannock) for the first day of autumn and the Bonnach Samhtain (Hallomas bannock) for the first day of winter. Bannocks were baked for a child's birth (Cryin' Bannock), and there was a Teethin' Bannock baked with a ring in it which was later used as a teething ring, and when the bannock broke each person present got a small piece of it. There were special bannocks fired for St. Columba's Eve, for marriage and for Christmas. Each one was a variety of oatcake...some made with eggs, butter, cream and sugar. Today many of these customs have died out but the bannock remains in several forms. If using a griddle then it must be warmed up before starting to cook."
---Traditional Scottish Cookery, Theodora Fitzgibbon [Fontana Paperbacks:Suffolk UK] 1980 (p. 225)
[NOTE: This book contains recipes for Selkirk and Pithcaithly bannocks]

"Myths of oats have much in common with myths of wheat, barley, rye, corn, and other cereal grains. Grains generally were associated with fertility of the earth and soil, and served as symbols of the earth's renewal."
---Nectar and Ambrosia: An Encyclopedia of Food in World Mythology, Tamra Andrews [ABC-CLIO:Santa Barbara CA] 2000 (p. 161)

About oats in America

"Oats were introduced to North America by early European explorers including Captain Bartholomew Gosnold, who planted them on Elizabeth Island off the Massachusetts coast. The Dutch grew oats in New Netherlands by 1626, and they were cultivated in Virginia prior to 1648. Oats were generally grown throughout colonial America, mainly for animal feed, but Scottish, Dutch, and other immigrants used them in their traditional porridges, puddings, and baked goods. Hannah Glasse's Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747 and subsequent editions)...includes oats in recipes for haggis, flummery, and hasty and other puddings, as well as for cake. Similar recipes were published in America throught the nineteenth century. Other oat recipes published in the United States included Scotch burgoo, an oatmeal hasty pudding in which the rolled oats were stirred into boiling water until the mixture thickened; gruel, which was a thinner porridge frequently identified as invalid food; and oatmeal blancmange. Baked goods included Scottish and English oaten cakes baked on a griddle, muffins made from cold cooked oatmeal, and bread and biscuits, for which the oatmeal was usually mixed with flour, because on its own, oatmeal or oat flour does not develop enough gluten to support rising bread. By the nineteenth century, grocer stores sold oat products in bulk...In 1877, rolled oats were developed and trademarked by Henry D. Seymour and William Heston, who had established the Quaker Mill Company. The product was baked in cardboard boxes...In 1901, the Quaker Mill Company merged with other mills, and became the Quaker Oats Company. Directions for cooking oatmeal were printed on the outside of the Quaker box. These recipes, in turn, were reprinted in community and other cookbooks, and oatmeal became more popular as a cooking ingredient. During the twentieth century many new oatmeal recipes were published, including ones for soup, cakes, cookies, wafers, drops, maracroons, quick breads and yeast breads, muffins, scones, and pancakes. Oatmeal was also used as a filler and binder in meatloaf..."
---Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Andrew F. Smith editor [Oxford University Press:New York] 2004, Volume 2 (p. 208)

"Rolled otats, or Oatflakes were developed in America by the Quaker Oat Company in 1877 and are made by steaming and rolling pinhead oatmeal."
---Oxford Companion to Food, Alan davidson [Oxford University Press:Oxford] 1999 (p. 547)

Oats as American health food

So? Where do oatmeal cookies (as we know them today) fit in?
"The first recipe I've found for oatmeal cookies appears in the original Boston Cooking-School Cook Book by Fannie Merritt Farmer (1896). Nineteenth century, to be sure. But just barely (in fact they were barely oatmeal cookies, containing only half a cup). I include oatmeal cookies here because they did not begin routinely appearing in cookbooks until the twentieth century."
---The American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century, Jean Anderson [Clarkson Potter:New York] 1997 (p. 482)
Ms. Farmer's 1896 oatmeal cookie recipe.

Dani Shaneyfelt, historical interpreter at Stuhr Museum [Grand Island, NE], sent us two additional period recipes. Both employ substantial amounts of oatmeal.

