Interpreting & adapting historic
recipes
Cooking the *real stuff* from original recipes sounds easy, but it's not...even if you're lucky
enough to have access to ancient roasting pits, colonial beehive ovens, conestoga kitchens and
fireless cookers. What did the colonial housewife mean by when she wrote in her recipe "butter
the size of an egg?" Exactly how hot was a "hot oven?" How did the Virgina housewife know
when her hams were finished smoking? Was the Cincinnati housewife who cooked in the 1920s
more likely to use single or double acting baking powder? This is complicated stuff. Historic hen's
eggs were generally smaller than the ones we have today; hot ovens & smoked hams were a
matter of experience and the preference/propensity for using *new-fangled* food items were (as
they are today) a matter of money, tradition, and personal taste.
Truth is, most old recipes were not much more than shopping lists with cursory prep notes.
Detailed instructions were not considered necessary because it was understood that whoever
cooked the food already knew the basics. Measurements are time/country/food specific. Did
you know some culinary historians say we Americans measure with objects (as opposed to
weight) because of our pioneer heritage? Conestoga wagons had plenty of cups & spoons but
very few reliable scales.
Scientific cven temperatures and exact measurements had no place in pre-industrial
kitchens...which explains why food was commonly *served forth* when it was *done.* Standard
measurements and detailed cooking instructions were a by-product of the Industrial Revolution
and are commonly attributed to Fannie M. Farmer, principal of the Boston Cooking School.
There is no single place to obtain all of the historic conversions necessary to interpret & recreate
[redact] original historic recipes in your kitchen. This does not mean your task is impossible.
Quite the contrary.
Many food historians agree on these points:
- If you are working with an original text look for notes regarding measurements used
---guidelines for the new cook, conversion charts or handwritten notes
- Check current & adapted cookbooks for similar recipes
---this will help interpret the *hot* oven (475 degrees) & provide modern measurements
- Use common sense--if the recipe seems to call for too much salt, cut it down
---maybe the salt used in ancient times was much more concentrated than today?
- Ask for help! Many living history
museums have staff who specialize in foodways (recreating original recipes, cooking in old
kitchens & cultivating heirloom gardens). The trick is to find the right person. Be sure to check
the museum's description to get the right location and time period (Old Sturbridge Village
recreates inland Massachusetts in 1830s) BEFORE you contact the foodways people.
- No matter how close you come to the original recipe the end-product will probably taste
different from what people ate long ago. Even if you cook it in the *traditional* way. Why?
Because the food we buy today is different from the food they used back then.
General guidelines
Conversion tables & adaptation notes
- Ancient Rome--A Taste of Ancient Rome, Iliaria Gozzini Giacosa (p. 211)
- Medieval Europe--Take a Thousand Eggs or More, Volume 2, Cindy Renfrow (p.
600-606)
- Colonial cookery--The Virginia House-wife, Mary Randolph [with historical notes and
commentaries by Karen Hess] (p. 297-299)
- Pioneer/cowboy cooking--Chuck Wagon Cookin', Stella Hughes (p.103)
- Late 19th century America--Savory Suppers and Fashionable Feasts: Dining in Victorian
America, Susan Williams (p. 205)
- Victorian baking--Victorian Cakes, Caroline B. King [Introduction & notes by Jill
Gardner] (p. 201-208)
- 19th century Russia--Classic Russian Cooking: Elena Molohovets' A Gift to Young
Housewives, Joyce Toomre [translator] (p. 69-73; 96-97)
- 1930s--Cape Cod Cook Book, Susanne Cary Gruver (p. 3-4)
Libraries & Museums
Food Museums, international
directory
Culinary Institute of America Conrad N. Hilton Library
Johnson & Wales University Culinary Archives &
Museum
Los Angeles Public Library
Menu collection--searchable by keyword, restaurant, cuisine & date
Michigan State University Feeding
America:
The Historic American Cookbook Project
New York Public Library Culinary
History: A Research Guide, collection--includes menus
Rutgers University, Sinclair Jerseyana Cookbooks
Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Culinary
Holdings-- repository for MFK Fisher & Julia Child
University of Iowa, Szathmary Culinary Arts
Collection
University of Michigan, Janice Bluestein Longone
Culinary Archive
University of Pennsylvania, Aresty Collection of
Rare Books on the Culinary Arts
Virginia Tech, Peacock-Harper Culinary History Collection, school also offers scholarships to study culianry history
Advanced degrees & specialized learning
Adelaide University,
Australia, with Le Cordon Bleu, Master of Arts, Gastronomy
Boston
University
Metropolitan College, Master of Liberal Arts, Gastronomy
Insitute of Culinary Education (ICE), Center for Food Media (NYC)
...food styling, cookbook writing, food history, restaurant reviewing &c.
New School, Food Studies (NYC)
New
York University, Master of Arts, Food Studies
Hearth cooking classes
Food writing courses:
French Culinary Institute (NYC)
Institute for Culinary Education (NYC)