[1884]
Oatmeal Cookies

1 cup lard.
1 cup brown sugar.
1 cup molasses.
2 cups fine oatmeal.
1 teaspoon soda, dissolved in
2/3 cup boiling water.
1 teaspoon salt.
1 tablespoon ginger.
White flour for stiff batter.
Drop in little pats in a greased dripping-pan."
---Mrs. Owen’s Cook Book and Useful Household Hints, Mrs. Frances E. Owens, Revised and Illustrated [Owens Publishing Company:Chicago] Copyright 1884-1885 (p. 265)

[1898]
Oatmeal Cookies.

Three cups oatmeal (fine), 1/2 cup sugar, 1 cup water, 1/3 cup lard, 1/3 cup butter, 1/2 tea-spoon salt, 1/2 tea-spoon soda; make thick with white flour, roll very thin and bake a nice brown.
Theresa J. Cochran, Alternate Lady Manager World’s Fair, Groton, Vermont."
The Home Queen Cook Book, [Fort Dearborn Publishing:Chicago] 1898 (p. 367)

[1947]
"One-Bowl Method"

"On our recent tour through midwest food companies, we stopped at the Quaker Oats test kitchen in Chicago to find Mrs. Reidun Kober, its director, eager to report a new system of mixing cookies that has been developed there. It is a one-bowl method, and any woman who has made one-bowl cakes knows why Mrs. Kober and her staff wanted to adapt this type of recipe to cookies. The system eliminates the separate creaming of shortening, which is so time-consuming, and cuts the conventional mixing time for cookies from ten (or more) minutes to two. All the ingredients are emptied into a bowl, beaten for a couple of minutes--and, presto, the batter is ready for baking. Curtailing time does not sacrifice flavor, either. Mrs. Kobler reminded us of the high protein content of oatmeal (the highest of any cereal) and its low cost. In baking, it helps to supplant wheat flour, and wheat is needed badly abroad. So on every count--convenience, cost, food conservation and nutrition--this recipe for eatmeal cookies should appeal to cooks.

Into one bowl, sift 1 cup sifted enriched flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add 3/4 cup soft fat, 1 cup brown sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon vanilla and about 1/6 cup of milk. (Fat must be soft--that is, at room temperature). Beat till smooth or about two minutes. On an electric mixer use medium speed. The fold in with a spoon another 1/6 cup of milk and 3 cups rolled oats (uncooked). Variations: If desired, add a 7-ounce package semi-sweet chocolate pieces or 1 cup chopped dates or 1 cup coconut. Drop from a teaspoon onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a moderate oven (375 degrees F.) for twelve to fifteen minutes. Yield: four dozen."
---"News of Food: One-Bowl Method of Mixing Cookies Cuts Time for Task to Two Minutes," Jane Nickerson, New York Times, November 17, 1947 (p. 25)


Oreos

According to the records of the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Oreo brand cookies were introduced to the American public by the National Biscuit Company (now Nabisco) on March 6, 1912. It is registration #0093009. Nabisco is now owned by Kraft Foods.

"On April 2, 1912, the company's [National Biscuit Company] operations department announced to its managers and sales agents that it was preparing "to offer to the trade...three entirely new varieties of the highest class biscuit in a new style...The three varieties of biscuit...will be known as the Trio. "The varieties comprising the 'Trio' are as follows, namely: Oreo Biscuit--two beautifully embossed chocolate-flavored wafers with a rich cream fillling at 30 cents per pound. Mother Goose Biscuit--a rich, high class biscuit bearing impressions of the Mother Goose legends at 20 cents per pound. Veronese Biscuit--delicious, hard sweet biscuit of beautiful design and high quality at 20 cents per pound. This Trio is an exciting innovation, and we are quite sure it will immediately appeal to public favor...

...two members of the trio most lavishy promoted in the inital announcement have since disappeared. But the third, Oreo, was evidently just the kind of cookie the American consuming public wanted. Somewhat similar to a previous product named "Bouquet," the Oreo consisted of two firm chocolate cookies with rich vanilla frosting in the middle. The first Oreos were slightly larger than today's product, but always round. Within a short time Oreo, which resembled an English biscuit, became a fantastically good seller among NBC sweet goods...The origin of the name is not really known, although one possibility is that it came from the Greek oreo, meaning hill or mountain. Supposedly, either in testing or when the product was first produced, it was shaped like a baseball mound or hill-hence, an oreo. This has a certain validity in view of A.W. Green's [company executive] tendency toward classical names. Oreo was officially registered in 1913 as "Oreo Biscuit." By 1921 it had become "Oreo Sandwich" and by 1948 "Oreo Creme Sandwich." Variations have been tried--a vanilla Oreo, a single-cracker Oreo, and in the 1920s a lemon-filled Oreo was introduced. The size has undergone changes, too. Today's is about midway between the largest and the smallest. Through all shifts in public preferences, Oreo has remained one of the nation's most consistent favorites. As frequently happens with popular products, there are people who fancy that they contributed to is creation. An Oreo admirer once wrote to the company "During the early 1920's you have a contest offering a cash reward for a suitable name for this particular cookie. I entered this contest and submitted the name Oreo. Time passed, I learned or heard nothing concerning the matter, so gave it no further thought until this past Sunday night....If you will kindly check your records concerning the said contest, I am sure that in them you will find I am the one who submitted the trade name, Oreo." The company answered, "We think that you must be confused about the origin of the trademark Oreo. It was not originated as the result of a contest in the early 1920's or at any other time. It was originated by our advertising department, and first used on March 6, 1912."
---Out of the Cracker Barrel: From Animal Crackers to ZuZu's, William Cahn [Simon & Schuster:New York] 1969 (p. 142-4)

"Oreo. A trademark name...for a cookie composed of two thin chocolate cookies enclosing a white creme filling. The name...was apparently made up by the company. It has been suggested that the name may derive from the French word for gold "or" because the original package had the product name in gold. Another guess is that the word is from the Greek for 'mountain'...The first Oreos were sold to a grocer named S. C. Thuesen on March 6, 1912...Oreos were not, however, the first cookie of this type: "Hydrox Cookies" had been on the market since January 1, 1910, but Oreos have been far more successful."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 225)

About the cookie's design: "The ornamental pattern of the wafer itself...is Oreo's visual signature. Stampled out by brass rollers passing over sheets of chocolate dough, the pattern consists of a series of four-leaf clovers around the word "OREO," which is set within the traditional trademark of Nabisco, its manufacturer--that trademark being a horizontal oval with what looks like a television antenna extending up from it. Around the clovers, a broken line forms a broken circle. Beyond that, the outer edge of the cookie is slighly ridged, serving both as a visual frame for the ornamental center and as a means of grasping the cookie with comparative ease. As a design, it is pleasantly dowdy, like the wallpaper one might find in an old country house, or the wall stenciling that was common in the early years of this century, when the Oreo was created. Although spokesmen for Nabisco say there have been no significant changes in the cookie (except for its size), magazine advertisements from past uyears show that this has not been the case. In the 1950's, for example, the word "OREO" was set in a circle, which was surrounded by what appears to be a garland of petals. It was a more graceful look a bit closer in appearance to that of the Oere's erstwhile competitor, the Hydrox brand produced by Sunshine Bakeries. Hydrox is the Pepsi to the Oreo's Coca Cola; it acutally predates Oreo, though it is less popular. The Hydrox's ornamental pattern is at once cruder and more delicate than the Oreo's; the ridges around the edge are longer and deeper, bu the center comprises stamped-out flowers, a design more intricate than the Oreo pattern."
---"Machine Imagery, Homey Decoration," Paul Goldberger, New York Times, June 4, 1986 (p. C6)

How much have Oreos cost through the years?

Where is "Oreo Way?"
"Q. Why is 15th Street at Ninth Avenue now called Oreo Way?
A. Because that is the birthplace of America's favorite cookie. IN 1898 several baking companies merged to form the National Biscuit Company, Nabisco, and opened a large industrial bakery on Ninght Avenue between 15th and 16th Streets at the Chelsea Market Building...In 1912, Nabisco had an idea for a new cookie: two chocolate disks with sugar icing in the middle. That year Nabisco sold its first package of Oreos to a store in Hoboken, N.J. Since then Nabisco has made more than 450 billion Oreo cookies. It was the best-selling cookie of the 20th century. Last year Americans dunked, twisted and chomped nearly 12 billion Oreos. Nabisco moved out of the Chelsea Market building in 1958 and now produces Oreos in bakeries around the world."
---"450 Billion Oreos to Go," Ed Boland Jr., New York Times, July 28, 2002 (p. CY2)

Recommended reading:
"Oreos," Encyclopedia of Consumer Brands, Volume 1: Consumables, Janice Jorgensen (editor) [St. James Press:Detroit] 1994 (p. 425-427)


Peanut butter cookies

Small cakes composed of nuts, dried fruits, and spices were prepared by ancient cooks. These early cakes were very different from what we eat today. They were more bread-like and sweetened with honey. The Romans are usually credited with spreading such recipes throughout Europe. Medieval bakers prefered white sugar and perfected gingerbread, fruitcake and a host of related sweetly spiced recipes, many with nuts. Northern European bakers specialized in cookies. When the Dutch arrived in the New World in the 17th century, they brought their cookie recipes with them. Peanuts are a "New World" food. About peanuts & peanut butter.

We checked dozens of early 20th century American cookbooks and found peanut cookies recipes were quite common. These, however, called for crushed/chopped peanuts as an ingredient. It is not until the early 1930s that we find peanut butter listed as an ingredient in cookies. The 1933 edition of Pillsbury's Balanced Recipes contains a recipe for Peanut Butter Balls which instructs the cook to roll the dough into balls and press them down with the tines of a fork. This practice is still common in America today. Recipe here:

"Peanut Butter Balls
Recipe makes 5 dozen small cookies
Temperature: 375 F.
1 cup Pillsbury's Best Flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup peanut butter
1/4 cup shortening
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Grated rind of 1 lemon

1. Sift flour, salt and soda together.
2. Cream peanut butter and shortening; add sugar gradually.
3. Add unbeaten egg, lemon juice and grated rind; beat well.
4. Stir in dry ingredients. Chill dough thoroughly.
5. Form dough into small balls; place on greased baking sheet; press each cooky once with tines of a fork to flatten. Bake in moderate oven."
---Balanced Reicpes, Mary Ellis Ames [Pillsbury Flour Mills Company:Minneapolis] 1933 (recipe 76)

Related food? peanut butter & jelly sandwiches.

Why the classic criss-cross pattern?
1930s recipes instructed cooks to create criss-cross pattern on cookie with the tines of a fork. They did not specify why. Neither do subsequent cookbooks. Craig Claiborne's observations on the subject are quite enlightening:

"It has been pointed out, on occasion, that you never can tell what on earth interests readers of this column and to what degree. With tongue in cheek, we stated recently that we had a file of letters marked Unanswered and Unanswerable. We quoted one of those letters, not fictional, in which someone aked if we could explain why peanut butter cookies were creased with a fork before baking. We didn't really expect an answer to that, but replies we got. One reader wrote as follows: The cookies are creased with a fork, she informed us, to make them crisper. "One of my sons," she continued, "once answered this technique and baked one pan of cookies plain, the other with the tradtional fork creases on top. The plain peanut butter cookies did not taste as good and seemed a bit soggy in the center. "Since the peanut butter cookie dough is quite rich, I think the fork creases expose just enough dough to add a bit more crispy crust for better results. Another reader offered this conjecture: "Most cookies dropped by rounded teaspoonsful will flatten in the oven and bake evenly. Is there something in peanut butter cookie dough that prevents it from flattening out by itself? The peanut butter, for example? Pressing the dollop with the tines of a fork would assure the dough flattens properly and, therefore, bakes evenly." But the explanation about pressing those cookies that we like best came from Sylvia Lavietes of New Haven, Conn.: "Your column today contained an inquiry regarding peanut butter cookies. Well, a stupid question calls for a stupid answer. Peanut butter cookies are crisscrossed in order to make it possible to distinguish them from chocolate chip cookies in the cookie jar."
---"The Fork and the Cookie," Craig Claiborne, New York Times, April 2, 1979 (p. A17)


Pizzelle

Food historians confirm crisp waffle-type cookies have ancient roots. These fancy holiday batter recipes were embraced by many cultures and cuisines: Italian pizzelles, Dutch wafres (waffles), French gaufrettes, Norwegian krumkake, etc. The primary difference between recipes is thickness of the batter and design of product. Who made the first food of this type? We will probably never know. History does not typically record the "invention" of simple foods. We do know, however, that pizzelles and their fancy European cousins were very popular in the Middle Ages and played significant roles in the Christian calendar, most notably Lent. Some of these foods later evolved into street fare. Fancy shapes, different sizes, decorative patterns, and thickness variations are achieved by special cooking apparatus called wafer (waffle, gauffre) irons. About waffles.

About pizzelle

"Pizzelle. A large round cookie made from a rich batter of eggs, sugar, butter, flour, and vanilla, baked on a specially designed pizzelle iron, which looks like a waffle iron. The intricately carved sufaces of the pizzelle iron imprint designs onto the cookie as it cooks. Pizzelle become crisp as they cool. While still warm, they can be rolled into a cone shape, then filled with whipped cream when cool...The Scandinavian version of pizzelle is krumkake, baed on a similar iron that has the traditional engraved scroll designs."
---The International Dictionary of Desserts, Pastries, and Confections, Carol Bloom [Hearst:New York] 1995 (p. 236)

"Pizzelles, a centuries-old specialty of the Tuscan town of Montecatini, are a standard at most Italian-American bakeries and espresso shops."
---"Pizzelles bring Tuscan Elegance to the Cookie Tray," Annette Gouch, Chicago Tribune, December 13, 2000 (p. 9)

"One of the many delicacies we continue to enjoy preparing are pizzelle, crisp embossed cookies from Italy that are baked one at a time in a patterned cookie iron. The word pizzelle, a derivative of "pizza," means "small cakes." If your grandmother was Scandinavian or French, you may know this cookie by such names as krumkake or gaufrette. These sweet, lacy cookies are made from a wafflelike batter that is spooned into an iron mold with two long handles. The resulting cookie is similar to waffle ice cream cones before they are rolled into shape. In fact, pizzelle come out of the iron soft and flexible, and you can roll them into decorative cones or cannoli shells. Pizzelle are usually flavored with anise or lemon, but you can add ground cinnammon, orange rind or almond extract. Pizzelle offer a good flavor and textured contrast to fruit sorbets, ice creams and custards. Pizzelle are perfect with afternoon tea or as a light dessert, spread with creamed honey. Although pizzelle are popular all over Italy, in the south, pizzelle irons are traditional wedding gifts from village blacksmiths. They come inscribed with the wedding date and the newlyweds' initials. Subsequent celebrations call for bringing out the pizzelle iron."
---"Italy's Traditional Pizzelle Cookes Get an Update," Jolene Worthington, Chicago Tribune, January 6, 1994 (p. 2)

Related food? Ice cream cones!


Scottish shortbread

The history of Scottish shortbread is interconnected with the history of dairy farming and butter making in the British Isles during the Medieval Ages:

"As Jean-Louis Flandrin points out, butter consumption is a natural development in regions suitable for cattle-breeding. In such places, popular taste and the local economy had gone right over to butter as a cooking fat within 400 years....Flandrin is speaking about the butter-eating areas of Europe in the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries..."
---History of Food, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat [Barnes & Noble Books:New York] 1992 (p. 121)
[pages 120-124 present the history of butter, including its symbolism]

"Butter was the other principal milk dish [cheese being the other]. The manner of making is had changed little since Pliny's day...In other branches of cookery butter was an enricher, the accompaniment of cheese in herbolaces or with macaroni; of eggs, milk and sugar in the filling for a flathon; of plain or fancy breads in pain perdu or rastons. For short pastry and cakes, it was at first an alternative to fresh cream, but eventually superseded it, for butter had a more highly concentrated fat content, and was more easily stored...Nevertheless butter appeared in a relatively small proportion of the dishes in medieval recipe books, which were written mainly for and by the cooks of the nobility. It was only in Tudor times that an emerging middle class, which did not despise bu